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Installing Spring Loaded doors in wheel pants

Saville

Saville

Well Known Member
Ok so I'm ready for my next little project and I have a few questions.

I want to install spring loaded doors in the wheel pants so that I do not have to remove the after section just to top off the air. I bought the

CAMLOC ACCESS DOORS FOR WHEEL (KM713-16-064)

from Aircraft Spruce. They are 1" in diameter.

I believe I have Sam James wheel pants.

This picture shows the options:



The red arrow points to where the axle is. I can either install the door behind it on the after section (blue arrow) or in front on the forward section (green arrow).

My questions are:

1) If I choose the blue arrow, will a 1" hole just about centered where the point of the arrow is compromise the strength of the wheel pants section?

2) The inside of the wheel pant is pretty grimy. I need to clean it first and then scruff the fiberglass. What do you recommend for cleaning off the grime on the inside of the wheel pants?

Thanks!
 
I had good luck using Dawn dish soap and hot water for cleaning inside my wheel pants. And the rest of the fuselage, for that matter.
 
I placed mine on the green arrow area and all works fine. Make sure the opening is large enough to perform the required task. To small and all the work is worthless! The blue location should not pose a problem structurally, as long as you back the narrow seemed area properly. Also make sure the door opens from the back and springs forward. Good luck.
 
Dont forget to put a visible paint mark on the tire when the valve is aligned with the hole. Without it, the flap doors are pretty much useless.
 
Will they fit in a dish washer? If so, that's probably the best way to really clean them. I used ours to clean every part that would fit, prior to alodine or priming. Dishwasher soap is amazing at cutting grease and grime (duh...). This wasn't my original idea; I heard somewhere about engine rebuilders using them to clean cylinders, etc. Might be worthwhile to monitor the water temp, since they are fiberglass, but it won't go over ~200 degrees, in any case. What temp will your paint withstand without actual damage?

If you think you can measure the drag of the door ( :) ), the farther aft you can go the less it should disrupt flow. If you put it in an area where the cross section is still growing, it will trip any boundary layer that's left at that point.

The point about marking the tire is a good one. If you can position the hole low enough to see the mark while the valve is aligned with the hole, you'll find it is a lot quicker to get the valve aligned with the hole. At least it has for me on my -4 (old style one piece pants).
EDIT: I just realized what Bill meant; the mark doesn't have to align with the valve itself. But if it does, it will still make it a bit easier.

Charlie
 
rv7charlie said:
Will they fit in a dish washer? If so, that's probably the best way to really clean them. I used ours to clean every part that would fit, prior to alodine or priming. Dishwasher soap is amazing at cutting grease and grime (duh...). This wasn't my original idea; I heard somewhere about engine rebuilders using them to clean cylinders, etc. Might be worthwhile to monitor the water temp, since they are fiberglass, but it won't go over ~200 degrees, in any case. What temp will your paint withstand without actual damage?

If you think you can measure the drag of the door ( :) ), the farther aft you can go the less it should disrupt flow. If you put it in an area where the cross section is still growing, it will trip any boundary layer that's left at that point.

The point about marking the tire is a good one. If you can position the hole low enough to see the mark while the valve is aligned with the hole, you'll find it is a lot quicker to get the valve aligned with the hole. At least it has for me on my -4 (old style one piece pants).
EDIT: I just realized what Bill meant; the mark doesn't have to align with the valve itself. But if it does, it will still make it a bit easier.

Charlie
Click to expand...

I think what you do with the mark is place a mark on the tire such that when the mark is at the 6 o'clock position (where you can see it) the valve stem is lined up at the door.
 
Kyle Boatright said:
If you want spring loaded doors, continue down that path.

An easier path is the snap plugs you can buy at your local hardware store. All you do is drill the appropriate hole, then snap the matching plug in and out as necessary.

Here's the 3/4" size. 1" is better.

http://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-1043B..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=149EPR4QXAMQH5KN635B
Click to expand...

