Looks like a nice brake. I had a Tennsmith 48 finger brake, but sold it because work had a 48Ē National that I liked better. Radiusing the bend can be accomplished by setting the fingers back. Iíd just use a little strip of scrap to find the right setting. Or, like others said, you can bend a piece if mild steel or stainless to add radius to the fingers. Just make sure to set the fingers back accordingly so you donít pinch the target material. That method generally makes a more even radius, if that is important. Having all those removable apron and bed fingers could be handy on rare occasions. I have to tell you though, hitting your dimensions with more than a couple of bends will likely happen only after youíve made a lot of practice scrap! I made a lot of side consoles out of (free) 5052 before I got the recipe down for committing to 2024. And poster board before the 5052!
You really donít need a finger brake for RV kits unless you are making custom parts, like my side consoles. I use the crappy press brake on the crappy 3:1 HF machine I picked up on CL occasionally to make small stuff. Everything on that machine is garbage though. Iíd love to score a nice old Diacro 16-24 manual brake. We had one in our prototyping shop back in the day that had a ton of tooling, like joggle dies, etc. It was awesome. You do give up length though. Have to go big/heavy to get much length in a press brake. In general, hitting your marks is a lot easier on a (good) press brake. Hard to go wrong with anything Diacro. Keep an eye on your local CL and such.
Beyond a brake, I use my Diacro notcher a lot. Very handy. Makes such clean trim cuts. Followed by my old lathe, Tennsmith kick shear, mill, brake, and roller. No punch at this time other than a Whitney 5 and XX.
N164WM RV-6A Slider/O-360/FP Sold 4/2022
N184WM (RV-8) In final assembly at the airport. Titan IOX-370
N184P reserved (RV-8QB) Empennage kit and QB wings in the shop