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  #1  
Old 11-26-2013, 03:36 PM
Michael Burbidge Michael Burbidge is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Sammamish, WA
Posts: 677
Default Securing b-nut hex screw carb heat cable...

My carb heat came with a b-nut and related hardware. This is use to attach the bowden cable to the carb heat actuator arm. The cable is secured with the hex compression screw. What keeps the compression screw from vibrating out? Should this be torqued to a specific value? Should I use blue loctite? Here's a picture of the hardware I'm referring to.



Thanks,
Michael-
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  #2  
Old 11-26-2013, 03:46 PM
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LifeofReiley LifeofReiley is offline
 
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Location: Round Rock, TX
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Default

Yup... Blue Loctite will work and lock it down good and tight. I would even put a drop over the end when done.
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  #3  
Old 11-26-2013, 04:57 PM
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Vlad Vlad is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
Posts: 8,315
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Michael,
If you plan to fly a lot you might look into a modification of stock setup. When I was building a lot of flying RVators were complaining about excessive wear and even failure of stock setup.

Bob Axsom had a very good idea on his RV6A and I copied it. Really simple.





After almost 1000 hours the cable and arm are still intact but hinge and carb heat door worn beyond recognition. If I listened I would put baffle material instead of hinge early in my build.






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  #4  
Old 11-26-2013, 05:24 PM
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Steve Melton Steve Melton is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 3,107
Default carb heat cable attach

mine seems to be working well. secure the nut about half way on the lever. extend the wire thru the nut and then bend the end of the wire so that it contacts the upper fwd edge of the end of the lever and puts load on the nut to keep it from vibrating when in the full open position. secure the cable two places on throttle plate with stand-offs. this will allow for positive forward load on the cable wire so that when you push to the open position you will have some spring back to know it is fully open and it will not vibrate.
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Last edited by Steve Melton : 11-26-2013 at 05:48 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-17-2021, 05:14 PM
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dbegeman dbegeman is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Conifer, CO
Posts: 37
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Michael,
If you plan to fly a lot you might look into a modification of stock setup. When I was building a lot of flying RVators were complaining about excessive wear and even failure of stock setup.

Bob Axsom had a very good idea on his RV6A and I copied it. Really simple.





After almost 1000 hours the cable and arm are still intact but hinge and carb heat door worn beyond recognition. If I listened I would put baffle material instead of hinge early in my build.







Vlad,

Any chance you have a parts list for your mod?

Thanks,
Dan
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  #6  
Old 01-17-2021, 06:09 PM
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Vlad Vlad is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Utah
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbegeman View Post
Vlad,

Any chance you have a parts list for your mod?

Thanks,
Dan
I donít have the list Dan sorry. I am well passed 5K hours and need to rebuild it third time
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  #7  
Old 01-17-2021, 07:17 PM
JDeanda JDeanda is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Ventura, CA
Posts: 234
Default A Nifty Thingie

This might be an answer: https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catal...clickkey=47753
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  #8  
Old 01-17-2021, 07:50 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,443
Default rod end

Standard 1/4" shank 3/16" bore rod end bearing from Spruce. Many options least expensive is fine for that application
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  #9  
Old 01-17-2021, 07:52 PM
jrs14855 jrs14855 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lake Havasu City AZ
Posts: 2,443
Default rod end

1/4" x 28 male shank is a better description.
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