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Old 12-17-2014, 12:31 PM
Sam Buchanan's Avatar
Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
been here awhile
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,537

Originally Posted by flyboy1963 View Post
Hey, lots of much wiser guys on here, but shouldn't you let the air out BEFORE removing the main axle nut?
That is definitely the recommended sequence for the reasons you stated.
Sam Buchanan
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Old 12-17-2014, 12:43 PM
AndyRV7's Avatar
AndyRV7 AndyRV7 is offline
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hudson County, NJ
Posts: 1,091

I have the plans (and my original preview plans). I need some grease and a way to break the bead if standing on the tire doesn't work. I have a beautiful new vise but I think I read someplace that it was not to be used for breaking tire beads. I could use a valve tool, maybe a heavy rubber mallet, a brake lining tool, a few other things.

I don't have a neighbor to help but at some point working comfortably in my own hangar, with my own tools, and at my own pace is going to be more productive than flying to where I can get help. For what it's worth, everything has been frustrating so far but very satisfying once complete. My first oil change was 7.5 hours, most of which was getting the cowl on and off.

I always take pictures of EVERYTHING, every inch of the way so I can go back and see what it looked like when I took it apart. I also lay out all the hardware in a way I can get it back in the same place. I'm sure it is not going to be pleasant but you guys have already given me a good head start, and a couple of topics to research further on the web.

Thanks. I'll be back with more questions at some point.
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Old 12-17-2014, 12:53 PM
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Mike S Mike S is offline
Senior Curmudgeon
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 16,316

Andy, the comments about not inflating or deflating without being on the axle and with the big nut in place are good ones, you might want to consider doing it that way-------------I posted how I do it, not saying it is right or ?? In fact, I will probably add the big nut stuff to my routine as a precaution.

Thanks to those who mentioned this.
Mike Starkey
VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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Old 12-17-2014, 12:54 PM
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AndyRV7 AndyRV7 is offline
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hudson County, NJ
Posts: 1,091

Oh, one other thing, do you guys balance your wheels in any way?
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:10 PM
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Doug Doug is offline
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 426

The best way I have found to break the bead is a drill press! Put a wood block between the chuck and rubber tyre, then press down as required. Simple, controlled and safe.

Also, when assembling the tyre and rim halves, before setting the second rim in place 'inflate' or puff the tube up inside the tyre. Do this without the valve - it guarantees that the tube has no folds and reduces the risk of clamping the tube between the rim halves.

If you have ever seriously ridden a pushbike you already have 90% of the skill set required.
Doug Gray
RV-6 completed, flying since July 2010
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Old 12-17-2014, 03:22 PM
JAT JAT is offline
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 126


If you are turning your tires around to use all the tread, just mark the position of the valve stem on the tire and put it back on in the same clock position. If you have felt some vibration on takeoff or landing that you suspect is a tire out-of balance, then look in the thread topics for help. I have never had any tire vibration. When you put new tires on they will have a round red mark on the sidewall. Line that mark up with the valve stem. Also, after you fill the tire the initial time, let all the air out, then reinflate the last time. This will allow the tube to slide into the correct position. As you reassemble the wheel halves, put the wheel on the workbench with one edge overhanging, so you can insert the bolt. You should hear metal on metal as the halves clank together. Don't let them apart or the tube may get between the halves and pinch it.

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Old 12-17-2014, 03:30 PM
BobTurner BobTurner is offline
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 8,167

Most Cleveland wheels have the thru-bolt torque specs stamped on them.

As others have said, do not use a screw driver to pry on the tires to break the bead. You will bend the rim and trash your expensive wheel. I've found the "jumping on them" method works pretty well.

This bears repeating. LET THE AIR OUT FIRST, ADD IT LAST.
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:01 PM
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tadsargent tadsargent is offline
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 307

A screwdriver, Noooooooooo. Buy two Irwin squeeze bar clamps to compress the tire and deflated tube. The tire will slip off both hubs with ease.
Tad Stripes Sargent
GRT HXr Glass
Hartzell's advanced composite propeller
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Old 12-17-2014, 05:39 PM
N427EF N427EF is offline
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,617
Default off topic

Perry Y.
West Kelowna, BC
.....trying to donate for 2015, but it ain't workin'!....
You can double the 2014 amount and call it good for 2015.
Works for me and if you accidentally do it again in 2015, the error
will be in Doug's Favor.
Back to tires.
Ernst Freitag
RV-8 finished (sold)
RV-10 IO-540 8.5:1
Running on 91 Octane E10 mogas since 2011
We all get what some of us deserve
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Old 12-17-2014, 06:06 PM
springer springer is offline
Join Date: May 2012
Location: AZ/MN
Posts: 394

Here are some homework videos that may help:
RV-4 '88-'09 Built & Sold
RV-8 Purchased

Last edited by springer : 12-17-2014 at 06:12 PM.
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