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12-17-2014, 12:31 PM
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been here awhile
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyboy1963
Hey, lots of much wiser guys on here, but shouldn't you let the air out BEFORE removing the main axle nut?
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That is definitely the recommended sequence for the reasons you stated.
__________________
Sam Buchanan
RV-6
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12-17-2014, 12:43 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hudson County, NJ
Posts: 1,091
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I have the plans (and my original preview plans). I need some grease and a way to break the bead if standing on the tire doesn't work. I have a beautiful new vise but I think I read someplace that it was not to be used for breaking tire beads. I could use a valve tool, maybe a heavy rubber mallet, a brake lining tool, a few other things.
I don't have a neighbor to help but at some point working comfortably in my own hangar, with my own tools, and at my own pace is going to be more productive than flying to where I can get help. For what it's worth, everything has been frustrating so far but very satisfying once complete. My first oil change was 7.5 hours, most of which was getting the cowl on and off.
I always take pictures of EVERYTHING, every inch of the way so I can go back and see what it looked like when I took it apart. I also lay out all the hardware in a way I can get it back in the same place. I'm sure it is not going to be pleasant but you guys have already given me a good head start, and a couple of topics to research further on the web.
Thanks. I'll be back with more questions at some point. 
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12-17-2014, 12:53 PM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 16,316
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Andy, the comments about not inflating or deflating without being on the axle and with the big nut in place are good ones, you might want to consider doing it that way-------------I posted how I do it, not saying it is right or ?? In fact, I will probably add the big nut stuff to my routine as a precaution.
Thanks to those who mentioned this.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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12-17-2014, 12:54 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Hudson County, NJ
Posts: 1,091
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Oh, one other thing, do you guys balance your wheels in any way?
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12-17-2014, 03:10 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 426
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The best way I have found to break the bead is a drill press! Put a wood block between the chuck and rubber tyre, then press down as required. Simple, controlled and safe.
Also, when assembling the tyre and rim halves, before setting the second rim in place 'inflate' or puff the tube up inside the tyre. Do this without the valve - it guarantees that the tube has no folds and reduces the risk of clamping the tube between the rim halves.
If you have ever seriously ridden a pushbike you already have 90% of the skill set required.
__________________
Doug Gray
RV-6 completed, flying since July 2010
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12-17-2014, 03:22 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Durango, CO
Posts: 126
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Andy,
If you are turning your tires around to use all the tread, just mark the position of the valve stem on the tire and put it back on in the same clock position. If you have felt some vibration on takeoff or landing that you suspect is a tire out-of balance, then look in the thread topics for help. I have never had any tire vibration. When you put new tires on they will have a round red mark on the sidewall. Line that mark up with the valve stem. Also, after you fill the tire the initial time, let all the air out, then reinflate the last time. This will allow the tube to slide into the correct position. As you reassemble the wheel halves, put the wheel on the workbench with one edge overhanging, so you can insert the bolt. You should hear metal on metal as the halves clank together. Don't let them apart or the tube may get between the halves and pinch it.
Jim
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12-17-2014, 03:30 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 8,167
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Most Cleveland wheels have the thru-bolt torque specs stamped on them.
As others have said, do not use a screw driver to pry on the tires to break the bead. You will bend the rim and trash your expensive wheel. I've found the "jumping on them" method works pretty well.
This bears repeating. LET THE AIR OUT FIRST, ADD IT LAST.
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12-17-2014, 05:01 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 307
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A screwdriver, Noooooooooo. Buy two Irwin squeeze bar clamps to compress the tire and deflated tube. The tire will slip off both hubs with ease.
__________________
Tad Stripes Sargent
GRT HXr Glass
TITAN POWERED IO-370
Hartzell's advanced composite propeller
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12-17-2014, 05:39 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,617
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off topic
Quote:
Perry Y.
C-FINT RV-9a
West Kelowna, BC
.....trying to donate for 2015, but it ain't workin'!....
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You can double the 2014 amount and call it good for 2015.
Works for me and if you accidentally do it again in 2015, the error
will be in Doug's Favor. 
Back to tires.
__________________
Ernst Freitag
RV-8 finished (sold)
RV-10 IO-540 8.5:1
Running on 91 Octane E10 mogas since 2011
We all get what some of us deserve
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12-17-2014, 06:06 PM
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: AZ/MN
Posts: 394
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__________________
Jim
RV-4 '88-'09 Built & Sold
RV-8 Purchased
Last edited by springer : 12-17-2014 at 06:12 PM.
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