VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.

  #1  
Old 02-05-2014, 06:15 AM
tomhanaway tomhanaway is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 313
Default Removing rivets-only shop head accessible

Didn't want to hijack the other rivet thread.
I was thinking about the recent SB's for elevators. Don't need to do it but was looking at my doubler plates for turnbuckles.
Apparently, (maybe thinking manufactured head against thinner metal)?, I installed the spar doubler plate rivets for the turnbuckles such that only the shop ends of the rivets are exposed after the elevator leading edge was closed up.

Don't need to do it now but would like to be familiar with procedure when faced with this situation.

Thanks,
Tom H.
__________________
Tom Hanaway
Moved to Murphy, NC
RV-10/N518TP-sold
repeat offending-8A N116TP-Now Flying
based in Copperhill, TN 1A3
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:24 AM
PJSeipel PJSeipel is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Albany, GA for the moment
Posts: 294
Default

I've done it a few times. Just like doing it from the manufactured head, but you better be darned sure your hole is in the center of the shop head or you'll make a mess. And if your shop heads are clinched or smashed too flat, all bets are off. I use a center-punch to made a starting divot in the center of the shop head where I want to drill, and I start with a much smaller drill bit, like a 1/16. Drill most of the way through the shop head, don't go all the way through the rivet. On a -3 rivet I'd go up to a #40 bit at that point. For a -4 I'd drill #40, then #30. Then snap it off with a punch just like you would any other. It is obviously more difficult on dimpled holes. I'd practice a few times on scrap before doing it on structure you want to keep.

There may be a better way, but if there is I don't know what it is.

PJ Seipel
RV-10 #40032
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:48 AM
Walt's Avatar
Walt Walt is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Dallas/Ft Worth, TX
Posts: 5,840
Default

The shop head is generally not centered so this is risky business no matter how you approach it. Another option is to grind off the shop head then drill the rivet shank to loosen it and punch it out.
__________________
Walt Aronow, DFW, TX (52F)

EXP Aircraft Services LLC
Specializing in RV Condition Inspections, Maintenance, Avionics Upgrades
Dynamic Prop Balancing, Pitot-Static Altmeter/Transponder Certification
FAA Certified Repair Station, AP/IA/FCC GROL, EAA Technical Counselor
Authorized Garmin G3X Dealer/Installer
RV7A built 2004, 1700+ hrs, New Titan IO-370, Bendix Mags
Website: ExpAircraft.com, Email: walt@expaircraft.com, Cell: 972-746-5154
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:49 PM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.