Castle Nuts, Cotter pins and thin washers?

Hi Guys,

I am bussy with the rudder pedal assembly and have some queries since it is the first time I encounter the castle nuts & cottor pins in my assembly:




Here is my Questions Referring the Drawing above:
1) Yellow Highlight: What is the order of the washers? Does the thin AN960-10L washer go between the 2 moving parts or on the outside just under the nut? What is the typical practise?
2) All Castle Nuts: How tight to you make these since there should be relative movement on the components kept in place?
3) Cotter pins: What is the best way to do them?
4) Lubrication: Is any lubrication required on these moving parts?
5) Yellow and Green Highlight: Release notes R1: The specified AN3-5 bolt is to long for the assembly I physically checked, since it only goes through the alu angle , where as the other side goes through the additional brake master Cylinder attachment bracket. The previous specified AN3-4 bolt looks like it would have worked perfectly on this location. How did you guys solve this or do you know why Vans changed in it?

Thank you,
Kind Regards
Rudi

Goeie more mnr.

Hi Rudy,
If you can only fit one washer, put it under the nut. The plans are often wrong regarding bolt /rivet lengths. Be sure to have at least one thread showing on your bolts. Put the cotter keys in and bend them around the bolt. Cut them off so they just do curl-you don't want them to hang up on a shoe lace or something. Tighten them just until they're not sloppy but still allow motion. (Rudy, I was born in Kempton Park 1945),
See ya

Rudi:

William is correct on the cotter pins. In aircraft, they are bent along the long axis of the bolt, not around the circumference. I couldn't tell you the science behind this method but, it does leave only 1 cut end exposed. Maybe that is the reason, less chance for cutting yourself or of an end being bent open by snagging.

Washers in this application: You will need to size the washers to fit. Some of the bolts may accept -10's while others may need -10L's. Put washers where shown but be prepared to substitute 10 or 10L as needed.

I found that this assembly can't be torqued per the circular because it gets the bearing surfaces too tight. My process was as follows:

1. Torque to the minimum standard torque,
2. Test to determine if the pedals would move, specifically to determine if the brake cylinder would reposition the pedals after release. If not,
3. LOOSEN to the next hole allignment and retest.

I found the nuts needed to be loosened 1 hole after reaching minimum standard torque to ensure freedom of movement (automatic return after actuating the brakes).

This is one of those assemblies that may require you to use a longer or shorter bolt as needed.

Jekyll

Page 9 for cotter pins.



http://www2.tech.purdue.edu/at/courses/at308/Technical_Links/Ac43-13-1B/CH7_7.pdf

I used some white lithium grease, since in this case, unlike say the bellcrank where there is a bushing, the pedals rotate on the bolts. They're not going anywhere since they're cotter pinned.