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  #31  
Old 05-19-2021, 12:55 PM
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Mel Mel is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyLucas View Post
Your use of "release" refers to releasing the cleco. I specifically said "release the pliers," as in stop squeezing the pliers, as in let go. Put the cleco in the hole, release the pliers, parts clamped. We all understand how they work. Phraseology is important.
As Scott implied in his response, simply twisting the body or plunger after the cleco has been installed will do nothing. Once it's clamped down you'd have to wobble the top off its axis in a circular motion while you watch the back side to see when it get's into the alignment you want. My question is why is it preferable to do that when you can just put the thing in the orientation you want before you let go of the pliers?
Never mind!
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  #32  
Old 05-19-2021, 12:57 PM
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BobbyLucas BobbyLucas is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mel View Post
Never mind!
You can rotate the cleco to align the parts before you let go of the pliers!

When the plunger of the cleco is fully depressed there is sufficient friction force between the external body of the cleco and its internals such that you can use the pliers as a handle to rotate the oblong clampy bits to better align the parts.
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Last edited by BobbyLucas : 05-19-2021 at 01:10 PM.
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  #33  
Old 05-22-2021, 02:46 PM
CessnaTPA CessnaTPA is offline
 
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Using Scott's advice of making alignment tools out of old #30 bits did the trick. I used golf balls which works pretty good.
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  #34  
Old 05-22-2021, 07:15 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CessnaTPA View Post
Using Scott's advice of making alignment tools out of old #30 bits did the trick. I used golf balls which works pretty good.
Good idea and makes them easy to find in the shop.
I would put a bit more of a tapered point on them though.
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  #35  
Old 05-22-2021, 09:34 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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I took a short piece of 1/2” aluminum tubing and partially crushed the end so the mandrel of a blind rivet slipped into it but the crushed edges rested on the rivet head. I found it useful for pushing stubborn blind rivets into the holes.
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  #36  
Old 05-24-2021, 12:16 PM
CessnaTPA CessnaTPA is offline
 
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I've been hesitant to force a rivet in worried it could bugger up the hole or create some side loading on the rivet. Would it be better to just drill the hole in those circumstances?

Quote:
Originally Posted by RFSchaller View Post
I took a short piece of 1/2” aluminum tubing and partially crushed the end so the mandrel of a blind rivet slipped into it but the crushed edges rested on the rivet head. I found it useful for pushing stubborn blind rivets into the holes.
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  #37  
Old 05-24-2021, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CessnaTPA View Post
I've been hesitant to force a rivet in worried it could bugger up the hole or create some side loading on the rivet. Would it be better to just drill the hole in those circumstances?
Depends on the situation but yes.
I always caution builders about forcing rivets through a hole because of the light gauge material most of the parts are made from. It is very easy to push the flange or tab of the underlying part away from the skin and then end up riveting the skin to nothing at that hole location.

That is why I recommend using the alignment pins beside a rivet being inserted, and if a lot of them seem tight, to insert rivets in the holes of a large area before setting any of them.
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  #38  
Old 05-24-2021, 09:15 PM
RFSchaller RFSchaller is offline
 
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My process was:

1. Try to insert by hand if no go
2. Push in a center punch and twirl it to ensure hole alignment if no go
3. Try another rivet (don’t know why it works, but sometimes it does) if no go
4. Try my rivet pusher gently if no go
5. Run a drill bit through the hole
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