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  #91  
Old 12-19-2012, 09:54 AM
Brantel's Avatar
Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Default Harness for the GMA240 Audio Panel

Started working on the harness for the GMA240 Audio Panel last night.

GMA240 as you get it in the box:


Whats included:


Started working on the connector with the power connections and option pins. Several pins need spliced connections in order to get all the power and signals in the right places. You must be able to make small inline solder splices for these. I am SO glad that Garmin redesigned these connector backshells. The old style like these are a pain!


First one pretty much done and now on to the second one. Solder sleeves ROCK!


Feeds for all the radio stack and G3X, also shown are the thermal heat shrink labels I am using before shrinking:


First connector complete:


Fruits of my labor. All that is needed to finish this up other than connect to the devices is to crimp on a terminal for the shield terminations (solder sleeves ROCK). I forgot my crimper and terminals at the hangar....


Did I mention SOLDER SLEEVES ROCK? Get em from Stein here.
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  #92  
Old 12-19-2012, 10:36 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Default

Do not try this at home!!!

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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
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  #93  
Old 12-19-2012, 10:00 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Default GTX23ES Harness

On to the GTX23ES harness. This unit is remote mounted and totally controlled by the G3X system and here is what comes in the box:



Here is what you get layed out:




Here is my first go at the new type of backshell and the fruits of my labor. I learned a few things on this go round like:

Even though the directions specifically say to allow the shield drain wire to extend toward the connector, this does not work out very well and for the rest of em, I will make em extend away from the connector.

Give myself a little more extra wire sticking out past the solder sleeve for clearance of the clamp...the recommended amount is in the middle of the range and it is not enough.

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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #94  
Old 12-20-2012, 07:27 AM
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mburch mburch is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
Even though the directions specifically say to allow the shield drain wire to extend toward the connector, this does not work out very well and for the rest of em, I will make em extend away from the connector.

Give myself a little more extra wire sticking out past the solder sleeve for clearance of the clamp...the recommended amount is in the middle of the range and it is not enough.
Hi Brian,

For what it's worth, I terminate these multi-stranded wires at the connector, I usually like to leave about four fingers' worth of space between the end of the wire and the start of the shield and outer covering. That typically gives me enough room to route the wires to the right pins while still keeping the solder sleeve out of the clamp area. If you have pretty big fingers so you might want to go with three.



As you mentioned, I also typically find it's easier to point the shield ground wire pigtail away from the connector and loop it back around to connect to the terminal block. Seems to work pretty well that way. Silicone fusion tape (sold at the auto store as "rescue tape", or available from the usual aviation places) also works well for protecting the wire bundles where the strain relief clamps grab onto them.



Looks like you are having fun!

mcb
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  #95  
Old 12-20-2012, 07:35 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Thanks Matt. Good info...

The 23ES has only a few wires so it was a good one to cut my teeth on these new type backshells...
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Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
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  #96  
Old 12-20-2012, 10:27 AM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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I would like to add a note to all those that may be following this thread and may be considering building their own harnesses.

While this is a very doable task for someone with good electrical skills, it is not trivial. There are hundreds of connections and many places for a screw-up to take place. You must also be able to read the documentation and understand how to integrate all of this stuff together in the right way. There is no step by step direction manual that does this for you, you must do it yourself. It is my understanding that Stein will develop a diagram for you for a reasonable fee and I would recommend that for anyone that is not absolutely sure about their ability to go it alone.

One needs to triple check each and every pin crimp, hole location etc. and then inspect the connector for little whiskers that may be poking out. These can cause major issues down the road if you miss one and it crosses something up. Also be careful to put enough heat shrink on any splices and do not over tighten any of the strain relief clamps. Try and put any splices or shield terminations where they won't be under the clamps.

I highly recommend solder sleeves! Just get about three more times what you think you will need!

Something else to consider is the cost associated with all the materials to make these harnesses is not insignificant. The cost of the wire, heat-shrink, labels, terminals, solder sleeves, shipping etc. all adds up and quick.

It is difficult to estimate the amount of wire and supplies you need and it seems like I am always going to run out of something. Order plenty of extra so you are not stuck waiting on more and having to pay extra shipping on it.

All of this being said, unless you are really into integrating or just want to learn all there is to learn about wiring avionics, I highly recommend that you just order these harnesses pre-made from Stein. I doubt there is much difference in cost by the time you buy all the materials to make em....contact him however for a quote.
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Brantel (Brian Chesteen),
Check out my RV-10 builder's BLOG
RV-10, #41942, N?????, Project Sold
---------------------------------------------------------------------
RV-7/TU, #72823, N159SB
Lyc. O-360 carbed, HARTZELL BA CS Prop, Dual P-MAGs, Dual Garmin G3X Touch
Track N159SB (KK4LIF)
Like EAA Chapter 1494 on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #97  
Old 12-20-2012, 10:40 AM
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Subwaybob Subwaybob is offline
 
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Default Panel wiring

Thanks for that Brian. You're EXACTLY right. I had Stein wire my panel and it still took me 2 weeks to put it all together. I can't even imagine the amount of mistakes I avoided by forcing Stein to build it! Thanks again Stein!!!!
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  #98  
Old 12-20-2012, 10:54 AM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brantel View Post
Something else to consider is the cost associated with all the materials to make these harnesses is not insignificant. The cost of the wire, heat-shrink, labels, terminals, solder sleeves, shipping etc. all adds up and quick.

It is difficult to estimate the amount of wire and supplies you need and it seems like I am always going to run out of something. Order plenty of extra so you are not stuck waiting on more and having to pay extra shipping on it.
I am looking forward to doing my own harnesses but I completely agree with the above. I put good odds that I will end up with all tolled there being 25% or more overhead for me - between ordering extras, discovering I didn't need some things, and shipping costs.

When considering the price from Stein or others vs doing the work yourself, one thing that is not obvious is in the "ordering extra" and "pay extra shipping". If you add these into the DIY cost, I am sure the price difference for ordering a harness narrows quickly.
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  #99  
Old 12-20-2012, 03:58 PM
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tkatc tkatc is offline
 
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Don't forget the 3rd option. The one I will probably choose. Buy everything for the DIY, screw it up, and in the end buy a pre-made harness PLUS shipping! Nothing but the best, Clark!!
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  #100  
Old 12-20-2012, 05:12 PM
humptybump humptybump is offline
 
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Tony, I'm hoping and praying that I won't be paying that piper!

By he time you get to your panel, I may be suitably equipped to help.
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