RV-4 Autopilot

[Jvon811]

L.D.,

You are correct, the last two pictures are of the pitch servo setup. The roll servo mounting location in my airplane is as you see it in the picture. The change in geometry I referred to was the pushrod and clearance hole in the fuse structure. My airplane origially had a NavAid Devices wing leveler and that clearence hole (in the pic) didn't fit my GRT Servo geometry.

The only Mod I had to made to the mounting bracket to clear the footwell was to lower the Servo mount as low as possible on the bottom of the aircraft to clear the footwell. Maybe somewhere around 3/4"-7/8" lower than the standard GRT mount (similar to Dynon and Garmin). I just lowered the mounting holes that bolt to the servo body and removed the excess at the top of the mount. The footwell depression clears the servo now by about 3/8".

[Scott Hersha]

Another possible location for the roll servo on an RV4. Easy location to access and inspect.



Photo might be upside down or sideways.

[Fly2eat]

Originally Posted by FinnFlyer

Can easily be in the RV-4 stick well so won't interfere with passenger foot wells.

And the "bracket" attached to the stick weldment is very easy to make.

Finn

That's an interesting solution and would solve several of my issues!! Thanks for posting FinnFlyer!

[Fly2eat]

Originally Posted by blackbeard10

This is how I did mine. I have rear seat footwells. This photo is from gikonhome.blogspot.com. , a super build site from a British RV 4 builder.

He did a fantastic job and a lot of helpful tips and tricks. Thanks for posting. I read his blog some time ago.

[Fly2eat]

Originally Posted by Jvon811

L.D.,

You are correct, the last two pictures are of the pitch servo setup. The roll servo mounting location in my airplane is as you see it in the picture. The change in geometry I referred to was the pushrod and clearance hole in the fuse structure. My airplane origially had a NavAid Devices wing leveler and that clearence hole (in the pic) didn't fit my GRT Servo geometry.

The only Mod I had to made to the mounting bracket to clear the footwell was to lower the Servo mount as low as possible on the bottom of the aircraft to clear the footwell. Maybe somewhere around 3/4"-7/8" lower than the standard GRT mount (similar to Dynon and Garmin). I just lowered the mounting holes that bolt to the servo body and removed the excess at the top of the mount. The footwell depression clears the servo now by about 3/8".

Perfect Justin! I am thinking this will work as you describe.

[FinnFlyer]

Originally Posted by Fly2eat

That's an interesting solution and would solve several of my issues!! Thanks for posting FinnFlyer!

Actually the pictures and pdf file are from the guy that sold me his Dynon servos.

Today I just finished re-making the angle or bracket that attaches to the stick weldment in steel today (had done it in 0.02" alu to check the geometry when I first installed the servo).

Finn

[Fly2eat]

Originally Posted by FinnFlyer

Actually the pictures and pdf file are from the guy that sold me his Dynon servos.

Today I just finished re-making the angle or bracket that attaches to the stick weldment in steel today (had done it in 0.02" alu to check the geometry when I first installed the servo).

Finn

Mornin Finn, do you by any chance have some shots of your re-do on the roll servo bracket?

[FinnFlyer]

Used 4130 1/16" plate. Beefier than needed.
Really the only point I wanted to strengthen was around the 3/16" hole for the link to the servo arm. Should probably have made it with 1/16" alu and enlarged and put a small bushing in that hole.

I'll update this post with more pictures later when re-installed.

Added link to pdf file with dimensions for servo mount bracket. Shows up a a black square below. Click on it to open or download.

Do not take my dimensions as gospel. Mock something up with cardboard or thin alum. Make sure you get the servo throw you want. That link doesn't bind on bend nor servo arm. That you have room for nuts underneath screws (or bolts).

Finn

[Fly2eat]

Originally Posted by FinnFlyer

Used 4130 1/16" plate. Beefier than needed.
Really the only point I wanted to strengthen was around the 3/16" hole for the link to the servo arm. Should probably have made it with 1/16" alu and enlarged and put a small bushing in that hole.

I'll update this post with more pictures later when re-installed.

Added link to pdf file with dimensions for servo mount bracket. Shows up a a black square below. Click on it to open or download.

Do not take my dimensions as gospel. Mock something up with cardboard or thin alum. Make sure you get the servo throw you want. That link doesn't bind on bend nor servo arm. That you have room for nuts underneath screws (or bolts).

Finn

Thanks Finn. That setup will work without affecting the back seat heat or the foot wells. Thanks for sharing!

[Fly2eat]

Originally Posted by FinnFlyer

Can easily be in the RV-4 stick well so won't interfere with passenger foot wells.

And the "bracket" attached to the stick weldment is very easy to make.

Finn

Hi Finn,
What is the bar that parallels the control stick that has the control springs attached at the bottom? It's rather long and runs up the stick in the picture. I'm wondering if there is any reason why the springs could not be incorporated into or on the manufactured servo attachment plate instead of on the bottom of the stick?
L. D.