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CherryMax CCR264SS-3-2 - long shop head?

rdamazio

rdamazio

Well Known Member
Hi all.

Could someone share a picture of what an installed CCR264SS-3-2's shop head looks like? I installed the one on the rudder of my -10, but I suspect something went wrong (cheap tool?), 'cause the shop head looks really long, and not compressed like those of the LP4-3s. I set one on a scrap part to see how it sets, and it looks like the steel head is just making the shop head expand to the sides, but not making it any shorter - does that sound right?

Here's what mine looks like:
IMG_20150622_233009.jpg

IMG_20150622_232952.jpg


Thanks
Rodrigo
 
They are the type that you use for nutplates, right ? You pull the stem out and all you are left with is a "hole" .. and what looks like a "not very well set shop head" :) ... What you have looks exactly what I got on a few nutplates that I had to secure using the same pulled rivet. The nutplates is almost "loose" .... Must say I rather buck with a solid rivet if I can get to it so that I can buck the rivet properly. You can dimple the nutplate or buy pre-dimpled nutplates ... or use the "ops" - I can not remember the MS number - countersunk rivet (they have a much smaller head so no need to countersink a lot in the metal ..
 
JanRV6UK said:
They are the type that you use for nutplates, right ? You pull the stem out and all you are left with is a "hole" .. and what looks like a "not very well set shop head" :) ... What you have looks exactly what I got on a few nutplates that I had to secure using the same pulled rivet. The nutplates is almost "loose" .... Must say I rather buck with a solid rivet if I can get to it so that I can buck the rivet properly. You can dimple the nutplate or buy pre-dimpled nutplates ... or use the "ops" - I can not remember the MS number - countersunk rivet (they have a much smaller head so no need to countersink a lot in the metal ..
Click to expand...

Thanks. Glad to hear that it's what they're supposed to look like :)
This is for the tight spot near the trailing edge of the rudder, where there's no room to buck or squeeze a solid rivet (Van's actually says I should install a cherry there, I was just wondering if I had done so correctly).
 
The recommended blind rivet for structural applications (like the aft most rivet on emp ribs) is MK-319 (requires enlarging the hole slightly).
The CCR rivets are only recommended for installation of nutplates.
 
Cherry is a brand name. There is a large array of rivet types under the Cherry brand, including the pull throughs for nutplates and the struturalones that are nearly as strong as solid rivets.
 
cherrymax grip gauge

There is actually a cherrymax grip gauge you can buy to make sure you use the correct length. I thought a length of 6 in a standard would be the same, but it was a much shorter cherry max. I got a gauge from aircraft spruce.
 
Rodrigo - The rivet looks fine - but its the wrong one for the job ... as said above .. ONLY use that one for securing nutplates if you can not get in to buck the rivet to secure the nutplates - Here is the web link to the full range of pull rivets by Cherry -

http://www.cherryaerospace.com/product/blindrivets

As you can see they have a very comprehensive range .. :)

The MK-319 pull rivet is not made by Cherry - but that is not relevant here - Use what VAN recommends ... and you are good ... :)
 
Yes, I understand there are lots of types of cherries (and I came across a lot of them while trying to find a picture of this one) - I simply followed the recommendation from the manual to use this particular rivet:

Screen%2BShot%2B2015-06-23%2Bat%2B13.44.57.png


Maybe Van's considers it's not structural? Or do people usually replace these with one of the others?
 
Well ... I am not building a 10 .. so can not comment .. BUT ... if its not for a nutplate - Then I would have thought any other type would have been better than the CCR26 in that location !

When you read what rvbuilder2002 is saying (who actually works for VAN's)

"The CCR rivets are only recommended for installation of nutplates" ..

and if that location have no nutplates ... Well I know what I would have done ... I would have gone with the MK-319 ...
 
Rivet

JanRV6UK said:
Well ... I am not building a 10 .. so can not comment .. BUT ... if its not for a nutplate - Then I would have thought any other type would have been better than the CCR26 in that location !

When you read what rvbuilder2002 is saying (who actually works for VAN's)

"The CCR rivets are only recommended for installation of nutplates" ..

and if that location have no nutplates ... Well I know what I would have done ... I would have gone with the MK-319 ...
Click to expand...

I suggest a call to Vans and a forum posting of the results. That seems like one of those "gotchas" new builders need to know.
 
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