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  #11  
Old 06-07-2022, 10:45 AM
ColoradoSolar ColoradoSolar is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Westcliffe, Colorado
Posts: 201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Lewis View Post
That was not my question.
- The fact that the new flap motor has a built in position *sensor* means we don't need an external flap position *sensor* to drive the flap display on the EFIS. That's nice.
- If we want a flap *controller* to set the flaps at various presets such as -3/0/half/full (that's the job of the FPS) we need something in addition to the flap motor retrofit. Van's says the existing FPS (which I have) won't work with the new motor.
I got what you are asking now. I don't know of a standalone "controller" as I have a Garmin system that includes that functionality.
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RV-6A Tip-Up Bought Flying
RV-10 #42451
Empennage - Complete (except fiberglass)
Wings - Working on the tanks (waiting for cooler days)
Fuselage - Attaching the tailcone (survived section 29)
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2022, 11:35 AM
raabs raabs is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 136
Default Pics

Here are a few pics. Remove rivets that hold the old bracket, drill four new holes each side of tunnel, rivet in new bracket in new location, install motor. Of course, a bit of prepping and priming... Took about 3.5 hours on a not yet flying -10 that was already accessible. As previously mentioned, no big reason to change an already flying -10.

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RV-10 Under Construction
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2022, 01:25 PM
raabs raabs is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 136
Default Flap Motor Retrofit Corrections to Vans Instructions

@rvbuilder2002

Flap Motor Retrofit instructions Corrections OP-65: RV-10

1) OP 64-01, Figure 2, an 8th rivet needs to be removed (plans indicates 7 rivets) - the one to the left of the shaded area is the 8th rivet that must be removed. The hole is used for riveting one of the holes on the new bracket.

2) OP 64-04 Figure 1, Two washers - NAS1149F0563P - are needed under the castle nut in order to remove the end play. Without a second washer, the castle nut bottoms out on the AN5-25 bolt before end play is removed.

3) OP 64-05 figure 1, The 6x NAS1149F0332P are the thin washers. They bottom out on the bracket/nutplate before they are tight. They need to be replaced with "standard" thicker washers (don't know the part number).

Greg/Scott -Hope you get this and pass on.
Cheers
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RV-10 Under Construction
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  #14  
Old 06-07-2022, 07:51 PM
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Tony Kirk Tony Kirk is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: KDUH
Posts: 137
Default OP-64 Errors

Thanks for posting your installation photos and feedback on the documentation errors, I will push this information upstairs to Engineering. I expect that OP-64 and the kit plans pages will be revised sometime in the future.

As many of you suspect, most of the Engineering staff is currently busy with pre-OSH preparations.
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  #15  
Old 06-14-2022, 06:40 AM
bob888 bob888 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fresno, CA
Posts: 320
Default Retrofit flap motor with VP-X

I noticed that the potentiometer in new retrofit flap motor for position sensing calls for a 5v input. VP-X supplies 2.5v for this (pin J1-19) as far as I can tell. Has anyone completed installation with the VP-X with position sensing? Any problems?
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  #16  
Old 06-25-2022, 05:08 AM
Vol88 Vol88 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Posts: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raabs View Post
@rvbuilder2002

Flap Motor Retrofit instructions Corrections OP-65: RV-10

2) OP 64-04 Figure 1, Two washers - NAS1149F0563P - are needed under the castle nut in order to remove the end play. Without a second washer, the castle nut bottoms out on the AN5-25 bolt before end play is removed.
I put a second NAS1149F0563P under the head of the bolt. I also added one NAS1149F0532P (thin washer) between the right bushing and the right bracket to take up most of the slack between the motor and the brackets.

Quote:
Originally Posted by raabs View Post
@rvbuilder2002

3) OP 64-05 figure 1, The 6x NAS1149F0332P are the thin washers. They bottom out on the bracket/nutplate before they are tight. They need to be replaced with "standard" thicker washers (don't know the part number).
My kit had a random mix of thick (0363P) and thin (0332P) washers. I went with all thin washers and they didn't bottom out. I wonder if you received the correct length bolts in your kit.
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Adopted RV10 complete kit 8/19
Donated 2022
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  #17  
Old 06-25-2022, 12:03 PM
Vol88 Vol88 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Elmhurst, IL
Posts: 63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Lewis View Post
- If we want a flap *controller* to set the flaps at various presets such as -3/0/half/full (that's the job of the FPS) we need something in addition to the flap motor retrofit. Van's says the existing FPS (which I have) won't work with the new motor.
My third-hand kit came with the TCW Intelligent Flap Controller, which uses timing instead of flap position. I'd prefer something that uses flap position. Is this a job for an Arduino Nano? I'm not that guy - just asking.
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Adopted RV10 complete kit 8/19
Donated 2022
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  #18  
Old 03-15-2023, 01:01 PM
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dcflyer84 dcflyer84 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Jamestown, NC
Posts: 47
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What does the new flap switch look like with this retrofit kit from Van's? Prob gonna do this to my flying 10. I use just a momentary toggle right now with no limit switches in the system, just eyeballs.
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  #19  
Old 03-16-2023, 01:57 PM
Italiancowboy Italiancowboy is offline
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: College Station, TX
Posts: 57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcflyer84 View Post
What does the new flap switch look like with this retrofit kit from Van's? Prob gonna do this to my flying 10. I use just a momentary toggle right now with no limit switches in the system, just eyeballs.
I use moment switch and eyeballs.
Advantage is unlimited possible positions for flaps.
Disadvantage is unlimited possible positions for flaps ….
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  #20  
Old 03-17-2023, 08:13 AM
raabs raabs is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Clermont, FL
Posts: 136
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Same switch
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