You know.......I like this idea. Infinitely simpler. No riveting nor fiberglassing to do. Unless the hole edges need to be beefed up to withstand the insertion/removal of the plug. No worrying about the door clearing the valve stem.
 
Saville said:
... Unless the hole edges need to be beefed up to withstand the insertion/removal of the plug. No worrying about the door clearing the valve stem.
Click to expand...

Mine (the hole edges) are unblemished after 15 years of use. They may collapse into a pile of dust tomorrow, but...
 
Got you covered.

I bought a few dozen black plastic snap covers from McMaster-Carr. (You can't just buy two!) You can clearly see them in the photo. Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll put several in the mail to you. A one inch hole is required and it helps to put a stripe on your tire at six o'clock when the valve is aligned with the hole. I suppose you could paint them if you want. I don't find them objectionable in black.

 
No plug in mine

I dont have a picture quite like Rons to show you (hard to get those shots!), but I have 1" holes on my -4 in same place as his..I just leave them open and dont fuss with a cap,plug or door. Im probably losing .001 mph, but thats OK. I have a white stripe on the tire which aligns vertically with the split line of the wheelpant when valve stem is aligned with the hole.
 
ronschreck said:
I bought a few dozen black plastic snap covers from McMaster-Carr. (You can't just buy two!) You can clearly see them in the photo. Send me a PM with your mailing address and I'll put several in the mail to you. A one inch hole is required and it helps to put a stripe on your tire at six o'clock when the valve is aligned with the hole. I suppose you could paint them if you want. I don't find them objectionable in black.

Click to expand...

PM sent.....and many thanks!
 
Cutting a 1" hole in fiberglass

Ok so since the snap cover idea and Ron's generosity have solved all of the initial problems, I have only one other question:

I was going to cut the hole with a hole saw run at low speed. I was going to first drill the center bit hole, then spin the hole saw by hand to start the teeth through the paint - trying to get a clean line. Then continue at low speed.

Is this the best way to go?

Is there a better way to cut the hole?

I could also score the paint with a set of dividers before I start with the hole saw.
 
the whole story?

1. I am surprised, but nobody has suggested a larger hole. obviously if you use it once a year, no big deal. I have 1", and it's not easy to align the valve cap the first time, especially to get the cap back ON.
and removing the air chuck is a bit of a struggle, as you are nearly face down, on your knees etc. ...and your spring door will be trying to KEEP the chuck in there! ;-) larger would be nice. Just sayin.
2. for drilling holes in fibreglas, I have good luck with abrasive, rather than teeth on bits...so you are grinding thru, then sanding to cleanup the edge, less 'shatter' of the fibres. You can likely get a masonry/tile holesaw with the grit cutting edge, or just one with finer teeth than for wood.

let's see some pics when you're done! good luck.
 
I propose another solution - buy Michelin AirStop tubes. I check my air pressure once a year during the big inspection, and it has always only dropped a couple of psi. No need for any holes in the wheel pants.
 
Kevin Horton said:
I propose another solution - buy Michelin AirStop tubes. I check my air pressure once a year during the big inspection, and it has always only dropped a couple of psi. No need for any holes in the wheel pants.
Click to expand...

Second that. Although I do check them a couple two or three times.
I went the "hole" route early. When I change to the airstops, the angle of the valve stem changed also. The earlier Vans supplied tubes had a slight return on valve stem. The airstops did not. It was enough that they no longer aligned well and getting the valve stem extension on was a PIA.
I wish I didn't have a hole in my wheel pants that I don't need, but not worth fixing it.
I used a simple hardware store bought stainless snap in plug. It goes along for the ride now.....
 
Ditto on airstops and no holes. I found that removing the front half of the wheel pants was no big deal a couple of times a year and it afforded a good look at the brakes as well.
 
I went through the spring loaded door (hole to small) and the hole plug (PITA to remove and the look didn't work for me. I wanted something flush). This is how I did it (Yes, it was more work. But it was a fun project):

30mtkkn.jpg


2nizfrk.jpg


2hmzlgy.jpg


Jerry Esquenazi
RV-8 N84JE
 
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