Can some of you experienced builders give a brand new builder some tips on back riveting? I have a new 3X rivet gun and a back rivet set and plate with no instructions. What air pressure is recommended? Should I start by pushing down on the collar of the set to fully compress the spring in the tool until the die is in contact with the rivet head before squeezing the trigger or should there be a gap between the tool die and the rivet before firing the gun? Should I try to tap it lightly many times to set the rivet or should I hit it hard just a few times?
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Back Riveting Tips
- Thread starter jpharrell
- Start date
pierre smith
Well Known Member
Welcome, John..
...toVAF.
For 3/32" rivets, we used around 40 psi and after inserting all the rivets, for example, the rudder stiffener, tape them down on the factory head with either rivet tape or Scotch tape to hold them in place. Flip the structure and carefully lay it down on the steel backing plate, ensuring that the heads are contacting the steel plate. Hold the surface down and place the back rivet head on the rivet and compress the spring so that the head is contacted by the back-rivet tool.
Gently squeeze the trigger and hammer for a second or so and measure the shop head diameter with a gauge (9/64" for a 3/32" rivet), or 3/32" + 50%.
Practice on some scrap first and after you do a dozen or so rivets, you'll have a much better feel for the gun and the whole procedure,
Best,
...toVAF.
For 3/32" rivets, we used around 40 psi and after inserting all the rivets, for example, the rudder stiffener, tape them down on the factory head with either rivet tape or Scotch tape to hold them in place. Flip the structure and carefully lay it down on the steel backing plate, ensuring that the heads are contacting the steel plate. Hold the surface down and place the back rivet head on the rivet and compress the spring so that the head is contacted by the back-rivet tool.
Gently squeeze the trigger and hammer for a second or so and measure the shop head diameter with a gauge (9/64" for a 3/32" rivet), or 3/32" + 50%.
Practice on some scrap first and after you do a dozen or so rivets, you'll have a much better feel for the gun and the whole procedure,
Best,
FlyingArcher
Well Known Member
Watch this
Back Riveting 101
It should help
Good luck, back riveting is always my favorite building time.
Back Riveting 101
It should help
Good luck, back riveting is always my favorite building time.
alpinelakespilot2000
Well Known Member
All good advice above. One more I might add--you have a long build ahead of you. Taking a basic build class (or some suitable alternative), however inconvenient it might be with your schedule, will go a LONG way in helping you be successful in the project. It will certainly help you avoid mistakes early in the build (when none of us really know what we're doing) and will consequently, probably save you a significant amount of money in the long run. Good luck.
longranger
Well Known Member
One thing I ran across was that back riveting with the plate on top of my work bench with a 3/4" particle board top left the rivets proud of the skin. Moving it to the concrete floor was harder on my knees, but resulted in a MUCH nicer job.
Also, a 1/4" piece of plywood with a cutout for the backriveting plate and covered with a thin piece of indoor/outdoor carpet keeps the skin level and flat on the plate.
Be VERY CAREFUL to keep up with where the plate is located under the skin while backriveting. You'll start spewing purple air if you zone out and try to set a rivet past the end of the plate. Don't ask how I know...
Be VERY CAREFUL to keep up with where the plate is located under the skin while backriveting. You'll start spewing purple air if you zone out and try to set a rivet past the end of the plate. Don't ask how I know...
Yep, I did that twice!! Not pretty, I had to order a new skin and start over
BSwayze
Well Known Member
I ruined a skin that way, too! It's easy to do when you're on a roll and feeling confident. Take your time and ALWAYS make sure the backriveting plate is underneath the rivet you're about to hammer on.
Doug Lewis
Well Known Member
Thank you for this tip. Did my first back riveting this week. After spending a week polishing a big chunk of steel and aquiring a router to place it in my table top I did the first two stiffeners on the table. The rivets were flush, but I can just barely catch my finger nail on the edge. Placed the plate on the concrete floor with towels around it to protect the skin and the rivets were seated noticably better.
clevtool
Well Known Member
You may want to check the dimple dies if these are the results you are getting. You should be able to lay a razor blade over the finished rivet and have it flat across both the skins and the rivet head. There will obviously be some area around the outside of the rivet, but it should be tight and compact.
.
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longranger
Well Known Member
You are most welcome, Doug!
What I did to protect the skins was to cut holes the size of the plate in a 1/4" sheet of plywood and a piece of indoor/outdoor short-nap carpet. (I don't have photos, I don't think digital cameras had been invented back then.)
What I did to protect the skins was to cut holes the size of the plate in a 1/4" sheet of plywood and a piece of indoor/outdoor short-nap carpet. (I don't have photos, I don't think digital cameras had been invented back then
.)
Paddy
Well Known Member
John,
Just in case you're not aware, there's a local SoCal RV builders get together for breakfast this Sat at 7:00am at Flo's in Chino. This would be a great opportunity to get connected, particularly if you're just starting your build. Lots of experience and enthusiastic support available within this group.
If you'd like to get some hands-on exposure to the process, I'm building a -10 in Long Beach and am coming close to finishing up the airframe. I'd be happy to share what I've learned about riveting, priming, prosealing and other offenses over the course of my project. Bring some parts over and we'll bash some rivets.
Just in case you're not aware, there's a local SoCal RV builders get together for breakfast this Sat at 7:00am at Flo's in Chino. This would be a great opportunity to get connected, particularly if you're just starting your build. Lots of experience and enthusiastic support available within this group.
If you'd like to get some hands-on exposure to the process, I'm building a -10 in Long Beach and am coming close to finishing up the airframe. I'd be happy to share what I've learned about riveting, priming, prosealing and other offenses over the course of my project. Bring some parts over and we'll bash some rivets.
Breakfast
Paddy,
I did see the notice on the SoCal RV yahoo group of the breakfast get-together at Flo's this Saturday. I am currently out of town on business due back in SoCal on friday. I would very much like to get there and meet some of the builders/flyers if I can work it out. You may see me there.
Paddy,
I did see the notice on the SoCal RV yahoo group of the breakfast get-together at Flo's this Saturday. I am currently out of town on business due back in SoCal on friday. I would very much like to get there and meet some of the builders/flyers if I can work it out. You may see me there.
Av8torTom
Well Known Member
Plate inset in bench top
My plate is from Avery, and is inset into my particle board bench top. I put two 2x4s under the table where the plate is located. My back rivets are perfect with a 3x gun, 40 psi, and about 5 taps on the gun. It's very important to press down on the pieces you're riveting with your fingers holding them tight against the plate. Don't rely on the back rivet set spring collar to do this. A finger pressing down on either side of the rivet is important. Also, when riveting a stiffener for example, I start in the middle, then the ends, then keep halving the distance. ALWAYS check the pressure setting on the compressor before you start. 90 psi will make a mess... ask me how I know
My plate is from Avery, and is inset into my particle board bench top. I put two 2x4s under the table where the plate is located. My back rivets are perfect with a 3x gun, 40 psi, and about 5 taps on the gun. It's very important to press down on the pieces you're riveting with your fingers holding them tight against the plate. Don't rely on the back rivet set spring collar to do this. A finger pressing down on either side of the rivet is important. Also, when riveting a stiffener for example, I start in the middle, then the ends, then keep halving the distance. ALWAYS check the pressure setting on the compressor before you start. 90 psi will make a mess... ask me how I know
