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Cabin Heat Control

todehnal

Well Known Member
I have a minor issue with the cabin heat control cable. Originally all we had was a ratchet detent cable. It was determined that during flight it would creep so Van's added a comb to be installed on the cable, and weaving the cable through the comb to add tension, thus eliminating the creep. It worked. The problem is that it is quite difficult to move the control now. In fact my wife cannot move it at all, so that chore defaults to me. I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced cabin heat adjustment difficulty, but I would like to have a friction lock, or push button release, so that the cable is held in place, but can be let free to be able to fine tune the cabin temperature. Before I call McFarlane and re-invent the wheel, I thought I would check with someone who may have been there and done that. Thanks....Tom
 
I'm not at all familiar .... so maybe this as way off base....
but if the cable is weaving through a comb.... how many teeth?
Can you reduce a weave or two or three..... to still have some friction from it just not as much?
 
Had the same creep issue on the 6. I replaced the bowden cable with one that I got from spruce. The cable dimensions are similar, but the knob has a button on the front that locks it in place. You have to push the button in to move the cable. It is never drifts now.

Larry
 
Had the same creep issue on the 6. I replaced the bowden cable with one that I got from spruce. The cable dimensions are similar, but the knob has a button on the front that locks it in place. You have to push the button in to move the cable. It is never drifts now.

Larry

Hey Larry, the RV-12 cabin heat cable is a cable offered by spruce CTA-740. If that is the same cable that you had, the push button cable should fit the 12 as well. If that is the case, I may just order the push button cable.
 
I'm not at all familiar .... so maybe this as way off base....
but if the cable is weaving through a comb.... how many teeth?
Can you reduce a weave or two or three..... to still have some friction from it just not as much?

As I recall, there are only 3 teeth in the comb. I may be able to shape the comb so that the bends are less effective, but I really like the idea of a push button cable....Tom
 
As I recall, there are only 3 teeth in the comb. I may be able to shape the comb so that the bends are less effective, but I really like the idea of a push button cable....Tom

We've got the opposite problem. The comb became separate from the airplane at some point, so ours is either fully closed, or creeping to fully open. I made a replacement comb, but apparently not from heavy enough material. It's been a constant irritant during the large part of the year when you might want a little heat, but not ALL of it. It's on my list...
 
Yeah, I just feel that a push button positive lock cable would move much smoother and it would be so much easier to maintain a comfortable cabin temp.
 
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I put some zig-zags in the wire core near the end of the sheath. This provides some friction lock and is easily adjustable.

VV
 
I put some zig-zags in the wire core near the end of the sheath. This provides some friction lock and is easily adjustable.

VV

Since I am thinking about replacing the original cable anyway, this sounds like it is worth a try. Thanks. Tom
 
I had the same setup as the heater for the 'Bender Baffle'. The cable failed after 6 years. Replaced the cable with a "A-700 BUTTON LOCK DASH CONTROLS" ordered from Aircraft Spruce. I now have the same problem with the heater door as you describe. Gonna replace the heater cable also with the cable mentioned above.
 
I had the same setup as the heater for the 'Bender Baffle'. The cable failed after 6 years. Replaced the cable with a "A-700 BUTTON LOCK DASH CONTROLS" ordered from Aircraft Spruce. I now have the same problem with the heater door as you describe. Gonna replace the heater cable also with the cable mentioned above.

Thanks Jori. It nice to use a replacement mod that someone else has already tested and found to to be a satisfactory.
 
Thanks Jori. It nice to use a replacement mod that someone else has already tested and found to to be a satisfactory.

I only used the cable for the 'Bender Baffle' at the moment, not for the heating door yet. It works so much better and has a very good locking force. The cable is with .062" somewhat thicker than the old one (.050"?).
Not sure if it will fit the FF-1210 (Page 49-10).
 
Slipping carb heat control

Discovered my Vans supplied carb heat detent type control is opening up on ram air pressure alone and shutting off carb heat all within a short time. Until my condition inspection coming up in a few months when I can install a improved button type lock control I’d like to try a temporary fix using one of the “combs”. Would someone with one describe what it is. Seems like it would be easy to fab one out of some aluminum plate if it’s what zi think it is. Any photos or listing is them on a aircraft supply site?
 
Discovered my Vans supplied carb heat detent type control is opening up on ram air pressure alone and shutting off carb heat all within a short time. Until my condition inspection coming up in a few months when I can install a improved button type lock control I’d like to try a temporary fix using one of the “combs”. Would someone with one describe what it is. Seems like it would be easy to fab one out of some aluminum plate if it’s what zi think it is. Any photos or listing is them on a aircraft supply site?

You might be able to order the RV12 friction comb from Vans, or make one.
 

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