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When a rivet is just a tad long

skelrad

Well Known Member
Friend
Sometimes Van's calls out rivet lengths that are maybe a bit long, but the best length given the options. What's the appropriate way to gauge the correct shop head size for rivets that aren't the perfect length? Is it better to target the correct finish diameter or the correct finish height of the rivet head? Since with longer rivets you kind of have the choice of a "normal" diameter head but higher than normal shank length above the material, or bigger than normal diameter, but normal finished height.

Does it matter?
 
There should be a rivet cutter in your toolbox. If not, fill that vacancy. Trim to the correct length.
 
So long as the shop head meets the minimum diameter and height it's good, beyond that it doesn't matter structurally
 
You can realistically go 1/2 size longer with no problem. Sorry but I have done this to meany years, I just use a pare of dykes and a file, or just a file. Getting out the rivet cutter just takes too long. Unless I need to shorten a lot of rivets. But I have a large quantity and various size and length of the suckers.

RD
 
Shop head

So long as the shop head meets the minimum diameter and height it's good, beyond that it doesn't matter structurally

Like he said.
I rarely use a cutter and quite often opt for rivets that are 1/2 size longer than Vans callouts. I find it easier to get a perfect shop head without concerns over minimim height or diameter.
 
Slightly too long rivets in a difficult location can lead to problems. If you know its going to squish just perfectly, then go for it, make a nice big shop head. As long as it meets both specs, it's good. If it's in a difficult spot, slightly too long rivets are much more prone to falling over and becoming a "hockey stick". That's when I'd shorten a rivet to the correct length.

Files, rivet shear, whatever suits your fancy. Just don't use a bench grinder or anything that will create friction and heat. That messes with the temper of the rivet and the shop head won't be any good. Might look okay, but the temper is wrong.

For fear of getting blasted, I'll say this. In a difficult spot, I'll sometimes pick slightly too short over slightly too long. Then I get a shop head closer to the actual mil-spec instead of the 1.5 and 0.5 dimensions. A mil-spec shop head properly set is better than a buggered up hockey stick of a shop head from being too long. Then into the debacle of drill it out, try again...only to enlarge the hole and the 2nd one doesn't set properly either, then a -5 rivet still in a difficult spot.... Mil-Spec is the minimum, and is how we define "good enough".

Van's even references the mil-spec in section 5 when discussing "slightly too short" rivet call-outs in the plans.
 
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