SB 07-11-09 new fork and landing gear on its way.

So i finally figured it was time to complete this SB and I'm just waiting for the parts to be returned. While waiting I thought I would start researching what i had to do after the parts arrive. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find much about how to complete this.

I did a pretty extensive search here for a step by step instructions or even where someone else had completed the install and gave advice. Most of what i found was about re-threading the leg yourself and changing the wheel pant to the new type.

I also checked Vans site but I can't find any drawings or installation instructions. I'd thought there would be drawings like the original build instructions. I was going to call them one of these morning to find out if any instructions will come with the new parts.

For instance, i've ordered a stop flange as per the SB. Where does it go? What type of solution (grease?) do i put on the two matting surfaces between the gear leg and the engine mount? Will i be torquing the fork nut the same as the original instructions?

So if anyone has a link to someone else that has done this please pass it on. I don't know how many others will be getting ready to do this SB but i will post what happens and how I complete it

Thanks in advance

Folks have posted pictures on here regarding the front fork stop flange being installed backwards and causing excessive stress on the front landing gear retaining bolt, the fork rotation limit bracket goes on top facing forward, with Allen head bolts that contact the stop.

Just did this recently

Life circumstances left my RV6A a hanger queen for a long time and I have spent quite a bit of time getting it back up to snuff. I just did the nose gear SB this summer so its fresh in my memory.

We did not change the wheel pants, my old one (1992 model) fit back on perfectly, so unless you really want another one, why bother?

Pull the old gear out, spray on some lubricant if you need to. Obviously you will have a stand ready to hold up the plane while you have the gear off.
Take the new and old gear leg to the local machine shop and have them match drill the hole for you. Its not necessary to ship it back to Vans unless you want.

Assemble the new fork and wheel, on the bench. While its off go ahead and put all new hardware on everywhere. It is also a good time to put on a new nose wheel. I put on a Grove wheel, with a Desser tubeless tire, and am very happy with it. No more shimmy.

After bolting it back on the motor mount, grease the fork and work the grease in before setting the the breakout force. We farm, so a grease gun is a daily used tool, we use Chevron Rycotac grease, but i cant imagine that the exact brand would matter.To set the breakout force, we used a fish scale. Have someone hold the nose off the ground, attach the scale at the axle and pull 22-24 pounds each side of the wheel and secure that with the castle nut and cotter pin.

I also put on the Anti-Splat nose brace and fairing. That part hasnt been "tested" thankfully, but I am very happy with that as well.

this link has some good info, and also pics of the WD631 stop flange.
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=121430&highlight=replace+nose+gear+fork

Chek the Nose wheel strut bolt to engine mount

Remove and check bolt for wear and any play side to side. If bolt breaks bad things happen. You can replace bolt with true size harder bolt (can't remember the info on the bolt but you can use the search engine on this form) or If you want permanent as follows. Lots of work

http://www.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Nose_Gear_Strut

More info on bolt and other tips

Use this forms search and type in "nose gear lessons learned " lots of info and pics.

It sounds like you were not the builder of the airplane?
If you intend to work on it and maintain it, you need to get a copy of the const manual and plans. They are the parts manual and maint. manual and would have most of the info you need to install the new parts correctly.

Available on CD from Van's for $10.

Thanks for the responses. I think...

I'll answer a few of your comments at one time.

Thanks for the info on the tapered bolt. I've read about it but didn't quite get why you'd want to install one until i read the piece from above (that the taper keeps a tight fit between the components as compared to a bolt that has to be under size of the hole. Therefore room to move).

I've read the sticky on the nose wheel. Great information but there isn't anything on installing the parts after they come back. The answer from above cleared up one thing I was thinking about incorrectly. The stop. I thought I had ordered a brass bushing as part of the vans list. But instead it was the steering stop. I wasn't thinking of needing to replace that until i read the response above. Then i remembered the new leg is larger and it will need a new steering stop.

As for the wheel, I have sent it to Anti-Splat to have the bearing type changes. I looked at the options and went with this one because of price. It has now been shipped.

I'm just waiting for the leg and fork to be shipped. I had Vans send it in for the match drilling.

Finally, the wheel pants. I was wondering if I was going to have to do any drilling or fabricating to make the old pant fit. I'm glad to hear that i won't.


So, overall i now think I have this under control.

Thanks again for replying and clearing up some of my misconceptions and unknowns.

Missed one

I am not the builder but i do have all the build information, plans, photos (boxes of them) etc. I've gone through and marked all the pages I need but i think it was the "brass bushing" i thought I had ordered that was really throwing me off.

Now that I've straightened that out i'm much happier

Better a dumb question a than a ..

Im pretty sure i know the answer but here goes.

I got my leg back the other day and lucky for me it was the newer leg so they just shortened and thread the fork portion and I saved a couple hundred bucks. When I talked to Vans they said a lot of people measure them wrong and think they have the older leg. I thought i had done it right so for those of you out there try to measure it correctly.

My question is, once i put the fork on I realized there are no cotter pin holes. This means after I get the fork pressure set I will need to drill a hole for the cotter pin. Correct? My only real concern is what will happen to the threads when I remove the fork in the future. I'm thinking about the burrs from drilling damaging the threads when I take off the nut.

Thanks

jrm7997 said:

Im pretty sure i know the answer but here goes.

I got my leg back the other day and lucky for me it was the newer leg so they just shortened and thread the fork portion and I saved a couple hundred bucks. When I talked to Vans they said a lot of people measure them wrong and think they have the older leg. I thought i had done it right so for those of you out there try to measure it correctly.

My question is, once i put the fork on I realized there are no cotter pin holes. This means after I get the fork pressure set I will need to drill a hole for the cotter pin. Correct? My only real concern is what will happen to the threads when I remove the fork in the future. I'm thinking about the burrs from drilling damaging the threads when I take off the nut.

Thanks

Click to expand...

Use the real nut to just drill a surface mark on the threaded portion with a cordless drill.

Take the real nut off, put on a plain grade 8 hardware store nut and then drill through the gear leg with it all clamped in a drill press.

The hardware store nut will tend to recut any damaged threads as it is removed.

You can do what the majority of people do.
Adjust for the proper tension.
Drill a hole from one side of the nut.
Insert a second drill bit in the drilled hole to maintain nut alignment.
Drill the second hole from the opposite side of the nut.
Install the cotter pin.

The first time you actually remove the nut, the multiple pin notches will do a good job of cleaning up any burr left on the edge of the hole.

Drill with moderate speed and some drill lube (boelube)
If you use a small center punch to punch the threaded area within the notch where you are going to drill, it makes it a little easier to get the drill bit to start.