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03-09-2020, 06:43 PM
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sherman, CT
Posts: 1,039
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Hangar floor
Looking to pour a concrete floor for a 50x50 hangar here in the northeast. Any thoughts, ideas or recommendations would be appreciated. Thickness, radiant heat etc:
Thanks
__________________
Jake
RV6 #20477 completed 1991 sold.
RV7 #72018 N767T first flight 11/21/2017
(KOXC)Oxford, CT, (0NY0)North Creek, NY.
1941 J3 Cub skis, floats.
Current Project Javron Super Cub
Thank You Doug!
Last edited by Jpm757 : 03-09-2020 at 07:00 PM.
Reason: Ad
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03-09-2020, 06:47 PM
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Burlington On. Ca
Posts: 189
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Insulation
Consider insulation under the pad if you plan to heat the hangar at some point.
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Al Grant
Flying RV6, O-320, 160hp
Burlington, On
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03-09-2020, 07:01 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 2,967
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concrete
If you a going with radiant heat, put the tubing in; consider multiple zones in case one starts to leak...
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Bob
Aerospace Engineer '88
RV-10-ER
N464RL
Going to Paint at Evoke!
Garmin G3X-T, Barrett EFII S32, CAI, MTV-9B
Dues+ Paid 2021,...Thanks DR+
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03-09-2020, 07:24 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Nevada City Ca
Posts: 266
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Run 1/2 inch PEX tubing on 8 inch centers maximum of 250 feet in length. One you do that you will know how many loops and the size of the manifold. Use the type with an 02 barrier. Make sure to install the insulation on top of the wire mesh and anchor it with Zip ties. I would use a nice wall mount condensing boiler like a Lochinvar or similar. I do them all the time . www.brewerhvac.com
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F1 EVO
Aviat Husky A1B
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03-09-2020, 07:29 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 1,630
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Don't know how feasible this is in your part of the world, but I would paint the hangar floor a light color so that you can find parts that get dropped and unerringly roll into unlikely places.
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RV-9A at KSAV (Savannah, GA; dual G3X Touch with autopilot, GTN650, GTX330ES, GDL52 ADSB-In)
Previously RV-4, RV-8, RV-8A, AirCam, Cessna 175
ATP CFII PhD, so I have no excuses when I screw up
Vaccines kept me out of the hospital but COVID still cost me a month of living, all told...
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03-09-2020, 07:36 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Eatonville WA
Posts: 197
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Radiant
X3 on the radiant. At a minimum put the tube in the concrete. Definite yes on the insulation (foam Board ). Tube is cheap foam board not so much but well worth it. I do it for a living as well and could help with design if needed.
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03-09-2020, 07:53 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Meridian ID, Aspen CO, Okemos MI
Posts: 3,018
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Above it was said to put the insulation on top of the wire mesh. That is incorrect. The insulation board needs to be BELOW the concrete. The wire mesh needs to be IN the concrete for strength and to keep the concrete level when it cracks. The pex pipe goes in the concrete and if you want to fasten it to the wire mesh, that would work. The way I normally did it was level the gravel, cover with a bit of sane to make it really flat, put foil faced insulation board down - foil up, attached the pex to the foam board, then either used WWM or the fiberglass additive in the concrete. (looks like a dog hair finish)
Just make sure you use WWM in the middle of the concrete, fiberglass additive, or rebar in the concrete. You will be sorry if you dont.
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rockwoodrv9a
Williamston MI
O-320 D2A
Flying N376E
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03-10-2020, 03:32 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Oklahoma City, OK
Posts: 1,167
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Make it bigger, lol.
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RV9A
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03-10-2020, 08:13 AM
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sherman, CT
Posts: 1,039
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Recommended thickness?
__________________
Jake
RV6 #20477 completed 1991 sold.
RV7 #72018 N767T first flight 11/21/2017
(KOXC)Oxford, CT, (0NY0)North Creek, NY.
1941 J3 Cub skis, floats.
Current Project Javron Super Cub
Thank You Doug!
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03-10-2020, 09:25 AM
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Senior Curmudgeon
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Dayton Airpark, NV A34
Posts: 16,316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockwoodrv9
Above it was said to put the insulation on top of the wire mesh. That is incorrect. The insulation board needs to be BELOW the concrete. The wire mesh needs to be IN the concrete for strength and to keep the concrete level when it cracks. The pex pipe goes in the concrete and if you want to fasten it to the wire mesh, that would work. The way I normally did it was level the gravel, cover with a bit of sane to make it really flat, put foil faced insulation board down - foil up, attached the pex to the foam board, then either used WWM or the fiberglass additive in the concrete. (looks like a dog hair finish)
Just make sure you use WWM in the middle of the concrete, fiberglass additive, or rebar in the concrete. You will be sorry if you dont.
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Rocky hit it pretty good.
There is a much better product than the fiberglass additive (trade name is Fibermesh) that will even take the place of WWM ( welded wire mesh) or rebar.
Look into https://www.helixsteel.com/ There are other similar products but I am not familiar with them.
I would recommend putting in the floor insulation and heat tubing, small part of the overall cost. You can decide later if you want to add the boiler and assorted hardware to complete the radiant floor heat.
If you do put in the tubing, be sure your concrete finisher doesnt saw cut the slap (for crack control) too deep. With the Helix you may not need to do crack control efforts.
__________________
Mike Starkey
VAF 909
Rv-10, N210LM.
Flying as of 12/4/2010
Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011 
Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.
"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."
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