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01-04-2005, 08:25 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Olney, Texas
Posts: 143
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Bucking bars
 Hello group,
I am having a problem bucking the trailing edge rivets on the tip rib of rudder. Does anybody know what will work? Looking thru Avery's catalog, the no-hole yoke for squezzer might work. Thanks in advance
Brent Colvin
7emp
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01-04-2005, 08:50 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Hicks Airfield, Fort Worth,Texas
Posts: 1,745
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Rivitiing ?
Buck one and pop rivit the other one?. or fill both with West System Epoxi, and move on. Get it flyin,
have fun.
__________________
Jay Pratt VAF #2
RV Central - Builder Assistance
Paul Revere, Borrowed Horse, & Shooter
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01-04-2005, 08:58 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,524
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I popped 'em (I think last two)..
__________________
Radomir
RV-7A sold
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01-04-2005, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Racine, WI
Posts: 235
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The no hole yoke helped in the tight spaces, but I still had to pop rivet the last pair on the rudder bottom (but that's why filler and paint were invented). Speaking of the no hole yoke, I haven't used mine a lot, but when I did, I was sure glad that I had it. It may not be absolutely essential, but it reduces the number of pop rivets and/or headaches.
__________________
Eric Wolf
RV-8A Flying since May 2009, 300+ hours
Mattituck IOF-360, WW 200RV Prop
N184EW
Past President, EAA838 Racine, WI
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01-05-2005, 07:41 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Marion, IL
Posts: 93
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BUCKING bARS
I Made A Hand Squeezer From An Old Pair Of Vice Grips. Grind Off The Teeth And Grind Down The Top And Bottom To About 3/16. Works Great For These Tight Spaces. I've Used Mine Several Times.
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01-05-2005, 07:50 AM
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Administrator
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas, Texas
Posts: 78
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Poor Man's No Hole Yoke
I remember while building my RV-6 taking a shingle nail (wide head) and cutting off most of the shaft - leaving just enough to fit into my squeezer in place of one of the dies. It acted as a 'poor man's no hole yoke' - not very consistantly as I remember, but it worked most of the time. I pop riveted that last rivet in the control surfaces.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericwolf
The no hole yoke helped in the tight spaces, but I still had to pop rivet the last pair on the rudder bottom (but that's why filler and paint were invented). Speaking of the no hole yoke, I haven't used mine a lot, but when I did, I was sure glad that I had it. It may not be absolutely essential, but it reduces the number of pop rivets and/or headaches.
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01-12-2005, 07:01 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: KPYM
Posts: 2,686
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I was able to squeeze them with Avery's no hole hand squeeze.
If you want to buck them, try using a yoke for a bucking bar. It works!
Hope this helps!
 CJ
__________________
RV-7 Flying - 1,200 Hours in 5 Years!
The experiment works!
TMX-IO-360, G3i ignition & G3X with VP-X
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01-12-2005, 09:27 PM
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axe head bucking bar
This is a good place to use your old Boy Scout axe head.( to buck, not to chop)
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01-20-2005, 01:29 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Vancouver, B.C.
Posts: 133
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I just made a thin bucking bar tonight out of a small, 4 inch slab of 1/4inch steel bar.
You can use it for back riveting in those tight spots also. You put the rivet set/gun ontop of the bar, which rests on the shop head on one end, while the other end rests on another bar which acts as the fulcrum for the thin bucking bar which is now your flush rivet set. You bang away with the gun as close to the rivet head as possible and the impact transfers to the shophead through the bucking bar.
I hope I have explained that OK
Cheers,Pete
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