VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.

  #91  
Old 04-06-2014, 10:21 AM
akarmy's Avatar
akarmy akarmy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Auburn, WA
Posts: 677
Default

Looking great Eric. It's funny how similar our pictures look since we are using the same primer! I just finished putting on the gear with the factory access to the gear towers? Ya that's a fun job. Your's will be much easier I suspect.
__________________
Andy Karmy
Covington WA

RV-8 - Flying!
RV-9A - sold

Dec 2020 Paid
Reply With Quote
  #92  
Old 05-20-2014, 05:16 AM
riseric's Avatar
riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Québec, CNV9
Posts: 470
Default May update

May building time is somewhat hampered by professional engagements that kept me away and will keep me away for about 17 days...
Nevertheless, I did some progress when I could.

I stole an idea of using PVC tubing cut to size for joining the centre section.
The spacers are in place and the bolts installed with just enough torque to keep the assembly snug and not squeeze in the parts. 1.438 inch on the 4 corners!!!


The centre section parts are now bolted and riveted together with the correct distance between them.


Because of the diehdral angle of the wings, the skin edge overlap is bent using this special tool. A small angle is made by rolling along the edge making the 2 skins mate tightly. This must be made prior dimpling the holes.


Just an view of all the seat parts and skins all deburred and ready for priming.


Following advise from fellow builders, a larger relief notch is made on the centre bulhead. This is to make room for riveting a bottom skin rivet there. I enlarged it to 1/4 inch wide.


Again, the 'ol phone is used in the longeron twisting. The required angle is 7.25 degrees but I didn't have 2 decimal points on the electronic level...
7.2 will do fine !!!


I bought a set of longeron dies from Buller Entreprises, (I have no connection to them) a RV builder that did not think highly of the prehistoric bending method of clamping and whacking the longerons. They need to be taped and greased for best results and work very nicely with almost no effort.
The only drawback is that the work in one plane only. With the longer longeron needed to bent in both horizontal and vertical planes, I used them for the bigger bend and whacked away for the other bend.


Rolling the mid side skins. To finish, after the angles are removed the roll is massaged by hand, comparing with the bulkhead helps to check the needed curve. Be conservative as it is easier to install an under-rolled than an over-rolled skin.


The middle side fuselage skins are clecoed on the mid section and the floor. The arm rests are clecoed and drilled as for new rear bulkheads.
The mid and front sections are clecoed together.


The front side skins get clecoed, further joining the forward and middle sections. To get this done easily, I removed all the clecoes on the mid bulkheads and the gear towers (except one to keep the gear twr plate, doubler and longeron in place). I started with one cleco in the lower aft, middle and front then moved upwards. 1 in every 2 holes gets a cleco. This to keep everything aligned correctly, otherwise the front and middle sections don't match. I also used a wood block to support the middle part and align it as close as possible before clecoing.


That's it for now, next RV work will be in June !!!
__________________
Eric,
2021 dues happily donated
RV-8 slow built #83274
Grove Airfoiled Gear, Wheels & Brakes
VPX-Pro, EFII System 32, EarthX batteries
Aerosport IO-375, MTV-9-B/183
Skyview HDX
C-GEMQ, RV-8, flying
C-GNFJ, C72R Cutlass, flying
Reply With Quote
  #93  
Old 07-05-2014, 03:24 PM
riseric's Avatar
riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Québec, CNV9
Posts: 470
Default June update

June was more productive than last month!!

Here are 5 of 6 bulkhead assemblies ready. It doesn't look much but deburring all these is time consuming because of all the nooks and crannies on the contours. The 6th bulkhead is still being worked on.



The tail-wheel mount drilled to the bulkhead.



Here, a side view of the fuselage assembly from the firewall to the last bulkhead.
The photo is taken with the garage door open as the fuselage takes all of the garage lenght.
I have about 10 centimeter of clearance in front and the same in the back.
I will need to re-organise the shop in order to position the fuselage diagonally for increased space.
Otherwise, I won't be able to install the tail-wheel...
Also, I'm almost out of clecos. A bunch of them are not seen here as they are either inside or underneath the fuselage.



Drilling the upper longerons was a bit nerve wracking but clamping them down and working with caution did the trick.



A small heads-up when drilling to size 19 some holes at the base of the gear towers. On the plans, a zoom of the right skin is shown with a pattern for the chosen holes to enlarge. Don't forget to mirror that pattern for the left side skin shown here.



At this stage, the aft bottom and side skins are drilled to the longerons and the bulkheads. That's a lot of holes...



The outer edges of the cockpit rail must be flush with the side skin's outer edge so clamps are used to align them.



Ratchet straps are used to bring the longeron's vertex flush with the upper gear tower flange for drilling.



