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  #1  
Old 05-07-2022, 08:56 PM
Vans101 Vans101 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 115
Default Installing Cooling Baffles

Greetings,

I am now...finally...getting around to installing the Vans engine cooling baffle kit on a angle valve Lycoming and I am asking for help/ advice from "those who gone before"

I've studied the two "sticky's" that discussed the dimple and washer (very informative).

First impressions is the instructions that came with the kit are not super helpful and they are on printed paper and it is way too small to read so I am using a magnifying glasses to read. Is there a PDF copy available?

Can you all direct me to a builder log(S) specific to this project? Hopefully someone who had a great deal of time on their hands was able to blog on this project with lots and lots of advice and pictures. Better yet a YouTube video would be a dream come true.

What should I use to paint these when completed? I see some just left the baffles raw aluminum and other have painted so advice on that as well...please...

What have you all used for plug wire pass through the aft baffle?

Anyway...THANKS for your help!!!

Last edited by Vans101 : 05-07-2022 at 09:43 PM.
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  #2  
Old 05-07-2022, 09:56 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Cincinnati, OH
Posts: 2,285
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Hopefully this link will give you a copy that you can zoom out to a detail you can read. I’ve done these baffle installs about 5 times and I’m currently installing it on my RV6 build. I don’t have any videos of how I’ve done it, but following the plans sheets should be good enough. The new baffle kits are much better than they used to be. Just be patient with it and think ahead. As far as paint goes, I’ve always painted mine with high temp rattle can DupliColor engine paint from AutoZone, O’Reilly’s, etc, and it has held up very well. No need to paint it though.
Make sure you seal all openings in the baffle seal material at corners, or anywhere you can see light leaking through from behind in a dark hangar. One square inch of cooling air leakage from above the cylinders can result in as much as a 20% loss in cooling efficiency. I use a high temp RTV available from many big box home stores and auto supply stores - available in different colors. I learned this from articles I’ve read about air cooling/baffle sealing a long time ago, and I haven’t forgotten it. Use a powerful light behind your completed baffles and look in from the front - borrow a boroscope if needed. The tighter you can make it, the better.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10BK...w?usp=drivesdk
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RV6/2001 built 2000/sold 2005
RV8 Fastback/2008 built/sold 2015
RV4/bought 2016/sold/2017
RV8/2018 built/Sold(sadly)
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Cincinnati, OH/KHAO
JAN2022

Last edited by Scott Hersha : 05-07-2022 at 10:00 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-08-2022, 08:55 AM
Vans101 Vans101 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Arizona
Posts: 115
Default

[quote=Scott Hersha;1606972]Hopefully this link will give you a copy that you can zoom out to a detail you can read.

Thanks for the link Scott. Way more clear than the paper copy sent with the kit.
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  #4  
Old 05-08-2022, 09:19 AM
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wcalvert wcalvert is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Anacortes Wa
Posts: 464
Default

The OP drawings are the knees ... there is a ton of info for every model and some of it will transfer across to others as well. Worth the read, good pics and drawings, lots of info to glean.

Cheers
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  #5  
Old 05-08-2022, 09:43 AM
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wirejock wirejock is online now
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 5,354
Default Baffle mod

The installation is pretty straight forward from the OP plans and drawings. I held off cutting holes for spark plug wires till after they were fit. Same with the holes for Carb Heat & Cabin Heat. But a bunch of 1/4-20 1/2" cheap bolts. Temporary use.
Plans have you start with #4. No problem.
#3 is the one with heat issues. Refer to this thread.
https://vansairforce.net/community/s...ght=Baffle+mod
Some choose the washer method, some cut and fab a duct.
Then #1 & #2 sides. No problem if they clear the valve covers. If not, remove the cover, install the baffle, place the civer where it belongs and trace the cover on the baffle. Trim and reinstall.
#1 cowl inlet baffle has a tricky spot where the CS prop oil line passes. Remove the fitting or make a mod so slip the baffle around it. I detailed it on my blog. The fit around the cowl inlet is important. Try to get it close.
#2 has the Frankensnorkel intake if you have Horizontal Induction. Easy way is to cut the snorkel in half near the starter and fit each end then glass it back together.
Once the baffles are fit, they get trimmed. Cut the top in increments till the top cowl will go on without hitting. Don't cut too much. Once it clears, use the paperclip method to get the final trim correct. 3/8-1/2".
If you plan a plenum, that's another posting.
Here's my blog for reference photos. Check the FWF page.
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
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Donated 12/01/2021, plus a little extra.
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Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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