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Old 03-03-2021, 10:57 AM
edhunter edhunter is offline
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Fredericksburg
Posts: 5
Default So I bought a kit....

Newbie here, wanted to say hello. Iíve been dreaming of building an airplane for some time, and just made a deal on a -6 kit. Iíll go pick it up in a few weeks. Fuselage, wings done, has both -6 and -7 tail pieces. Nothing else yet. Iíll probably configure as a 6a as Iím taking lessons. Mission will be primarily for cross country travel. My question is how to build lightness and proper CG to carry me at 200 lbs, wife at 130, and max baggage.
I found excellent post here....

Originally Posted by Aden Rich View Post
Vans has already done a good job at making his airplanes light. The early RV-6 with a 160 hp and wood prop was a formidable machine and had a lot of performance. That's why he spanked all of the competition when it came out.

Here are some weight savings for the RV-6
1. Lightweight Tail wheels-saves about 1.5lbs
2. Use RV-7 elevators- the counter balance weights are on the ends compared to the -6 using two weight bolted to the inside and closer to the rotational axis.
3. Lighter interior materials-cloth versus leather and don't put carpet everywhere. More noise but with cancelling headsets who cares.
4. Lighter instruments. Most of your digital instruments are less bulky.
5. No vacuum system.
6. Be very anal about hardware bolt lengths and washers. Vans plans never seems to have to correct bolt lengths in there. I got about every bolt imaginable and used thinner washer and correct screws in all the applications. Over the entire airplane, you can save a lot of pounds. It adds up.
7. Don't primer ALCAD parts. If weight is the enemy, why are we painting parts that are already corrosion proof. Look at all the planes that don't have primer and are still flying around....?
8. Be very anal about your engine install and accessories like brake lines. I used all AN3 parts. No AN4 fittings or hoses. You don't need it. They are harder to find and sometimes more expensive but if weight reduction is the mission, then you need to use that.
9. Wood prop or MT/Composite Prop. No metal props
10 Lightweight accessories like Sky-Tec starter, B&C small Alt...ect.
11. Carb versus FI. More parts means more weight.
12. Lightweight flywheel. They make them. They are not cheap.
13. Be very careful on MIL stack up of your paint. Paint can get very heavy if you blast a bunch on there.
14. Use Light weight fillers or bondo. It adds up if you use the heavy stuff.
15. Lightening hole everything allow on the build. All spars that Van approved to lighten, cut the holes in them. It adds up.

Everything I just listed will probably in total cut over 100lbs off your bird. You should be able to get a 180hp RV-6 in the air under 1000lbs. It has been done before.
Looking for engine / prop combo - thinking the titan IO-340 and WW300 prop to start. SDS fuel/ignition and IFR lite panel. Read the -7 finishing kit is 1Ē longer on the nose - does that help or hinder cg? Mimi also interior but want comfortable. Slider with supertraks extension planned.
Welcome thoughts and suggestions.
Never bucked a rivet before but have built many cars, engines, etc.
Cant wait to start!
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Old 03-03-2021, 11:27 AM
PatMac PatMac is offline
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Louisville
Posts: 5

Congrats. Nothing to add with regards to build as I too am purchasing my fist kit -14A. Following.
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Old 03-03-2021, 11:42 AM
DeeCee 57's Avatar
DeeCee 57 DeeCee 57 is offline
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: LSZF
Posts: 586

First, keep it a tailwheeler.... saves a lot of weight, flies faster and better, and of course looks infinitely better

Good list on weight saving items, methinks missing the battery, the EarthX saves some and more, though has some downsides.
Paint is another one.
And many more of the non-necessary gadgets such as autopilot, multiple backup of backups screens, lights if you donít night/IFR fly, elec flaps, etc etc.