The front seat back support is clecoed to the fuselage. Nice !!!
__________________
Eric,
2021 dues happily donated
RV-8 slow built #83274
Grove Airfoiled Gear, Wheels & Brakes
VPX-Pro, EFII System 32, EarthX batteries
Aerosport IO-375, MTV-9-B/183
Skyview HDX
C-GEMQ, RV-8, flying
C-GNFJ, C72R Cutlass, flying
Reply With Quote
  #94  
Old 07-05-2014, 03:35 PM
riseric's Avatar
riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Québec, CNV9
Posts: 470
Default June update II

Many builders report that drilling the seat back support can be tricky for 2 main reasons.
First, the hole must be drilled from below through the seat back support.
Second, obviously as seen here, the aft hole is half outside the spacer and cockpit rail.
Needless to say that edge distance here would be insufficient knowing additionally that this 1/8 inch hole need to be enlarged for a screw...



Another ratchet strap pulls everything in place and an angle drill adaptor is used with a mirror for proper drilling. The hole is now correctly done.



All holes for the seat back support done.



The instructions says to fabricate 3/4 inch shims to fill any space between the TW mount and the bulkhead. Some builders don't need these but I found that a 0.040 inch gap needed to be filled. I did two of these that I find somewhat small in surface. I will search and see if larger ones would be more appropriate.



A top view of the mount now drilled to the bulkhead.
Seen also are the 2 small shims at the corners.
I don't like the remaining gap between the mount and the bulkhead between the shims, thus my plan to fabricate a larger, full size shim.



The bottom skin after trimming. I had to shave away more than the template. Mainly to clear the welding on each side of the tail-wheel mount.



From the start of the project, my girlfriend wished to be the first passenger. Here she is, her wish (almost) done with a thumbs up. This is just before putting the assembly back on the work table before dismantling.
__________________
Eric,
2021 dues happily donated
RV-8 slow built #83274
Grove Airfoiled Gear, Wheels & Brakes
VPX-Pro, EFII System 32, EarthX batteries
Aerosport IO-375, MTV-9-B/183
Skyview HDX
C-GEMQ, RV-8, flying
C-GNFJ, C72R Cutlass, flying
Reply With Quote
  #95  
Old 08-05-2014, 01:46 PM
riseric's Avatar
riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Québec, CNV9
Posts: 470
Default August update

After a bit of research and questions put here, I fabricated this full-sized shim for the tail wheel mount, replacing the 2 small 3/4 inch shims.
The centre hole is not quite perfectly round as it contours the welding on the mount.



49 hours of work on the RV in the last month...

That's the time I took to disassemble, deburr, dimple, countersink and prime all the fuselage parts. whew...
Not seen here are the upper and mid-aft longerons and all the skins that are also primed ready to install!!
Time now for final assembly !!!
__________________
Eric,
2021 dues happily donated
RV-8 slow built #83274
Grove Airfoiled Gear, Wheels & Brakes
VPX-Pro, EFII System 32, EarthX batteries
Aerosport IO-375, MTV-9-B/183
Skyview HDX
C-GEMQ, RV-8, flying
C-GNFJ, C72R Cutlass, flying
Reply With Quote
  #96  
Old 08-05-2014, 03:51 PM
rightrudder rightrudder is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,853
Default

Nice work, Eric!

You're at a good place in the build, where you've prepped a big batch of parts and can get on with the oh-so-satisfying assembly phase. (I was just there with my seat backs!)
__________________
Doug
RV-9A "slider"--sold in July 2021
Flew to Osh in 2017, 2018 & 2019!
Donation made for 2021
You haven't seen a tree until you've seen its shadow from the sky -- Amelia Earhart
Reply With Quote
  #97  
Old 10-16-2014, 07:36 AM
riseric's Avatar
riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Québec, CNV9
Posts: 470
Default Fall update I

Since starting this project, this last September was the less productive month. Only ... 3 ... hours done...!!!
Mainly due to work having me travel twice around the world, lol.

Anyway, some work was made before and a little since.

The front, middle and seat sections are joined together now.



The arm rests and side bulkheads are riveted together, then they are riveted to the middle side skins.
The rear arm rests are not riveted to the skins at this time.
Here, the left mid-side panel and the upper longeron are added to the assembly.


A view from the back. When both sides are installed, it's time to rivet the upper longerons to the landing gear boxes and to the engine mounts on the firewall.


Van's standard fuel valve is not compatible with my desired engine configuration (Electronic Fuel Injection and Ignition). The supplied fuel valve bracket is too small for the Andair Duplex Fuel Valve. Duplex meaning fuel feed to the engine and return to the tanks.
After searching and thoughts, I came up with a plan to fabricate a twice as wide bracket using a 0.032 inch plate trimmed to clear the platenuts on the mid-cabin brace. The plate will be held under the brace and longeron by countersunk screws. The longeron is temporarily clecoed with the gusset on the outside so as to keep it flush as if the skin was there.


