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11-17-2011, 08:13 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Libertyville, Illinois
Posts: 54
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How should I tie down RV-7 for engine run in?
The good news: it's finally time to run the engine for the first engine run.
The bad news: My rebuilt O360 has new ECI Titan cylinders that have never been 'run in'. So, I need to fire it up and run at some pretty high RPM and temps for the first 60-90 minutes to start the ring seating process properly.
The bottom line is that I need some best practice advice on how to hold back my RV7 with the Catto prop spinning fast. I have considered tying the tailwheel to my Honda Pilot.
Should the tail be lifted so as to not create pressures under the wing?
Would you ever use the wing tie downs to hold back under full power? I was thinking I need to hold the gear legs somehow?
Other suggestions for run-in, break-in always appreciated.
Ideas appreciated......
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11-17-2011, 08:30 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Townsend, Montana
Posts: 3,179
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tie down the tail to the ground. chock the wheels. and Minimize the ground time.
__________________
Retired Dam guy. Life is good.
Brian, N155BKsold but bought back.
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11-17-2011, 08:38 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 696
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With my new jugs that had never run before (replaced 4 due to group B ECi) the initial ring seating took place in only about 3/10ths of an hour (based on CHT dropping significantly). These were the Nickel-Carbide cylinders.
I had only done two brief starts of the engine before launching (albeit not the first flight) - limiting each to less than two minutes or 275 on CHT - whichever came first. (CHT doesn't necessarily tell you what the temperature is on the cylinder wall.) The first start to check for leaks; wait a day, and the second start to make sure I could get enough power for takeoff; wait a day, and fly.
The way I understand it, if you ground run the engine for 60 - 90 minutes without some serious cooling shroud precautions, you could bet on glazing the cylinders. Your best course would be to get high power (more than 75%) but without too high a CHT temperature. Too low power and the rings don't seat - you get blow by and the cylinders glaze; too high a temperature and the oil cokes on the cylinder wall and the cylinders glaze. ECi has some downloadable info on engine break in and so does Mattituck.
I know it's an answer to a question you really didn't ask - just another $.02 for good measure.
Dan
__________________
RV7A (N7101) - Flying 10/2008
CFI- SE/ME/Inst
A&P
KC2ZEL
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11-17-2011, 09:10 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: santa barbara, CA
Posts: 1,710
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Ditto on what Dan said. Don't be doing any significant time on the ground at high power. Sucky huh? Think about it what it's like with a new plane AND a new engine.
Erich
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11-17-2011, 09:12 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,428
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmithlib
The good news: it's finally time to run the engine for the first engine run.
The bad news: My rebuilt O360 has new ECI Titan cylinders that have never been 'run in'. So, I need to fire it up and run at some pretty high RPM and temps for the first 60-90 minutes to start the ring seating process properly.
The bottom line is that I need some best practice advice on how to hold back my RV7 with the Catto prop spinning fast. I have considered tying the tailwheel to my Honda Pilot.
Should the tail be lifted so as to not create pressures under the wing?
Would you ever use the wing tie downs to hold back under full power? I was thinking I need to hold the gear legs somehow?
Other suggestions for run-in, break-in always appreciated.
Ideas appreciated......
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Dave,
Here are ECI's procedures. Since you have their cylinders, I recommend following their procedures.
http://www.eci.aero/pdf/BreakInInstructions.pdf
Page 6 is where the most relevant procedures begin.
I think you will be VERY unhappy with your results if you attempt to run the engine for a lengthy period on the ground. There isn't enough airflow to properly cool the engine, so you won't be able to maintain a high enough power setting to seat the rings. All you'll do is glaze the cylinders.
__________________
Kyle Boatright
Marietta, GA
2001 RV-6 N46KB
2019(?) RV-10
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11-17-2011, 09:36 PM
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Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston
Posts: 2,043
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Fly it. You don't want glazed cylinders. Been there, done that.
Unless you have a test stand with proper cooling system and a way to load the engine, you're making a mistake trying to break in an engine on the ground.
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11-17-2011, 11:07 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: KTCY
Posts: 643
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What LowPass said...
You don't want to rebuild your rebuild O-360. 
You can't properly break it in on the ground without damaging the engine
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Pass
Fly it. You don't want glazed cylinders. Been there, done that. ....
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__________________
Dave & Trina
RV-9A Flying  - 330 Hrs. Painted  Finishing the interior.
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11-18-2011, 05:16 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Stuart, FL /Hartford, CT/Virgin Gorda,BVI
Posts: 3,144
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good thing you posted this. now go out and do the right thing!!!!! 
__________________
TURBO YES =VAF= Payed Jan2021
Ed D'Arcy
RV6-A 5,200+ hrs, R-44 1,600 hrs, Helicycle traded for 33 FFR coupe, gyro sold,35,000 miles flown in 2015 
Stuart, Fl / S WINDSOR,Ct / Virgin Gorda, BVI - under major repair from hurricane damage
VAF #840 EAA AOPA FAC FABA QB SPA
addicted pickle ball player
https://i.postimg.cc/tn3h4svg/IMG-3101.jpg
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11-18-2011, 11:34 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Central Oregon
Posts: 106
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Hello Dave,
All good advice above…. Plus any ground run discussion is probably not complete without this video…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHt6nYTdmRQ
pk
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11-18-2011, 12:42 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Taylorsville, GA
Posts: 748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkill
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Good grief - Yeah, don't do THAT!
__________________
Jeff Rhodes - Taylorsville, GA
RV-9, 7 - going fast
BC-12D - going slow
jrhodes@v1salesmgt.com
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