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  #21  
Old 03-18-2006, 12:46 AM
alpinelakespilot2000 alpinelakespilot2000 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,703
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Thanks Chad. I think you and I last bought it during a sale that was running in the fall. Unfortunately I haven't seen that sale running again and the guy at the store said he's never been able to predict when stuff will be on sale. If anyone hears that Napa has a sale going, by all means post the news--it's definitely worth buying then!
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  #22  
Old 03-18-2006, 11:48 AM
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cjensen cjensen is offline
 
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Location: Milwaukee, WI area
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absolutely!! i will tell if i hear of it...
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Astronics AES, Vertical Power
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RV-7, 5 yr build, flew it 68 hours, sold it, miss it.
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  #23  
Old 03-18-2006, 10:14 PM
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osxuser osxuser is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pasadena CA
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Aircraft spruce carries Zinc Chromate for a touch over $6 a can, I think thats what I'll use. It's very recognizable for most A&P's and it's easy to use and dries almost instantly in a warm climate. I plan on priming only non-alclad parts and perhaps the seams, we'll see.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/zinc.php
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RV4 wing in Jig @ KPOC
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  #24  
Old 03-19-2006, 06:35 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Location: Dayton, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osxuser
Aircraft spruce carries Zinc Chromate for a touch over $6 a can, I think thats what I'll use. It's very recognizable for most A&P's and it's easy to use and dries almost instantly in a warm climate. I plan on priming only non-alclad parts and perhaps the seams, we'll see.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/zinc.php

When I decided on my rattle can primer I tested several different types. If I recall correclty, the stuff from ACS was not self etching, and I could scratch it off with a fingernail. I hope I am remembering this incorrectly, but you might want to test before you buy a case!

Paul
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Editor at Large - KITPLANES Magazine
RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
A&P, EAA Tech Counselor/Flight Advisor
Dayton Valley Airpark (A34)
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  #25  
Old 03-19-2006, 08:42 AM
jcoloccia jcoloccia is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight
When I decided on my rattle can primer I tested several different types. If I recall correclty, the stuff from ACS was not self etching, and I could scratch it off with a fingernail. I hope I am remembering this incorrectly, but you might want to test before you buy a case!

Paul
I believe you're correct, Paul. I got my chromate from Redden Marine Supply. It's still Tempo, just the self-etching variety. Nice stuff, designed for below waterline use.

Problem is that you CAN scratch it off with a fingernail, even the self etching stuff, until it's dried for about a week. Bummer....that's why I don't use it anymore. I let a test piece sit around for about a week, and the stuff is tough as nails when it's fully hardened but who the heck wants to wait a week to rivet?
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  #26  
Old 03-19-2006, 03:46 PM
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mgomez mgomez is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Northern California, USA
Posts: 537
Default Buy a LOT of 988

I've been using Sherwin Williams 988 on my mating surfaces. Only for small areas (ribs, spars, etc.) do I prime the whole thing. Mine is a QB, so there's a lot of it that I'm not priming at all, because it's already put together.

My advice is to buy a LOT of rattle cans. I've used about 16 so far, and I've done:

Empennage
Seats
Rudder
Ailerons & Flaps (I'm painting the rear spar, aileron gap seal, flap brace, etc. where water might pool)
Pushrods, inside and out

The cans don't go very far, at least not if you do two coats.
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Redwood City, CA
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  #27  
Old 04-04-2006, 06:04 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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Location: SC
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Ok, I'll bite.

The future N941WR was primed, after alumini prepping and alodining, with SEM Self Etching Primer.

The stuff seems to work well, but then again, my -9 is still in my hermetically sealed basement.

It was recommended to me by another RV builder/flier and he is still happy with the results.

One thing I really like about using the spray cans is that clean up is VERY easy. Just put the can back on the shelf.
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RV-9 (Yes, it's a dragon tail)
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Build the plane you want, not the plane others want you to build!
SC86 - Easley, SC
www.repucci.com/bill/baf.html
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  #28  
Old 04-04-2006, 06:19 PM
apatti apatti is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Middle Georgia
Posts: 654
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I just started using the SEM rattle cans as well. I like it. However, I don't acid etch and alodine any more. A couple of years ago at Sun n Fun, Tom Greene told me that was redundant. I just clean the surface, scuff with a Scotchbrite pad, clean it again, clean it again, and then hit it with the SEM. It dries very quickly and seems very durable. And, as said before, clean up is a breeze! Comes in a variety of colors ,too.

Does anyone know how to safely discard spent alodine??
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Phase I complete
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  #29  
Old 04-04-2006, 06:41 PM
Aviator Aviator is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Hixson, TN ( Chattanooga)
Posts: 72
Default Dupont in a rattle can

Relative new comer and aimed to catch the market is the offering from Dupont. I get this from auto refinishing store.
The primer is A 4115-S, comes in green and grey. I like it better than the Sherwin williams product ( which is smme as the NAPA) and the SEM.
I have tried to attach a pic.
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  #30  
Old 04-07-2006, 12:20 AM
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AX-O AX-O is offline
 
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Location: SoCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjensen
sorry steve, i forgot about this until i went to pick up another case of six cans today. my last purchase of six was $25.72...boy was i in for a suprise today!!! $49.56!!! i don't know what happened between november and today, but it's up to $7.60/can before tax.

Just picked up 2 boxes of NAPA 7220 self etching primer. Each box was approx $26. Got 2 because I saw the post above and figure maybe they gave me and wrong price.
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RV-4 fastback thread and Pics
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The information that I post is just that; information and my own personal experiences. You need to weight out the pros and cons and make up your own mind/decisions. The pictures posted may not show the final stage or configuration. Build at your own risk.
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