Sealling gaps wing tip skins

[rsipp]

We are instructed to seal the very small gap in the wing walk doubler, but there is no mention of filling the similar gaps in the wing skin junction overlaps. Then there are the much more significant gaps in the wing tip skins. Have any of you filled these with some type of sealer or filler? If not did you have a professional painter fill these areas? Any ideas?

[RFSchaller]

After certification I used Bondo to eliminate the wingtip gaps (I had to trim some excess wing top skin too at the tip). Paint and nonskid took care of the skin overlap and wingwalk. In AZ corrosion is not a big concern, especially since mine is hangared.

[rcarsey]

I used epoxy mixed with micro balloons (fairing filler). Mixed it up into peanut butter consistency and applied it to the wingtips “leading edge” with all the holes in it. Standard prep work beforehand.. scuff the surface.. and I placed electrical tape on the wingskins.. apply the mixture, let it get just a little firm.. then pull the tape off. It left nice edges. Once cured, sand to a round and smooth finish. I temporarily sprayed it with paint to protect from UV while I wait for the paint shop to call me in.

https://youtu.be/_ZgaqdGxXJg?t=812

[rsipp]

Thanks,
Gentlemen, that's what I was thinking too.

[Vantastic12]

Five years ago I sent a message to Van's support questioning the wing tip holes. They sent me back a photo of a new "factory" built RV-12 with the same open holes. I told them that was not up to the standard I expected from Vans.
Apparently, nothing has changed.

I backed the holes with aluminum-backed tape and applied JB Weld to fill in the holes. After hardening, I sanded to contour, primed and painted. Five years later they still look finished and professional I've had several compliments on them.

Good luck.

[CTCole]

I just wrote Van's this week asking the same thing, was told they are normal, and had the same thought about not meeting the otherwise high quality in the kit. It would take so very little change to the tip ribs and/or tip skins to eliminate the holes. So **** tacky. Will add epoxy when the weather warms up.

[RFSchaller]

I was thinking the same about the canopy skirt around the hinge bolts with those huge gaps. I extended my fiberglass skirt edges to get a finished no-gap professional looking product. Unfortunately that makes it necessary to remove the canopy to reach all the avionics bay cover screws.

[BobbyLucas]

Originally Posted by RFSchaller

I was thinking the same about the canopy skirt around the hinge bolts with those huge gaps. I extended my fiberglass skirt edges to get a finished no-gap professional looking product. Unfortunately that makes it necessary to remove the canopy to reach all the avionics bay cover screws.

Just last week I took my canopy off to carefully trim the newly laid fiberglass to the provided template, and was pi$$ed off when I reinstalled it to find a massive gap at the front. So that really IS design intent?? (Ignore the unfinished hinge bolt hole )

(P.S. Sorry for the thread drift. I blame Rich )

[Bob Y]

And I f you don’t relieve the fiberglass around the hidden avionics cover screw, you’ll curse yourself when you have to remove it because you’ll also have to remove the canopy if you don’t. And cap-head screws are cleaner for the pivot bolts too.

[RayMc]

This makes me feel better that I'm not the only one that thinks Van's missed the mark with the Canopy gaps at the pivot area and the wing tip cheese graters.