Interior Paint

Ready for interior paint on -8A ,what is a good paint ?

N184JG said:

Ready for interior paint on -8A ,what is a good paint ?

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I'm following the lead of a few VAF Forum members whose work I admire and using the Rustoleum hammered finish rattle can stuff. but I'm not going crazy. I'm painting only the stuff that shows (ex: I'm only painting the parts of the seatbacks that people can actually see). The finish blocks glare and the textured (hammered) effect hides a multitude of sins.

I used a similar Rustoleum product called American Accents SandStone in Boulder Grey. I used it only on surfaces above the main longerons, leaving all AL below natural. The color emulates the natural AL. I used pieces of fabric covered Super sound proof sheet glued between longerons and bulkheads to trim my interior. Easy to do, easy to replace (if necessary), areas subject to abrasion are unpainted so paint repair becomes unnecessary, saves weight, and looks clean.

Attached is a shot of my interior.

Roberta

I liked using Dupont Nason. Very tough! Should be available at an auto paint store.

Jet-Flex

I used Sherwin-Williams Jet-Flex, a water-based polyurethane. Cleans up with water, and no super-nasty ingredients. Where my application skills were up to par, the finish is terrific and really tough. The paint stuck well after carefully swabbing my qb with denatured alcohol.

Here's a shot of my naked cabin

Here's a link to Sherwin-Williams Jet-Flex

A gallon has done the interior and all fittings, and I even painted underneath panels to make spotting problems easier. I got my paint from Aero Performance.

Roberta's interior- how heavy is the sound proofing

Thanks Roberta, That grey is exactly what I'm looking for though I would like it one or two shades lighter. And this leads into a new question of sound proofing and fabric- How light is your sound proofing and fabric- what did you use What say you all??

Brad
RV 6A -firewall forward!

Alan Erickson said:

I used Sherwin-Williams Jet-Flex, a water-based polyurethane. Cleans up with water, and no super-nasty ingredients. Where my application skills were up to par, the finish is terrific and really tough. The paint stuck well after carefully swabbing my qb with denatured alcohol.

Here's a shot of my naked cabin

Here's a link to Sherwin-Williams Jet-Flex

A gallon has done the interior and all fittings, and I even painted underneath panels to make spotting problems easier. I got my paint from Aero Performance.

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+1 on the JET FLEX.

ACS lists the weight of the 3/4" thick stuff at 1.4 lbs for 1 lineal foot at 4 foot width and .80 lbs per lineal foot on the 3/8" stuff. I used the 3/8" on the sidewalls and firewall and the 3/4" stuff on the forward cabin floor.

Roberta

Water Based Jetflex

I used it on my -9A and it has held up well as I wired and plumbed the interior. I shot it with a textured finish and have received compliments on the looks.

No odors or nasties when you spray.

Jetflex sounds like a really good way to go. What's the difference between textured & smooth? Seems like smooth would be easier to keep clean? How "bumpy" is the textured stuff?

Thanks, Pete

Scott Will said:

I liked using Dupont Nason. Very tough! Should be available at an auto paint store.

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Is that the acrylic Nason or two-part epoxy?

Thanks!

penguin said:

What's the difference between textured & smooth?

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I first got the idea of using a textured finish from Joe Schumacher (EAA Oshkosh) in his "From the Ground Up" series. He used a spraying nozzle to achieve the finish on a panel because (a)it hides fingerprints and (b) it eliminates (or at least reduces) glare.

I don't know if he used that finish on the rest of the interior (even though I saw the plane when it was nearly finished over at OSH), however. But I decided to in mine.

Plus with a textured finish, perfection isn't necessary. (there was a run on the outside paint job on the VS on that plane, by the way. Which made me feel much better since Schumacher has built someting like 19 planes)

I had at one point considered just leaving the SW wash primer as the only"finish" (I actually view it as a good way to protect from scratches more so than corrosion). When you get that stuff applied perfectly and just get a nice green tint, it's kinda cool. Problem is: it's darned hard to get a uniform application of that stuff from priming sessioin to priming session. Darned light stuff, though. And tough as nails.

Mininimal Texture

Pete,

It is just slightly bumpy, with a low gloss sheen. I shot a smooth coat, then came back over with a coat where the HVLP pressure was real low and paint nozzle was open wide. Gave a splatter paint effect that hides most any flaw. This is a fancy was of saying I'm just learning to paint and made the best I could out of it.

I am happy with the finish.