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  #191  
Old 07-30-2013, 02:28 PM
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tkatc tkatc is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike S View Post
May I suggest that if you want the best in vibration absorption, you use a rubber washer under the bolt head/washer in addition to the one under the pump.

And, I would safety wire the bolts.
Mike,
I like the rubber washer idea. Probably not going to safety wire the bolts though. I can barely loosen them when I use the allen wrench due to the "squashed" nature of the platenuts they mate to. If somebody persuaded me to actually go through that trouble I would have to find 10-32 bolts that were drilled for wire because I don't really want to spend the time to drill the holes myself.
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  #192  
Old 08-10-2013, 05:47 AM
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Many of you know I misdrilled the tailwheel spring weldment. With just one cleco and one clamp, the weldment was able to shift causing the misdrill. If I had to do it over I would drill each piece separately.






I discovered moments later that this was a $50 part from Van's and would set me back a few days until it arrived (let alone re-locating the 4 pilot holes). I posted here on VAF to find a few remedies and within an hour I had visited a local welder who quickly fixed my dilemma.



With that behind me it was time to start riveting. These rivets proved very difficult even after bending and shaping the tabs on the aft bulkhead. Some rivets are less than stellar and some of them are just ugly. I probably have a better chance now to drill them out but I fear it may make them worse.



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Last edited by tkatc : 08-10-2013 at 06:16 AM.
  #193  
Old 08-10-2013, 06:15 AM
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Next up is the forward side skins. There are a few parts that get installed and sandwiched in this step as well as a bead of sealant between the skin and firewall flange.


When I went to dispense the sealant on my alreay open tube I notice it was very hard to squeeze the caulk gun. I used a 12" drill bit and drilled into the tube through the tip. I struck oil but much of the sealant had hardened to a point that it was unusable even though I had a nail in the tip to seal it up. This time I was a bit wiser and used a nail, some plastic, and duct tape to seal the tip after use. Hopefully it will be usable the next time I need it. This stuff isn't cheap!! It cost me 2 hours of fuel to pick it up from Glen at 53VG.



Looks like the sealant made a nice bead on the firewall.

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  #194  
Old 08-10-2013, 06:26 AM
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Then the baggage rails go on.



Followed by the mid and aft side skins. Then eventually the aft bottom skin.





Riveting then becomes the task at hand. FINALLY!

I recruited a retired air traffic controller (The guy who trained me actually) to help me rivet since he used to do rivet work for Beechcraft on Gulfstreams. We spent a long day riveting as much as we could....with the occasional "drill it out" break.





We did the forward and mid side skins. I was glad to have his help as the gear towers proved a bit akward to reach into despite the mod I made to open them up.
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  #195  
Old 08-10-2013, 06:35 AM
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Nice looking job Tony.

It must be nice not to have that jig to worry about like we did with the older kits.
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  #196  
Old 08-10-2013, 06:39 AM
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Most of our rivets came out very nice. There is one or two spots in the skin where we dented them with the gun. Hardly noticable though and if I can see them later on I may fill them before paint.





The aft side skins are left for me to complete solo. They are relatively easy for one man. Then I will recruit Butch again when I flip the canoe.



After completing the aft side skins I felt comfortable the structure could be mounted to the rotisserie. The tail support is a must with this rotisserie....if you try to leave the fuse on the stand by itself it will fall to the tail. I have something supporting the tail now but it is not secure enough for my taste. I'll work on that in the coming days.




The nice thing about the rotisserie is that you can flip it over all by yourself quite easily. Here she is flipped for the first time. I have about 1-2 hours of riveting some hard to reach side skin rivets before tackling the bottom skin rivets. Its becoming more and more of an addiction now as I feel like I have an airplane to work on vs just a bunch of parts.
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  #197  
Old 08-10-2013, 06:41 AM
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Yes Paul! I suppose the newer builders are spoiled but we don't know it!
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  #198  
Old 08-27-2013, 02:36 PM
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Riveting the fuse skins is complete except for the forward bottom skins. To torque the nuts and bolts inside the center section, you have to get creative. This makeshift tool did the trick.


Next was the cockpit side rails. Pretty easy.




The seatback support plates were a bit challenging but with the rottisserie...its a breeze.




Then the actual seatback support.


I keep priming all the cockpit parts and will eventually spray the cockpit with JetFlex. I'm just not sure when the best time to do that is....
__________________
My ATC opinion is NOT an official FAA recognized opinion, so any advice you get from me is ONLY my opinion.

Track my RV7A!!

Bought my flying -7A
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  #199  
Old 08-27-2013, 02:52 PM
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Now its time to break out the Grove gear for drilling the weldments. This task is a bit overwhelming considering a mistake here will be quite costly and extremely time consuming to repair.

So I took the fuse off the rottisserie and leveled it out.


I drilled the inner bracket wear plate on the press. Piece of cake with a good bit and Boelube.


Fits nicely.




Trimming the crossmember is essential to fitting the oversized Grove brackets.




Next I clamped 8' aluminum angle to each gear leg for alignment purposes. I have read several write-ups and techniques and I "think" I know how to proceed.
I marked the center of the leg and center of the angle and rested the angle on 2 bolts to secure the angle to the leg. I think this works well.




Then I spent a few hours marking the fuse centerline on the floor so I could take measurements from each angle. It was a time consuming process...I first started with plumb bobs at each end marking the center. then I tried a chalkline between the two. I didn't like the chalkline so I tried a laser line. That works but I had to cover the garage door windows and turn off the lights to see the line. Not a good long term solution. So I used the laser to lay out a tape line. This took time but came out well.

Here is the aft plumb bob through the tailwheel spring bolt attachment hole. I used a spent pop rivet shaft to locate the bob directly in the center of the hole.
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Track my RV7A!!

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  #200  
Old 08-27-2013, 03:01 PM
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I used the center cleco to locate the forward center.




Here is a shot of the laseer doing its job....but the camera can't pick up the red line as the flash goes off.


Tape line complete!!


Now the plumb bobs go on each corner of the angle. Then its time to take measurements, tweak the gear, take more measurements, tweak the gear, take more measurements, tweak the gear....you get the idea...


Here are my measurements. I need some advice here. I think this is good enough but want to check first. I also want to drill now but I am scared the gear will move. What do you guys think of these measurements??


I also had to file away more crossmember on one side vs the other. Is that normal??




It's about a 1/8" difference...
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Track my RV7A!!

Bought my flying -7A
Building an -8! (Fuse)
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