Here is a pilot's view of the valve.
Missing are the holes through the longeron and the top plate covering all except the knob and face plate of course.
I test rotated back and forth only once and the assembly felt really solid. (Andair suggests to avoid excessive dry turning of the valve)
This is a really well engineered valve and nice looking also !!


Bottom view of it all. Leaves plenty of room to install the 6 fuel lines. The lower section will draw fuel from the tanks and feed the engine while the upper section will channel the returning fuel from the engine to the tanks. My logic here is cooler fuel below, warmer fuel above. The valve operates one tank at a time, feeding from and returning fuel to the same tank.


The requirement of having full fuel return lines to the tanks means 2 lines crossing the fuselage. The centre bulkhead is normally fitted for only one fuel line running from the tank to the selector. I temporarily installed the control column to check for clearance with 2 dummy lines, using extra Adel clamps and all seems OK.


... continued ...
__________________
Eric,
2021 dues happily donated
RV-8 slow built #83274
Grove Airfoiled Gear, Wheels & Brakes
VPX-Pro, EFII System 32, EarthX batteries
Aerosport IO-375, MTV-9-B/183
Skyview HDX
C-GEMQ, RV-8, flying
C-GNFJ, C72R Cutlass, flying

Last edited by riseric : 10-16-2014 at 07:52 AM. Reason: corrected typos
Reply With Quote
  #98  
Old 10-16-2014, 07:51 AM
riseric's Avatar
riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Québec, CNV9
Posts: 470
Default Fall update II

... continued ...

The instructions says to rivet this bulkhead to the bottom skin. 2 things prevents me doing this step. First, the tail wheel mount and the tail wheel spring are not factory drilled as I bought them as extras. It will be almost impossible to remove if the bulkhead is riveted. Second, with the skin riveted, there is no reasonnable room to insert a wrench under the mount to hold a nut, that is tightened on the bolt holding the tail spring.


(I am not affiliated in any way with this brand of drill guide.)
The tail wheel mount is fitted with a guide for drilling through tubes or round stock.


As this is steel, lots of lube, slow drill speed and high pressure on the drill worked fine and the hole is nicely centered.


Same procedure for the tail wheel spring. After the hole was made, the mount and spring were fitted together and the drill bit was passed through using the guide to ensure perfect bolt hole alignment.


The finished hole in the tail spring... Sorry for the fuzzy photo... :-p


At the other end, the tail wheel swivel is drilled to the spring. This time, I match drilled both parts together instead of individually. Once one hole was made, I put a bolt in it to secure the assembly for drilling the second hole.


The mount is final bolted to the bulkhead and the spring to the mount. I bolted the spring at this stage even if the instructions say to bolt it later. Unless I missed or don't understand something, I can't imagine how it's done when the skin is riveted to the bulkhead.


On to riveting the bulkhead to the aft bottom skin. I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the skin as my bolt is a little offset from where it would be if factory drilled. As explained on the previous photo, I don't see how to put a wrench on that nut when the skin is in place.
__________________
Eric,
2021 dues happily donated
RV-8 slow built #83274
Grove Airfoiled Gear, Wheels & Brakes
VPX-Pro, EFII System 32, EarthX batteries
Aerosport IO-375, MTV-9-B/183
Skyview HDX
C-GEMQ, RV-8, flying
C-GNFJ, C72R Cutlass, flying
Reply With Quote
  #99  
Old 10-17-2014, 07:19 PM
Wicked Stick's Avatar
Wicked Stick Wicked Stick is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Marion, MA
Posts: 236
Default

Enlarge the hole so you can insert a socket onto the nut.
__________________
Dave "WS" Rogers
RV-8 N173DR
Reply With Quote
  #100  
Old 10-18-2014, 02:28 AM
riseric's Avatar
riseric riseric is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Québec, CNV9
Posts: 470
Cool Excellent suggestion!!

Hi Dave,

That's an excellent suggestion, thanks!!
I did think about enlarging it, not to put a socket around the nut but I was concerned about the skin being stressed by touching the nut.

Is this what most builders do instead of just drilling it ?"??

It also makes sense maintenance wise!!!
__________________
Eric,
2021 dues happily donated
RV-8 slow built #83274
Grove Airfoiled Gear, Wheels & Brakes
VPX-Pro, EFII System 32, EarthX batteries
Aerosport IO-375, MTV-9-B/183
Skyview HDX
C-GEMQ, RV-8, flying
C-GNFJ, C72R Cutlass, flying
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:15 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.