Page 9-07 Step 1

Hello all,

As I was installing the bolts in the hinge parts I was wondering if these needed to be torqued to a certain value, going thru the manual I see torque values on page 5-10. do these apply to any bolt I use?

With that I started looking at my torque wrench and figured out how to set the values. I tried the wrench on the bolts described above and never heard the click but only tried them a little bit. I am afraid that I would over torque them and break the bolt or nut plate. I did set the wrench to 23 in lb as shown on page 5-10. Even trying a much lower value did not make the wrench click. Am I doing something wrong?

Second question, in step 2 you place the bushings between the hinges, there is a warning to ensure that the hinge spacing remains the same. In my case the top bushing on one side is fine, the hinge remain at the same spacing. The bottom one is a fraction too short, it can slide about 1/32 of an inch (measure guesstimate) The hinge remain at the same spacing Is this a problem?

thanks!

Peter

If you are using the 1/4" drive torque wrench that comes with the Avery tool kit there is no "audible" click. You will feel a very slight over center release or a "felt" click. At the very low setting of 25 in-lb the felt click is slight.

Another point is that the nutplates and self-locking nuts themselves have a bit of passive torque, maybe about 10 in-lb for an AN3 bolt. To tension the bolt equal to a 23 in-lb torque you have to set the wrench to about 33 in-lb if the bolt is into a nutplate or a self locking nut.

If you can locate a beam type in-lb torque wrench, you can use it to measure the torque required to turn a bolt in a nutplate. The beam type wrench is a little cumbersome to use in general because in some positions the scale is hard to see and you have to look at it straight on.

Tony

The EAA tech videos advise running a tap through every nutplate (6-32 or 8-32 as appropriate - use boelube when you do.) I HIGHLY advise this based on years of fooling with recalcitrant nutplates and stripped screws at annual time for my Bonanza. I did all mine and they make taking out and putting in the screws a joy(!) instead of a dreaded task. It is easiest to do them right after you install each nutplate rather than after things are assembled. The EAA video assures that no gripping power is lost when the screw is tightened.

Nutplate tapping

I've tried both Boelube and a drop of 3&1 all purpose oil. I actually like the oil better. Easy to clean up with a shot of compressed air to remove all the metal particles. Slows down the build just a little, but I agree that its a good habit to do this just after each group of nutplates are installed. Really removes the fear of stripping the bolt or screw down the road.

thanks for all the replies. Tony yes I was using the torque wrench that came with the Avery tool kit. When you say a over center release, do you mean the torque that I sense becomes less?

And as asked earlier do I have to torque very bolt in the kit? The reason I am asking is that the instructions don't mention anything. Secondly I also use the HomebuiltHelp DVD for the RV12 and they don't show it. They are really good in showing every little step.

I just want to make sure especially after reading about the under torqued fuel line on the front page.

thanks Peter

You want to properly torque every AN bolt in the plane plus anything else that they say to torque. Some bolts you will connect once, remove, and reconnect later. For any final assembly, I torque them and then apply "torque seal" (thick paint in a tube) so I can see at annual time if any bolt has moved. I am told it is a touch your inspector will like! (as long as you apply it correctly...)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/f900.php
Might be available at an auto parts store.
See:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=71636

Also slacken off the torque wrench after you have finished using it. I damaged my bigger torque wrench by leaving it tensioned up after doing the engine bolts. Doesn't work now. Just another thing we novices are just assumed to know...

Cheers...Keith

Bill_H said:

You want to properly torque every AN bolt in the plane plus anything else that they say to torque. Some bolts you will connect once, remove, and reconnect later. For any final assembly, I torque them and then apply "torque seal" (thick paint in a tube) so I can see at annual time if any bolt has moved. I am told it is a touch your inspector will like! (as long as you apply it correctly...)
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/f900.php
Might be available at an auto parts store.
See:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=71636

Click to expand...

I ordered the torque seal right away. I am just not quite clear on the use of my torque wrench, but I just saw an EAA video which I think explains the release the other poster was referring to.

Thanks

Peter

I was able to see how the torque wrench worked and re torqued all the bolts. as mentioned in the EAA video I had applied more torque than required. I was actually surprised how little (lose) it felt.

I understand over torquing to the point where it can damage the treads but 25in lb feels like so little torque. why is so little used?

As soon as I have the torque seal I will apply it

thanks every one