After reading through many past threads on this issue I am still at a loss as to what to do about my high CHT's on # 1 and especially #3 on climbout. this is an 0-360 carburated engine on the RV-6A with the standard cowl.
While in cruise lean of peak all is happy with the CHT's on all 4 cylinders. 350 to 370 range.
EGT's are always fine and close to being the same.
On climbout # 1 will go yellow and #3 will go red if I don't back out of the throttle. I have air dams on the front of both #1 and #2. They are both curved and vary from 2 1/2 to 2 in in height.
I put the washer in the back between the #3 cylinder and the baffle but that did not help. You can see the baffle markings in the inside of the top cowl so I think the fit there is pretty good.
I swapped the #3 and #4 CHT probes to make sure that the readings are correct and they are. #3 is the hottest and #4 is the coolest. #4 reads hottest when that probe is in the #3 cylinder.
I am thinking if cutting down the air dam in front of #1 but how much do I take off and will that make # 3 run even hotter?
Any advise is appreciated.
John Morgan
While in cruise lean of peak all is happy with the CHT's on all 4 cylinders. 350 to 370 range.
EGT's are always fine and close to being the same.
On climbout # 1 will go yellow and #3 will go red if I don't back out of the throttle. I have air dams on the front of both #1 and #2. They are both curved and vary from 2 1/2 to 2 in in height.
I put the washer in the back between the #3 cylinder and the baffle but that did not help. You can see the baffle markings in the inside of the top cowl so I think the fit there is pretty good.
I swapped the #3 and #4 CHT probes to make sure that the readings are correct and they are. #3 is the hottest and #4 is the coolest. #4 reads hottest when that probe is in the #3 cylinder.
I am thinking if cutting down the air dam in front of #1 but how much do I take off and will that make # 3 run even hotter?
Any advise is appreciated.
John Morgan