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Pneumatic Squeezer

rockwoodrv9

Well Known Member
Patron
I bought a pneumatic squeezer and used it for two days and it no longer works. It was a new but cheap model. I sent it back today. My question is if you were buying a squeezer today, what would you buy. I am leaning to the Numatx because of size. Any thoughts?

thanks, rockwood
 
I have a very old and classic CP that looks like it was first used by Rosie the Riveter herself. It works great and it's an easy find used on eBay and sometimes on here.

If I were buying now, I'd seriously consider the Hydro-Pneumatic Squeezer sold by Cleaveland. It looks superior to anything else available, and the reviews have been excellent. It was invented by an RV builder too.

--
Stephen
 
I found one on Craigslist. It has no markings on it, but it works well. It looks like one you might buy from any of the usual tool houses.
 
What brand or type?

I bought one from one of the tool companies, but it only worked for two days and about 20 rivets. I am looking for one that works well. Having to send it back and slow down progress is costing me time. Im sure I probably just got a bad one and the next would be fine, but I was wondering about experience with the Numax system. thanks
 
It's hard to beat Avery

I purchased my squeezer about 7 years ago from Avery tools. About a year in I had some problems and Bob Avery tuned it up at no charge. It has performed flawlessly since then. If you want a quality tool and excellent service, you can't beat the Avery squeezer.
 
Yes on Avery tools

I bought mine on EBay. After a few times using it, it just did not seem to work correctly. I sent it to Avery Tools and Bob rebuilt it. I think I still have less money in it compared to purchasing a new one.

He not only rebuilt it, but sent me some detailed instructions and talked to me on the phone about adjusting and using it. I don't believe you can find better service than you get from Avery tools.
 
Mine has an Avery label on it, is third or fourth hand, and I thought it had quit working, as it wouldn't squeeze #4's. I did some research here and found that if you adjust the holder too close, it won't squeeze the big rivets. There is a sweet spot in the adjustment , and it has to be fairly close to get maximum mechanical advantage. I backed off the holder a bit and voila! Still, it does hesitate a bit on the big rivets, and leaks air past the end gasket when actuated, so I'm thinking about sending it to Avery for a look-see while I'm waiting on my next kit.
 
Main Squeeze

I have both a pneumatic and Main Squeeze by Cleaveland. My pneumatic collected dust most of the time, while I used the Main Squeeze almost all the time. I would do that again, hands down, but don't know much about their new product.....hope that helps, Glenn
 
I am looking for one that works well. Having to send it back and slow down progress is costing me time. Im sure I probably just got a bad one and the next would be fine, but I was wondering about experience with the Numax system. thanks

Just to be clear, the one we sell at Cleaveland is the Numatx and we are the only one to sell this magnificent system.

We are working to roll in some features that customers are wanting. See the sneak peek on YouTube.

Our company was founded because we were tired of 'making due with what is available' and this like our Main Squeeze is an example of developing what the builder needs rather than just distributing commonly available product.


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Numatx

Just to be clear, the one we sell at Cleaveland is the Numatx and we are the only one to sell this magnificent system.

We are working to roll in some features that customers are wanting. See the sneak peek on YouTube.

Our company was founded because we were tired of 'making due with what is available' and this like our Main Squeeze is an example of developing what the builder needs rather than just distributing commonly available product.

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Thanks for the info. I have done quite a bit of research on the Numatx - the same one you sell and it looks very nice. If you figure in a foot switch on a "regular" pneumatic squeezer, the price is not that much different. The problem would be when you were done with your plane and the thought of selling the tools - it would be pretty hard to let it go! I have a friend who offered to let me use his pneumatic and if that doesn't work out, I will be ordering the Numatx from you guys. Everything I have ordered from Cleaveland Tools has been first rate. Thanks.
 
We are working to roll in some features that customers are wanting. See the sneak peek on YouTube....

The electric actuation would be nice as far as making the system light weight, but I don't think I'd want to give up the ability to "feather" the trigger. You could do that electrically, but I'd think the servo valve would be cost-prohibitive.:eek:
 
Phase 3

I have some ideas brewing for the feathering. That is why this box is so big. The feathering will cost about $50 more for hardware but will look exactly the same (if it works as planned???)
 
Maybe it is a matter of technique

I bought a pneumatic squeezer and used it for two days and it no longer works.

You have probably thought about this but, if you are using an air squeezer for the first time, are you sure you are using it correctly? Did it EVER work?

I felt the same about my CP type squeezer from Ishams when I first started using it but they asked me to check that I didn't have the dies set too close for the rivet length. That turned out to be the problem. I was more than two days trying to figure it out (won't say how long).

These squeezers only develop the full 3000 lbs or so of closing power in the last part of their stroke. Your instinct, if the squeezer doesn't seem to have enough grunt to set the rivet, is to close up the gap but this is wrong. The first thing to try is to open out the gap.

A squeezer with the capacity to set AD4 rivets needs to reduce the length of the rivet by 1.5 times diameter - 3/16ths, so it only needs enough power to deform the rivet during the last 3/16 of the stroke. If it encounters an obstacle (rivet) say 1/4 out, it may not be developing enough power at that point to deform it (still plenty to hurt your finger though, so watch out!), so it stops.

Getting the full required pressure (90psi usually) in the air line is another factor to check.

More experienced builders, please correct me if I am wrong here.
 
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You have probably thought about this but, if you are using an air squeezer for the first time, are you sure you are using it correctly? Did it EVER work?

I felt the same about my CP type squeezer from Ishams when I first started using it but they asked me to check that I didn't have the dies set too close for the rivet length. That turned out to be the problem. I was more than two days trying to figure it out (won't say how long).

These squeezers only develop the full 3000 lbs or so of closing power in the last part of their stroke. Your instinct, if the squeezer doesn't seem to have enough grunt to set the rivet, is to close up the gap but this is wrong. The first thing to try is to open out the gap.

A squeezer with the capacity to set AD4 rivets needs to reduce the length of the rivet by 1.5 times diameter - 3/16ths, so it only needs enough power to deform the rivet during the last 3/16 of the stroke. If it encounters an obstacle (rivet) say 1/4 out, it may not be developing enough power at that point to deform it (still plenty to hurt your finger though, so watch out!), so it stops.

Getting the full required pressure (90psi usually) in the air line is another factor to check.

More experienced builders, please correct me if I am wrong here.

Yet another reason to consider the HPRS system, which produces maximum pressure over the entire stroke
 
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