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  #1  
Old 11-17-2011, 08:13 PM
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dsmithlib dsmithlib is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Libertyville, Illinois
Posts: 54
Default How should I tie down RV-7 for engine run in?

The good news: it's finally time to run the engine for the first engine run.

The bad news: My rebuilt O360 has new ECI Titan cylinders that have never been 'run in'. So, I need to fire it up and run at some pretty high RPM and temps for the first 60-90 minutes to start the ring seating process properly.

The bottom line is that I need some best practice advice on how to hold back my RV7 with the Catto prop spinning fast. I have considered tying the tailwheel to my Honda Pilot.

Should the tail be lifted so as to not create pressures under the wing?

Would you ever use the wing tie downs to hold back under full power? I was thinking I need to hold the gear legs somehow?

Other suggestions for run-in, break-in always appreciated.

Ideas appreciated......
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  #2  
Old 11-17-2011, 08:30 PM
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hydroguy2 hydroguy2 is offline
 
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Location: Townsend, Montana
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tie down the tail to the ground. chock the wheels. and Minimize the ground time.
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  #3  
Old 11-17-2011, 08:38 PM
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DanBaier DanBaier is offline
 
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With my new jugs that had never run before (replaced 4 due to group B ECi) the initial ring seating took place in only about 3/10ths of an hour (based on CHT dropping significantly). These were the Nickel-Carbide cylinders.

I had only done two brief starts of the engine before launching (albeit not the first flight) - limiting each to less than two minutes or 275 on CHT - whichever came first. (CHT doesn't necessarily tell you what the temperature is on the cylinder wall.) The first start to check for leaks; wait a day, and the second start to make sure I could get enough power for takeoff; wait a day, and fly.

The way I understand it, if you ground run the engine for 60 - 90 minutes without some serious cooling shroud precautions, you could bet on glazing the cylinders. Your best course would be to get high power (more than 75%) but without too high a CHT temperature. Too low power and the rings don't seat - you get blow by and the cylinders glaze; too high a temperature and the oil cokes on the cylinder wall and the cylinders glaze. ECi has some downloadable info on engine break in and so does Mattituck.

I know it's an answer to a question you really didn't ask - just another $.02 for good measure.

Dan
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  #4  
Old 11-17-2011, 09:10 PM
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erich weaver erich weaver is online now
 
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Ditto on what Dan said. Don't be doing any significant time on the ground at high power. Sucky huh? Think about it what it's like with a new plane AND a new engine.

Erich
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  #5  
Old 11-17-2011, 09:12 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 4,420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsmithlib View Post
The good news: it's finally time to run the engine for the first engine run.

The bad news: My rebuilt O360 has new ECI Titan cylinders that have never been 'run in'. So, I need to fire it up and run at some pretty high RPM and temps for the first 60-90 minutes to start the ring seating process properly.

The bottom line is that I need some best practice advice on how to hold back my RV7 with the Catto prop spinning fast. I have considered tying the tailwheel to my Honda Pilot.

Should the tail be lifted so as to not create pressures under the wing?

Would you ever use the wing tie downs to hold back under full power? I was thinking I need to hold the gear legs somehow?

Other suggestions for run-in, break-in always appreciated.

Ideas appreciated......
Dave,

Here are ECI's procedures. Since you have their cylinders, I recommend following their procedures.

http://www.eci.aero/pdf/BreakInInstructions.pdf

Page 6 is where the most relevant procedures begin.

I think you will be VERY unhappy with your results if you attempt to run the engine for a lengthy period on the ground. There isn't enough airflow to properly cool the engine, so you won't be able to maintain a high enough power setting to seat the rings. All you'll do is glaze the cylinders.
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2011, 09:36 PM
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Low Pass Low Pass is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston
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Fly it. You don't want glazed cylinders. Been there, done that.

Unless you have a test stand with proper cooling system and a way to load the engine, you're making a mistake trying to break in an engine on the ground.
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2011, 11:07 PM
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MauiLvrs MauiLvrs is offline
 
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Location: KTCY
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What LowPass said...
You don't want to rebuild your rebuild O-360.
You can't properly break it in on the ground without damaging the engine
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Pass View Post
Fly it. You don't want glazed cylinders. Been there, done that. ....
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  #8  
Old 11-18-2011, 05:16 AM
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good thing you posted this. now go out and do the right thing!!!!!
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  #9  
Old 11-18-2011, 11:34 AM
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pkill pkill is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: North Central Oregon
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Hello Dave,

All good advice above…. Plus any ground run discussion is probably not complete without this video…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHt6nYTdmRQ

pk
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2011, 12:42 PM
JDRhodes JDRhodes is offline
 
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Location: Taylorsville, GA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkill View Post
Hello Dave,

All good advice above?. Plus any ground run discussion is probably not complete without this video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHt6nYTdmRQ

pk
Good grief - Yeah, don't do THAT!
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