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  #11  
Old 03-28-2021, 11:53 AM
penguin penguin is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: England
Posts: 1,103
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Even with a tipper you will spend plenty of time with head under the panel. Get a very thick cushion to make it more comfortable. From my perspective planning to minimise the need to access that area is the best scheme, plus making the panel in sections. Any panel on the forward fuselage will be difficult to seal from the rain, which removes on of the significant benefits of a slider!

Pete
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2021, 12:49 PM
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DeeCee 57 DeeCee 57 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: LSZF
Posts: 621
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Chris, I reworked my riveted panel 3x now... spent countless hours on my back with the manual flap lever on one side and the removed right stick trunnion on the other, both happily working their way into my lumbar and thoracic vertebrates, a real treat
Nevertheless, I would never install those access panels as sold by Vans, or easily manufactured by yourself... money, time spent to install, paint touch-up, probably not watertight, ugly screws even when flush, weight and aerodynamics.

As suggested by others, removing some of the glass gives direct access to some of the wiring. Also having them looms manufactured on a bench and then installed will save some of the pain...
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RV-6.9 #25685, slider, O-360-A3A (carb/dual Lightspeed II), MTV-12-B, HB-YLL owner & lover
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  #13  
Old 03-28-2021, 01:56 PM
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wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 4,373
Default Plan ahead

Not there yet but I made the choice to finish the top skin and windshield before avionics so I'm paying the price. No access panels for me either. I've spent a lot of time under auto panels so I built a deck to lay on. It is the same level as the spar so nothing digs into my back. So far it works.
The panel is removeable. Two 12" panels span from the control panel to subpanel. They are held by hinge pins so they can swing down fore or aft or come out by pulling pins. I plan the Advanced Control Panel and prefab harnesses. Hope it all works out.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 01/01/2021, plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
Empennage, wings, fuse, finishing kit, now FWF
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #14  
Old 03-28-2021, 02:32 PM
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rv6n6r rv6n6r is offline
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Gearhart Oregon
Posts: 313
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I'm on panel 2.0 and took into consideration lessons learned with version 1. Since it's now glass I can get to a whole lot of stuff by just taking out my AFS EFIS. If you have two IFISSess more the better. And in a pinch I can just take out all the instrument screws and pull the panel. The only hassle for me now is the radios / harnesses, I should have had longer service loops and some kind of quick release subpanel where the trays all go through / are supported by that forward bulkhead.

And no amount of access panels is likely to make it easier to get to all the wires running across underneath, never mind things installed down there. (although I seem to remember someone having a way to get up through the belly but that seems extreme).

Don't make the mistake of installing something in your panel such that it makes it impractical to remove e.g. a push-pull control without being on a removable sub-panel. I made that mistake on panel 1.0, lesson learned!
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Randall Henderson
RV-6 / O-360 / CS, 1600+ hrs, 1st flight Sept. 1999
Outstanding Workmanship OSH 2000
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Donated August 2020
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2021, 04:26 AM
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MikeyDale MikeyDale is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Garden City Texas
Posts: 892
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I have two 10" Dynon Screens and can have them removed in 10 min max! I didn't realize this advantage when I planned my panel but it has been a great asset! An allen head bit in a cordless screwdriver and your in business!
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