You will enjoy flying the -6 no question about it... wishing the best for the remainder of the build.
Life's short... Enjoy

DC aka Dan

RV-6.9 #25685, slider, O-360-A3A (carb/dual Lightspeed II), MTV-12-B, HB-YLL owner & lover
RV-4 #2062 HB-YVZ airframe builder
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Old 03-03-2021, 12:59 PM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 2,887

Ed - sent you a couple of PMs.

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Old 03-03-2021, 08:31 PM
Cubman1946 Cubman1946 is offline
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Selma
Posts: 12

Did you purchase the plane from Minnesota? Sounds like a deal I passed up a few weeks ago. If it's the same one his craftsmanship is really good. Best if luck and happy building.
PPL, Complex and High Performance Endorsements

Donated for 2020

RV 6A Kit In Progress

2 more RV6 empennages

RV 7 wings to re-skin from light hail damage, tail in perfect shape.

1946 A65 J3 Cub Restoration
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Old 03-04-2021, 10:24 AM
edhunter edhunter is offline
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Fredericksburg
Posts: 5

Originally Posted by Cubman1946 View Post
Did you purchase the plane from Minnesota? Sounds like a deal I passed up a few weeks ago. If it's the same one his craftsmanship is really good. Best if luck and happy building.
Yep, glad to hear its in good shape! Looking forward to getting it home.
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Old 03-04-2021, 01:04 PM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 2,126

The CG is going to more of an issue than the gross weight. Rather than the 340, just go for a parallel valve 360.

For the -7 tail: there are two versions, with the -8 or -9 rudder. The -9 rudder has a riveted training edge and large counterweight. The -8 Rudder has a folded training edge and smaller counterweight. The -6 Rudder has a folded training edge and no counterweight. The lightest and easiest on the CG is the -6. If your spouse is prone to motion sickness, the -8 or -9 rudder will make the plane a little more stable in Yaw, but will shift the CG aft.

Put as much installed equipment (avionics, ect) as far forward as you can, Put the battery on the firewall -7 style. Anything to keep the weight in the tail down. That will give you the most baggage capacity.
Colin P.
RV-6A #20603
Complete 5/10/19
I donate every year on my B-Day (in Dec), but donated early in Sep'19.
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Old 03-04-2021, 01:22 PM
Roadjunkie1's Avatar
Roadjunkie1 Roadjunkie1 is offline
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Erie, Colorado
Posts: 140
Default Tail wheel vs

Originally Posted by DeeCee 57 View Post
First, keep it a tailwheeler.... saves a lot of weight, flies faster and better, and of course looks infinitely better
I agree. Once you master a tail wheel you will never look back. A tail wheel pilot can jump in a nose wheel airplane and be right at home. Not usually the other way around with a nose wheel-trained pilot. I learned in a Super Cub 90 before buying my J-3. I suppose I have less than 100 hours in nose draggers. I should look that up some time. The tail wheel will get you into places a nose wheel dare not tread but not all will agree with that. I have heard of many more nose wheels having "service problems" than tail wheels. BUT: it's whatever you are comfortable with. If you are learning, NOW is the time to do a tail wheel! IMHO..........

Good luck with the build! Sounds like you got a good deal. Flying RV aircraft of any stripe is like nothing else! You won't regret your dive into one of the most exciting branches of aviation there is!

PS: MANY builders started not knowing a rivet from a Reuben sandwich...carry on........
RV-4 2860
1946 C-90-8 J-3 Cub
The adventure begins when things stop going as planned - Glen Heggstad
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Old 03-05-2021, 06:11 PM
Eric Minnis Eric Minnis is offline
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Burlington
Posts: 51

I also just bought a kit. Mine is a 6A and Iím a tailwheel guy. If you want to trade parts Iíd be interested. I have all the 6A parts, new, never installed. Looking for the same for my 6.
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Old 03-06-2021, 12:25 PM
QuixoteAg QuixoteAg is offline
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Titusville, NJ
Posts: 19

I just bought my kit in December...RV-6
Chris Rogers
RV6 Snail Build
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