Tip for Attaching the Cabin Cover

[Bill.Peyton]

I finally decided that everything that needed to be done prior to the cabin cover attachment, had been completed. It sounded so final to epoxy it in place, but I moved forward. I was trying to come up with a way to get the epoxy around the doors, force it under and between, yet keep it clean and neat. What I came up with was as follows. I took new tube of latex caulking and pumped it out till it was empty. I pushed the plunger in the container back out the rear end and cleaned the tube out with water. I mixed up my epoxy and flox to the right consistency and then scooped it into the tube, re-inserted the piston into the tube, put it in my caulking gun and did the job. It worked out great, was neat and easy to clean up.
I intend to put a finish bead over the top using epoxy with micro ballons that will be smoother and easier to sand to a final finish using the same technique.

[Wayne Gillispie]

Good idea Bill. I think I used a big syringe from the farm supply store.

Doing good! Keep movin so we can get the gang together for a trip next summer.

[fehdxl]

Bill, Did you remove the primer where the epoxy is structurally holding the top to the fuselage? I planned on doing it. Nice tip. Jim

[rleffler]

Most stores that sell epoxy have syringes and tubes available. Check out your local marine store.

[Aerosport1]

Using the lord 7545 A/E adhesive here is another great option.

Geoff

[Phil]

Originally Posted by fehdxl

Bill, Did you remove the primer where the epoxy is structurally holding the top to the fuselage? I planned on doing it. Nice tip. Jim

It's not holding anything. It's just a fillet to smooth the transition between the surfaces..

[Bill.Peyton]

I did rough it up, did not remove primer totally. I did purchase a tube of the West system epoxy, but I was not sure how thick it would be and decided against it. I plan on using it for the second filet.

[rleffler]

Originally Posted by Bill.Peyton

I did rough it up, did not remove primer totally. I did purchase a tube of the West system epoxy, but I was not sure how thick it would be and decided against it. I plan on using it for the second filet.

What I meant to imply with my previous post, is that if you want to use micro for your filets, you can but empty tubes and syringes to load the micro into for application.

For the cabin cover, I suspect that should make the job easier and less messy if you apply the micro like you would caulk. I haven't done so yet, but my only concern is to ensure the micro doesn't cook off in the tube if I put too much in at one time.

I have some tubes already that I originally bought for use with proseal. They only hold a few ounces. I'll probably use once, then pitch. I'm not even going to attempt to clean them for a second use. I think I got them from McMaster Carr. I've also seen tubes at marine.com and westmarine.com.


bob

[fehdxl]

Originally Posted by Phil

It's not holding anything. It's just a fillet to smooth the transition between the surfaces..

Phil,

I'm not so sure about that it's not holding anything.

Yes there are 10+ screws each side holding the fiberglass on...but how much surface area is there really on a counter-sunk screw head.

On the other hand, maybe all the strength comes from the foward and aft vertical attach points.

I was just advised to remove all the primer, rough the aluminum well, so that the flox/epoxy slurry has plenty to grip on to well.

Good discussion. Thx.

-Jim

[bcondrey]

FWIW, you can use cake decorating bags (don't need to use the attachments) and then just toss them when done. Very inexpensive and if you're really interested in precision of the bead you can get inexpensive tips. I've also used them for Proseal and they work great!

Bob