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  #1  
Old 05-17-2023, 08:40 AM
XLS+PAT XLS+PAT is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 75
Default How the heck do you get this bolt out?

OK, I want to replace the flap tape and need to drop the flap all the way down to put on the new tape. From inside the baggage area I removed the panel and planned to remove the bolt thats connected to the flap arm.

Its attached to the arm with the head of the bolt facing the fuselage skin. I took the nut and washer off but there is not enough room to slide the bolt out because it is restricted by the fuselage skin. I've been assured by a multi time RV builder that this is the correct way the bolt and nut should be mounted. Have not had a chance to check the plans yet.

Am I missing something here or is there some special trick or tool to get that bolt out?

Thanks

Pat
RV7 KHAF
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  #2  
Old 05-17-2023, 08:45 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest, USA
Posts: 2,745
Default used to be a thing

It used to be a thing to put that bolt in as the flap torque rod was installed.

You will need to remove the flap torque tube to get that bolt out. And put it back in per plans. JMHO

Update: Check your plans, I am not sure which way your plans show the bolt. Regardless, I put it in the way i put it in based on a conscious decision on my part.
Update #2: Thanks for those who chimed in, I will need to check rudder cable interference.
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Last edited by PilotjohnS : 05-17-2023 at 03:35 PM.
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  #3  
Old 05-17-2023, 08:54 AM
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sahrens sahrens is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Battle Ground WA
Posts: 669
Default loosen the flap weldment

The only way I know to get the bolt out is to remove the bolts holding the flap weldment to the bulkhead and the flap bearing block. Then flap weldment can be moved enough to get the bolt out. That is the correct orientation as per the plans on page 33. Installed that way to reduce wear on the rudder cables from the bolt threads.

However to lower the flap you can also remove the bearing at the flap itself. There is a nut on the outboard side of the bearing for installing and removing that bearing from the flap. Remove it and lower the flap. You may need some assistance holding the flap in place while reinstalling the flap bearing. Make sure you torque it appropriately.
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  #4  
Old 05-17-2023, 10:59 AM
Tommy123 Tommy123 is online now
 
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Location: Naples fl
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Default

Remove the bolt from the torque tube, the flap will then lower enough to get the bolt from the flap.
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  #5  
Old 05-17-2023, 11:06 AM
XLS+PAT XLS+PAT is offline
 
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Tommy

Do you mean remove the nut and washer then lower the arm to get the bolt out?
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  #6  
Old 05-17-2023, 11:32 AM
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uk_figs uk_figs is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 1,346
Default Remove lower flap rod bolt

I just did this at the last condition inspection, I removed the bolt at the bottom of the flap connect rod that goes into the flap. I had to position the flap a little to get the bolt out of the last few threads and it may depend on the size of the skin cutout that the rod goes through but it worked for me.
YMMV Figs
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  #7  
Old 05-17-2023, 01:52 PM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
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Location: Half Moon Bay, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PilotjohnS View Post
You will need to remove the flap torque tube to get that bolt out. And do yourself a favor and put it back in the right way, per plans. JMHO
The plans have the head of the bolt facing toward the skin. The reason for this I've heard is to prevent the flap bolt from hanging up on the rudder cable during actuation. The bold head has a much smaller cross section than the nut/washer/bolt end if installed the other way.
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Last edited by wjb : 05-17-2023 at 03:20 PM. Reason: fix description
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  #8  
Old 05-17-2023, 03:01 PM
Scott Hersha Scott Hersha is offline
 
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjb View Post
The plans have the head of the bolt facing toward the skin. The reason for this I've heard is to prevent the flap bolt from hanging up on the elevator cable during actuation. The bold head has a much smaller cross section than the nut/washer/bolt end if installed the other way.
Iím trying to picture what youíre referring to. I have an RV6, so it should be similar. I donít think there is a cable associated with the elevator. Iím guessing you meant your rudder cable? Mine runs along the sidewall, so that could be an issue. My flap actuator rod bolts are mounted with the bolt head inboard, and thereís no interference with my rudder cables on the nut end of the bolt. Of course I have manual flaps, so the geometry might be different. In the area where my cockpit seats are, I ran my rudder cables through nylon tubing, secured at each bulkhead end with snap bushing and some RTV. You could do a similar thing in the area where your flap actuator rod bolt is if thereís a possibility of contact.
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  #9  
Old 05-17-2023, 03:19 PM
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wjb wjb is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Hersha View Post
I’m trying to picture what you’re referring to. I have an RV6, so it should be similar. I don’t think there is a cable associated with the elevator. I’m guessing you meant your rudder cable? Mine runs along the sidewall, so that could be an issue. My flap actuator rod bolts are mounted with the bolt head inboard, and there’s no interference with my rudder cables on the nut end of the bolt. Of course I have manual flaps, so the geometry might be different. In the area where my cockpit seats are, I ran my rudder cables through nylon tubing, secured at each bulkhead end with snap bushing and some RTV. You could do a similar thing in the area where your flap actuator rod bolt is if there’s a possibility of contact.
Sorry! RUDDER, not elevator! doh!

Plans snippet below, for easy reference.
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Last edited by wjb : 05-17-2023 at 03:22 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-17-2023, 03:30 PM
Finley Atherton Finley Atherton is offline
 
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Default

Old thread. Sorry no photos now in my original post #1
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