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Bonderite M-CR 1201

rockitdoc

Well Known Member
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I was planning to use the 1201 product for corrosion resistance on my Skybolt flanges attached to the firewall. But, the instructions for the Henkel product indicate to paint after application, washing and drying. I wasn't planning to paint the flanges, but leave them treated. I contacted Henkel, but so far, no answer.

Anybody have experience with not painting after treating with 1201?

Bonderite Instructions.jpg
 
I may be wrong but I think this means...if your going to paint, do it immediately after drying.

There are lots of parts that are alodined and not painted.
 
Alodine

Yes. No worries. That's how lots of small parts on my plane are done. Alodine only. Save weight.
I use heavy baggies for sloshing. Waste products go into a gallon jug. When it's full, it goes to the haz mat waste site in Loveland/Ft Collins
 
Alodine

Alodine and Bonderite 1205 are equivalent?

Henkel changed the product’s name from “Alodine” to “Bonderite” as part of a “branding strategy” begun in 2014. In identifying the product, as seen on the*safety data sheet for Bonderite M-CR 1201 AERO, the company continues to note “known as Alodine.” For clarity, the*Henkel website*includes a statement regarding the new branding: “There will be no changes to the product’s chemical formulation…[or] specifications…All approvals and certifications will remain valid.”
 
Henkel changed the product’s name from “Alodine” to “Bonderite” as part of a “branding strategy” begun in 2014. In identifying the product, as seen on the*safety data sheet for Bonderite M-CR 1201 AERO, the company continues to note “known as Alodine.” For clarity, the*Henkel website*includes a statement regarding the new branding: “There will be no changes to the product’s chemical formulation…[or] specifications…All approvals and certifications will remain valid.”

Excellent. Thanks Larry.
 
Henkel changed the product’s name from “Alodine” to “Bonderite” as part of a “branding strategy” begun in 2014. In identifying the product, as seen on the*safety data sheet for Bonderite M-CR 1201 AERO, the company continues to note “known as Alodine.” For clarity, the*Henkel website*includes a statement regarding the new branding: “There will be no changes to the product’s chemical formulation…[or] specifications…All approvals and certifications will remain valid.”

I heard (but haven't confirmed) that the name change drove the creation of an AD. All of the big plane maintenance manuals called out Alodine and officially it didn't exist anymore. Bonderite wasn't on the approved substitutions list, so an AD was generated to allow the substitution.
 
I was planning to use the 1201 product for corrosion resistance on my Skybolt flanges attached to the firewall. But, the instructions for the Henkel product indicate to paint after application, washing and drying. I wasn't planning to paint the flanges, but leave them treated. I contacted Henkel, but so far, no answer.

Anybody have experience with not painting after treating with 1201?

View attachment 29026
All of my interior aluminum that is not visible was alodine with the same stuff and left unprimed and unpainted. I primed the mating surfaces before riveting. I think the instructions are for the commercial use where alodine is required before priming and painting
 
Paint prep for most aircraft..

At my day job of 42 years maintaining/repairing airliners and large military aircraft, Alodine, now Bonderite is a mainstay used daily. In virtually every Structural Repair Manual (SRM), this etch chemical is a requirement prior to final prime/paint, or adhesive bonding of metal to metal. It creates a controlled etching of the surface to promote adhesion. It is also called out for aluminum that will not be painted and subjected to the elements especially where Alclad has been removed for blendout, ect. I also use it for engine baffling on GA aircraft as well as my personal RV-4, as it makes for a more resistant finish than bare metal, and I don't particularly like painted baffles, as they always end up scratched and chipped. During my RV-4 build, I had access to large dip tanks capable of 18 ft lengths. It made it super easy to dunk virtually every aluminum piece of my project prior to priming, however, hand wiping with soaked cheesecloth , brushing or even spraying works well..with proper PPE of course.
 
Be mindful

No one will argue alodine's effectiveness. Any informed person will not argue its health and environmental hazards; it really is that bad. Dip tanks, capture sluices, etc. are great for capturing the raw application fluid. For the "hobbyists", the rinse water also requires special handling. Be careful and mindful. What makes it effective is hexavalent chrome. It never leaves the environment or your body. I'll state again, it really is that bad.

BTW. Always buy the gold versus the clear. Much easier to see the application, unwanted surface contamination ("water break") and disposal efforts, IMO.
 
Are you sure you purchased Bonderite? The bottle instructions clearly say "Bonoerite". This kind of spelling mistake is often seen on counterfeit products from China.

Some time ago, my company had several hundred semiconductor devices returned to our factory for failure analysis. They looked almost perfect, but it was clear from the markings (and confirmed by de-encapsulation) that they were counterfeit chips. Of course, they did not work. The customer admitted that they were purchased from a third-party supplier, at a discount.

VV
 
Last edited:
Are you sure you purchased Bonderite? The bottle instructions clearly say "Bonoerite". This kind of spelling mistake is often seen on counterfeit products from China.

