Small ding repaired...how would you finish this up?

[MacCool]

This little ding/hangar rash on the trailing edge of the right wingtip was there when I bought the plane. It's a chunk out of the gel coat about 2cm x 1cm. I finally got to the repair. I sanded it down, filled it with some epoxy and filler, and smoothed it out and then shot it a little with some color-matched rattle can and from TouchUp Direct, then wet sanded it down to 1500 grit. I have the remaining paint and associated rattle can clear coat...

What are my next steps to finish this off?

[PaulvS]

Most top coats require a primer and there's no mention of priming before the yellow went on, so I'd say:

1. Back up a step, sand off the yellow from the epoxy and apply a compatible primer to the filler.

2. Fine sand to remove the gloss from the surrounding good paint extending out a little around the damaged area to allow for blending the clear coat.

3. Apply several light coats of yellow to the primed spot to achieve complete cover.

4. Apply 2 or 3 light coats of clear extending out over the prepared area of good paint.

5. When the clear has fully hardened rub down carefully with compound to get an even transition between old and new clear coats.

6. For all of the above, avoid over spray by masking surrounding areas.

Good luck, you should be able to get a "good enough" but not necessarily perfect spot repair with the rattle cans. Fortunately it is not metallic or pearlescent paint, that'd be a bit more difficult to do!

[MacCool]

OK, sounds good Paul. Thanks for the help. What should I use for a primer (rattle can)?.

[PaulvS]

For primer I think the TouchUpDirect rattle can primer is the way to go, it will ensure compatibility with their top coats.

[Southern Pete]

To make a lasting repair probably needs some glass... otherwise the plug of filler may just pop off.
Chamfer back 30:1 (or perhaps 15:1 on a wing tip) lay in some glass and epoxy.
When cured grind down slightly low and bring up to level with your filler of choice, rub to 240 grit.
Prime and rub to 400 or 600 depending on top coat paint, flat back surrounding area and mask, will end up with probably 12" of tip flatted back.
Shoot yellow and then clear.
Even though it is only a small ding it may be easier to remove the tip and paint the whole top surface. Or just leave it as a minimum size repair with a plug of filler and a small patch of yellow...

[lr172]

Primer is not really required for a touch up repair over fiberglass. It has benefits, but not required. Many repairs of this size are done without primer and the base sticks just fine. Yellow can be a tough color from a coverage standpoint. If you do redo it, I suggest several more coats of base/color to avoid the bleed through that is shown on the edge of you repair area. The downside of not having primer is having to shoot a couple more coats.

Nothing else is required unless you want to color sand (1500 grit) and buff it out to get rid of orange peel. No wax on new paint for 3 months.

I do not agree that fiberglass is required here. Paint should hold well enough and does not look like anything but pure resin or filler came out in the chip. A repair as mentioned above will make for a much larger area that will stand out from the color differences.

Larry

[MacCool]

Originally Posted by lr172

Primer is not really required for a touch up repair over fiberglass. It has benefits, but not required. Many repairs of this size are done without primer and the base sticks just fine. Yellow can be a tough color from a coverage standpoint. If you do redo it, I suggest several more coats of base/color to avoid the bleed through that is shown on the edge of you repair area. The downside of not having primer is having to shoot a couple more coats.

Nothing else is required unless you want to color sand (1500 grit) and buff it out to get rid of orange peel. No wax on new paint for 3 months.

I do not agree that fiberglass is required here. Paint should hold well enough and does not look like anything but pure resin or filler came out in the chip. A repair as mentioned above will make for a much larger area that will stand out from the color differences.

Larry

Thanks, I was torn on the primer. I elected to just use the color rattle can but the filler showed through despite several coats so I just sanded most of it off. The repair is nice and smooth with no defect that I can feel or see. I’m going to proceed as above with primer – color – clearcoat - buffing - wax. Just ordered the primer from Touch Up Direct. In ordering the color, I did use the same paint code originally specified by the OB. I wasn’t terribly surprised that the match wasn’t exact. Close enough for this little project though.

I appreciate the advice but fiberglass and certainly removing the wing tip is more effort than this project warrants, I think.

[lr172]

Originally Posted by MacCool

I’m going to proceed as above with primer – color – clearcoat - buffing - wax. J

Clear Coat gives off solvents for several months. Most painters recommend 6 months before applying wax. Absolute minimum is 3 months.

[MacCool]

Originally Posted by lr172

Clear Coat gives off solvents for several months. Most painters recommend 6 months before applying wax. Absolute minimum is 3 months.

Yes, so states the label on the rattle can.

[rockwoodrv9]

The primer may not be needed for adhesion, but critical for color match with light colors. I used white primer on the body of my plane and light grey on the cowling. I had an expensive PPG bright red and I was not been able to get it to match. I did a hurried - crappy job on the cowl and it shows. When I sand it all off and repaint, I will use the same primer then topcoat. I will always use the same color primer under anything I paint again.

Good luck.