Baggage panel removal

[Ron B.]

Probably had one or two screws hard to remove when removing the rear baggage bulkhead panel but today for my condition inspection (annual) seven refused to back out. I don't think it's the driver as it takes a tremendous torque before the Philips head gives out. I drilled one and hope to sneak past the bulkhead (remaining screws are up high) and catch the tails to start them this afternoon. Been removing these screws since 2017. Same hangar same temperature. All I know I have to do something once I re-install the bulkhead. I'm not sure if it's the threads in the plate nuts or the contact on the painted bulkhead? Might try Boelube on each screw and a nylon washer on each head.
So much for a ten minute job.

[Carl Froehlich]

As you found out, any fastener going into a nutplate needs Boelube - at least for the first use.

The other secret is to always stay with the AN cad plated steel screws. SS screws tend to gaul in the nutplates even if you use Boelube.

Carl

[Mike S]

Beeswax is a great lube for nutplates, one toilet ring from the local hardware store is enough to last a long time.

As stated above, SS will gall easily --- be sure to use lube.

[philb]

+1 on the toilet bowl beeswax!

Also, get the Irwin screw extractors- come in a 3 size pack for about 20 bucks- the DE-1 size fits #6 and #8 screws. Have yet to find an obstinate screw that won’t yield!!

Phil
RV10 built/flying
Bountiful, Utah

[Ron B.]

Well I have discovered my problem. Had one screw left on the bulkhead and I was able to rotate the bulkhead around the screw. The screw turned with the panel , but yet would not turn with the screwdriver. The flat heads are sticking to the paint on the panels. Once you can see the screw head move one degree they screw out easily.

[terrykohler]

They’ll also reduce marring or chipping of the paint.
Terry, CFI
RV9A N323TP