Fwd Fuse Skin hard-to-reach rivets

I know this is probably covered somewhere in this forum but I can't find it.

I am riveting the fwd fuse skin to the fwd and aft-center fuse bulkheads. (Steps 1 & 3 on pg. 28-14). There are 8 rivets that are VERY HARD or IMPOSSIBLE to get a bucking bar on. They are located under or nearly under the seat rail support brackets. Even if I do get a bar on the shop end, I am afraid I will munge up the rivet badly.

Any suggestions on technique? Blind rivets?

Various tungsten bucking bars might be of use:
http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Tungsten-Bucking-Bar/productinfo/BBT88/#.WG1IdhsrKUk
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/buckingbar12-04864.php
http://www.tungstenbuckingbars.com/prices.html

I waited until my third RV to use one of these - wish I had not waited too long. The one from ACS has proven to be very valuable.

I have a couple of $1 fly-market bars that are 3/8" thin with angled foots. They don't work as well as a standard bar - until you need it. Then I reflect on my $1 steal.

Carl

Tungsten Bars of Crow Foot Bar

Like Carl said, tungsten is great. A crow foot bar will also work, I think. I used tungsten.

Fun times

These were a two man job for me for sure.

I've got the "standard" tungsten bucking bar and there was no way it would work...but if you use a flat blade screwdriver or a chisel that's been smoothed, you can use the tungsten for mass and the flat blade acts as the bucking bar. Test on scrap first because it's not easy, but I've had to use this technique on a few rivets. Yes you have more coming.

Good luck

I ended up pulling a 1" x 1'2" x about 12" piece of bar stock out of my steel rack and grinding a bar to fit around the various obstructions.
I have several "special" purpose bucking bars made with a $15 HF grinder and a piece of scrap steel.