Some time ago, my company had several hundred semiconductor devices returned to our factory for failure analysis. They looked almost perfect, but it was clear from the markings (and confirmed by de-encapsulation) that they were counterfeit chips. Of course, they did not work. The customer admitted that they were purchased from a third-party supplier, at a discount.

VV

No. I looked for my receipt, but could not find it. Here's the rest of the bottle. Maybe someone can identify the part no. and trace the source. However, it does seem to 'color' the aluminum in the shade expected and fully 'wets' the surface.

Bonderite.jpg

Skybolts Firewall Anoldined Countersunk.jpg
 
that looks like an aircraft spruce sticker.

it was spelled correctly later in the label. it's possible henkel had a typo.
 
No one will argue alodine's effectiveness. Any informed person will not argue its health and environmental hazards; it really is that bad. Dip tanks, capture sluices, etc. are great for capturing the raw application fluid. For the "hobbyists", the rinse water also requires special handling. Be careful and mindful. What makes it effective is hexavalent chrome. It never leaves the environment or your body. I'll state again, it really is that bad.

BTW. Always buy the gold versus the clear. Much easier to see the application, unwanted surface contamination ("water break") and disposal efforts, IMO.

You learn something new every day. Interesting info and I thank you for sharing it. I guess that means I'm buggered as I've been soaking in it for my entire career. On the plus side it probably means I won't corrode when they bury me and in 5,000 years some archiologist is going to dig me up and announce he has discoverd a new embalming method.

I believe the best process is - Deoxidine, Alodine and paint almost immediately. That said I have perconally never been anal about painting immediately afterwards. Deoxidine is just a phosphoric acid wash to remove oils, the alodine etches the material. A light coat of a two-pot epoxy polomide primer will ensure you'll have the best protection for eternity. While painting provides that extra layer of protection you can certainly get away without it and you can be sure that the aeroplne will out-live you either way.
 
You learn something new every day. Interesting info and I thank you for sharing it. I guess that means I'm buggered as I've been soaking in it for my entire career. On the plus side it probably means I won't corrode when they bury me and in 5,000 years some archiologist is going to dig me up and announce he has discoverd a new embalming method.

I believe the best process is - Deoxidine, Alodine and paint almost immediately. That said I have perconally never been anal about painting immediately afterwards. Deoxidine is just a phosphoric acid wash to remove oils, the alodine etches the material. A light coat of a two-pot epoxy polomide primer will ensure you'll have the best protection for eternity. While painting provides that extra layer of protection you can certainly get away without it and you can be sure that the aeroplne will out-live you either way.

Both the human body and nature are amazingly resilient regarding the abuse we throw at them. Not intending to sound preachy but It’s best not to challenge either unnecessarily, IMO. There’s plenty of websites that address chrome 6. Here’s a generic one.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexavalent_chromium

Stay safe.
 
All of my interior aluminum that is not visible was alodine with the same stuff and left unprimed and unpainted. I primed the mating surfaces before riveting. I think the instructions are for the commercial use where alodine is required before priming and painting
I got my empennage kit few weeks ago and am preparing to start building it. I also will alodine and prime mating surfaces before riveting. Which primer paint did you use?

Thanks,
 
I got my empennage kit few weeks ago and am preparing to start building it. I also will alodine and prime mating surfaces before riveting. Which primer paint did you use?

Thanks,

SEM Self-etching in green. Rattle can convenient. Effective. Fast dry.
15 cans so far.
 
I also use it for engine baffling on GA aircraft as well as my personal RV-4, as it makes for a more resistant finish than bare metal, and I don't particularly like painted baffles, as they always end up scratched and chipped.

I did the same. 17 years later and over 1000 flying hours and my baffle still looks great with only the alodine and no primer or paint.
 
SEM Self-etching in green. Rattle can convenient. Effective. Fast dry.
15 cans so far.
I am somewhat confused. If I alodine aluminum surface, I should not use anything that etches that (alodined) surface, right? Thus, after alodining, I should use a primer that does not have etching in it? Maybe, my original question was not accurate. I should ask, What primer paint to use on top of alodine surface?
 
Correct. Typical chromate conversion process (Alodine 1201 / Bonderite) is to etch with phosphoric acid, chromate convert, and then prime.
Do not use a self-etching primer over the converted surface. Pretty much any non-etching primer will work. The conversion stabilizes the surface (oxidation) so the paint sticks better.

The mil spec for chromate conversion is MIL-DTL-5541. Type I, class 1A is what you are doing.

Really, really think about the hexavalent chromium toxicity though. I'm not going to use it anymore.
 
I am somewhat confused. If I alodine aluminum surface, I should not use anything that etches that (alodined) surface, right? Thus, after alodining, I should use a primer that does not have etching in it? Maybe, my original question was not accurate. I should ask, What primer paint to use on top of alodine surface?

Either alodine or self etch. I like self etch its easier, less toxic, and no chance for corrosion layer if you didnt do it correctly.
 
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