Clamps

I have found many sources for ADEL clamps and some of the old threads have helped me in finding them. I am still perplexed over some of the clamps that I still need. The MS21919DXX seems pretty prevelent. I have some clamps that came off the engine that have a part number on them of "ADEL 754-4-2-8" They apear to be a steel clamp with a 1/4" hole. I have not been able to locate this clamp anywhere. Another clamp is one that has no cushion on it. It has a part number "TA710D10HT" on it. It too has been hard to find.

One last question on engine hardware. Lycoming part numbers are also giving me fits. An example is the lock washers. Lycoming part nuber is SL160. Does that cross to an MS35333 that is found on most parts houses or is the SL160 made from a different material? The same issue goes for the regular washers Lycoming SL8, does it cross to the AN960? I have found some of these SL part numbers at different parts houses but they seem to be a lot more expensive.

Adel Color codes

You probably have seen this: I have always gone by color coding rather than try and match specific part numbers in Adel clamps- hope this helps

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/adel.html

Thanks AZtailwind. I have seen this but it does not address a part number for a larger hole. I did notice that it said that steel band clamps were purged from the system. It also does not address clamps without cushions.

Well not a lot of response from the thread but, I did find a place for these parts. I also found Lycoming SB 342E that lists all the required clamps and the mounting locations. I found a company TEX-AIR that had all the parts that I needed.

In short, buy all different sizes and a lot of them.

I found they work great to hold both wires and vacuum lines.

Here is a tread on tips for installing those pesky suckers.

Adel Clamps are overkill

forwires and lots of tubes and stuff.

Do this instead.Cut a 1/4" length of 1/4" or 3/8th" or rubber fuel hose.

Take a tywrap (you may need to join two together) pass tywrap through hose, around motor mount...back through hose.

The wire bundle then sits on end of hose with tywrap on either side of wires...join tywrap ends around wires.

No adel clamp and cost nothing, is adjustable for any size almost and does the same thing.

Its the same as tywrapping the wire bundle to the motor mout except the fuel hose acts as a rubber antichaf washer between the wires and motor mount.

Frank

I did mine like this.

frankh said:

forwires and lots of tubes and stuff.

Do this instead.Cut a 1/4" length of 1/4" or 3/8th" or rubber fuel hose.

Take a tywrap (you may need to join two together) pass tywrap through hose, around motor mount...back through hose.

The wire bundle then sits on end of hose with tywrap on either side of wires...join tywrap ends around wires.

No adel clamp and cost nothing, is adjustable for any size almost and does the same thing.

Its the same as tywrapping the wire bundle to the motor mout except the fuel hose acts as a rubber antichaf washer between the wires and motor mount.

Frank

Click to expand...

But where the tywrap goes around the motor mount I place pieces of a bicycle inner tube to keep the hard plastic from touching the motor mount. I was told by my A.P. that they would eventually cut through the power coat.

Kent

Really?

Oh well still WAAAY cheaper/lighter than Adel's and they are universal in size..

None of this..."Oh I'll have 4 of that size and 2 of those and...Oh best order some more of the... and wait a week!"

Frank

frankh said:

Adel Clamps are overkill
----------------
forwires and lots of tubes and stuff.

Do this instead.Cut a 1/4" length of 1/4" or 3/8th" or rubber fuel hose.

Take a tywrap (you may need to join two together) pass tywrap through hose, around motor mount...back through hose.

The wire bundle then sits on end of hose with tywrap on either side of wires...join tywrap ends around wires.

No adel clamp and cost nothing, is adjustable for any size almost and does the same thing.

Its the same as tywrapping the wire bundle to the motor mout except the fuel hose acts as a rubber antichaf washer between the wires and motor mount.

Click to expand...

kentb said:

But where the tywrap goes around the motor mount I place pieces of a bicycle inner tube to keep the hard plastic from touching the motor mount. I was told by my A.P. that they would eventually cut through the power coat.

Kent

Click to expand...

Go here and read paragraph 11-96(b) and (o), then read paragraph 11-146, (a) and (b).

Left alone long enough, a ziptie will cut through the engine mount tubing like a saw - dirt and oil gets between the plastic & steel and acts like a wet saw. I just replaced part of an engine mount on a Bell 412 helicopter due to it being damaged beyond limits by zipties holding drainlines in place. It's been just about a year since this aircraft had last been in to see us (it's in for an annual); there were no zipties on the engine mounts when it last left us.

If you don't want to use Adel clamps everywhere, pick some place other than FWF on your RV...

I've seen this used on a lot of high time RV's ...

Ok mine only has 300 hours but I have yet to find one where it has even sratched the paint.

Frank

Seen plenty of both sides argued on this subject. My guess is that IF the cable tie can rotate at all it has the potential to wear into the metal. Somewhere recently (maybe on VAF?) I read about putting some shrink wrap on the cable tie to help it grip and stop slipping. Might be worth a try.

erich