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  #11  
Old 08-12-2021, 12:30 PM
TS Flightlines TS Flightlines is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ridgeland, SC
Posts: 2,930
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HI Bob--
Flare the tubing as normal. For short runs before the bend, I trim the sleeve so it just exits the nut. OR you can do this----do the same procedure with a standard sleeve and reverse the bending operation---instead of having the nut and sleeve against the bender fulcrum, put the long side of the tube there, and bend. Gee---3003 tubing is soft enough that you can bend it with your fingers.

YES I have a couple of modified hand benders that I made that work well, but you can do the same thing with out them.

Tom
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2021, 12:35 PM
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LettersFromFlyoverCountry LettersFromFlyoverCountry is offline
 
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Unfortunately I'm going broke on tubing. I can't get the start of the bend in the proper location at the tank end even when bending from the other side because the sleeve interferes. That messes up the dimensions at the other end. If you're off even by a fraction, you're screwed.

It's true I can bend it with my fingers, but not at the points called out.
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  #13  
Old 08-13-2021, 05:12 PM
N8DAV8R N8DAV8R is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Salida, Ca
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I just completed the fuel lines on my project. I had ordered extra tubing ahead of time just in case, and it turns out that I won't need it. It should be here by now, but isn't. I even ordered extra flare fittings just to have around the hangar. I just like having extra stuff around.

That line took me a few tries but I'm confident now I could get another one made up since it's fresh experience for me.

If you don't have this solved by the time my shipment shows up I'll be glad to make one up and send it your way. If that's where we end up, just send me replacement nuts and sleeves.
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  #14  
Old 08-13-2021, 05:21 PM
FlyingDiver FlyingDiver is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Southwest Florida
Posts: 116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LettersFromFlyoverCountry View Post
OK. I give up. I'll pay someone to make this line for me. Anyone?
https://aircraftspecialty.com/rv12iS.html
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  #15  
Old 08-13-2021, 05:56 PM
David Grady David Grady is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bloomington, MN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LettersFromFlyoverCountry View Post
Unfortunately I'm going broke on tubing. I can't get the start of the bend in the proper location at the tank end even when bending from the other side because the sleeve interferes. That messes up the dimensions at the other end. If you're off even by a fraction, you're screwed.

It's true I can bend it with my fingers, but not at the points called out.
Hi Bob - I'd like to attach 3 photos of how I did this without cutting or modifying the sleeve, but I haven't yet done the photo link thing.

I think I may have run into the same problem, if so, just cut a short piece (6" or so) of 1/2" copper plumbing line, secure it vertically in your bench vise, insert the aluminum tube with the sleeve installed against the flair and SLOWLY and carefully bend to shape. Try a combination of using the palm of your hand to make incremental bends, or try very small bends using a grip further out on the tube (longer lever gives more force)- when you think you're getting close, just slip the tube out of the copper to check it against the plans. Rinse and repeat until you have the right angle.

A few important tips: 1) My photos would show Sharpie marks on the aluminum tube delineating the start and the end of bend radius. 2) I also put a few small slivers of pine at the inside edge of the copper tube to ensure no creases to the aluminum tube.

If you are feeling you want to hand it off, send me a PM, drive over and we'll git er done. I'm just a few miles East of KFCM.
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2021, 09:48 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Something Iíve done to help make a bend close to the flare is this: flare the tubing, install the sleeve and B-nut, then attach a spare fitting, preferably a straight bulkhead fitting because itís a little longer. Make the B-nut tight. Then use the bulkhead fitting in your hand to provide leverage to make the bend by hand close to the B-nut and sleeve. It may work for you too.
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  #17  
Old 08-13-2021, 10:18 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
Something Iíve done to help make a bend close to the flare is this: flare the tubing, install the sleeve and B-nut, then attach a spare fitting, preferably a straight bulkhead fitting because itís a little longer. Make the B-nut tight. Then use the bulkhead fitting in your hand to provide leverage to make the bend by hand close to the B-nut and sleeve. It may work for you too.
Very good tip.
I have done this many times.
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  #18  
Old 11-07-2021, 04:16 PM
jetset44 jetset44 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kirkland
Posts: 9
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I'm at this same stage and trying to figure out how to make this part. Lots of great tips above, so I'll start by trying the hand bending technique (with a bulkhead fitting attached to the flare for leverage).

But first I have a simple newbie question: is it really important to have this bend so close to the flare? Since there seems to be plenty of room in the center fuselage channel where this line runs, why can't you just move the bend downline another ~3/4" to make bending and flaring easy (i.e., lengthen the straight part of the line at the tank), and then adjust the subsequent angle as necessary to get the line to mate up properly with the drain valve fitting at the back? Am I missing something?

Steve
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2021, 04:50 PM
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bjdecker bjdecker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Georgetown, TX
Posts: 957
Default Sequence...

Collars and bends are incompatible. You can slide the nut on without fear however...

1. Cut tube longer than necessary (1/2" or so.)
2. Bend tube at the right places
3. Cut tube to correct length
4. Install nut
5. Install collar
6. Flare tube end

YMMV of course.

This is what worked for me getting the Andair FS7 valve to fit in the center section of the RV-7 along with all the Airflow performance pump plumbing.
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  #20  
Old 11-07-2021, 05:27 PM
jetset44 jetset44 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kirkland
Posts: 9
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Thanks, Brian. That method works if there's enough tube length remaining for the flaring tool, but in this particular case there isn't. My Roto-Flare requires 3/4" of tubing to fit into and past the die, and after you add the 1/2" collar behind it the minimum tube length you can flare is 1.25". But the plans here call for a bend ending just 3/4" from the flare.

That's why I asked if I can just move that bend a bit and then adjust the angles after that to get the tube to still mate up properly at the other end. Just seems easier than struggling with this one difficult bend.

I just tried some of the tips above on some scrap and am still struggling with this. Bending the tube by hand works but leaves the tube flattened and the curve uneven. Using a tube bender (both with the flared end/coupler under the tube holder and the long end under the tube holder) ended up damaging the flare due to the pressure applied on the edges. Perhaps with a bit more practice I can get the hand bending option to work acceptably...
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