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  #61  
Old 11-09-2012, 04:51 PM
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rocketbob rocketbob is offline
 
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My Comanche has many, many sheet metal screws in places that have held with no problem for exactly 50 years with nothing more than a hole and said sheet metal screw. Only in places that come apart for regular inspection are tinnermans or nutplates installed. I would not hesitate to run #6 sheet metal screws into the floor and be done with it.
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N9187P PA-24-260B Comanche, flying
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  #62  
Old 11-17-2012, 05:17 PM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Location: Chesterfield, Missouri
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketbob View Post
My Comanche has many, many sheet metal screws in places that have held with no problem for exactly 50 years with nothing more than a hole and said sheet metal screw. Only in places that come apart for regular inspection are tinnermans or nutplates installed. I would not hesitate to run #6 sheet metal screws into the floor and be done with it.
#6 sheet metal screws will never do in an RV-8, Rocketbob.

The forward fuselage panels where the fuel valve is located were completed and the plan shifted gears to install the HS and VS. I decided to skip it for now as there isn't space in the shop to do it. The next task is elevator flight control system so that's where I am now. The parts are cut to size, primed and riveted together. The sticks are in and float freely. The control rod between the sticks is pre set at 30-1/8" as per the plan and is about as close as it gets, the sticks are within 1/2 a degree of perfect parallel.

Don't know what is next with the plan but will find out tomorrow - one task at a time.





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  #63  
Old 11-27-2012, 07:54 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Thanksgiving holiday is over and its back to work on the RV.

Yesterday the elevator servo was installed. I primed the parts in the cold hangar after a shop warm up and then moved them back to warm area for cure. That worked well with minimum primer odor in the shop area. I have a wood box warming oven with a light bulb cycling on a thermostat so the primer is always warmed up ready to go for small jobs.

Frustrating thing happened last week when assembling the servo push rod. One of the inserts to be riveted in the tube simply disappeared. I thought it dropped to the floor and spent over 2 hours on the hands and knees looking for it but it just was not there. Bummer. I contacted Jerry Hansen at Trio and he immediately sent another, being somewhat amused at the event having had it happen to himself a number of times. Yesterday, about one hour after installing the new insert and unfolding a small towel I use to protect the fuselage skin while working inside, there was the lost insert. Evidently it had dropped out of the tube while doing a trial fit last week. I was so impressed with Mr. Hansen's immediate response from Trio, I will return the found insert to him.

I am considering installing the flap fairings later with blind rivets so the floor panels can installed at this time. The plan calls for holding off the floor install until after the wings are installed so the fairings can be fit to the flaps. (the fairing rivet pattern is under the floor panel) Not only that, the flap mechanism would have to be removed also because the plastic bearing sit on top of the floor panels.

As I complained to Ken Scott yesterday, a real pain a builders butt. The question to Vans was are the RV-8 flap fairings cosmetic or of aerodynamic significance. The answer is they are not cosmetic.




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  #64  
Old 11-27-2012, 08:06 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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We used pop rivets on the flap fairings on the -3 David (we actually used -8 fairings) - worked well, and no one has remarked on it. Sure makes building easier!
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  #65  
Old 11-27-2012, 09:32 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironflight View Post
We used pop rivets on the flap fairings on the -3 David (we actually used -8 fairings) - worked well, and no one has remarked on it. Sure makes building easier!
Thanks, Paul. Good to hear someone else is on the same page.
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  #66  
Old 11-28-2012, 08:46 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Default Decision made.....

....the floor panels are going in.

But first there has to be a way to easily sneak wires aft under the floor. In looking around the hangar for something suitable to use, I came across a 6' section of left over plastic irrigation line. It is 3/4" ID, flexible and quite light in weight. Two runs of it were installed, on the left one for servo, elevator trim, nav lights and maybe a mag sensor; on the right one for future battery cables if the aft battery location is ever used. (My battery will be on the firewall as the Catto prop comes in at about 16 pounds) The conduits terminate up front where they are easily accessed, the left under and just forward of the aileron trim bracket, the right a bit further aft. The RV-8 center section has convenient holes in that area for running wires forward.

I considered going to a hardware store and buying some conduit pipe but that stuff is straight and rigid as can be. I also have some black flexible corrugated stuff from a previous project but that material is not smooth on the inside. This irrigation line is smooth, flexible and should make pulling wires through a snap, plus it terminates on the floor where wires will be run under the aileron push tubes.

.....movin' forward in a relatively warm shop.




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  #67  
Old 11-28-2012, 12:38 PM
gorbak gorbak is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 319
Default Use some string

When you add tubing for the wire run, either smooth or corregated, add a length of string and tie it off on both ends in the event you need to pull a wire thru in the future. To get a string thru the wing wire tubing, tie light string to a cotton ball (acquired from the wife's aviation department), loosly so it does not deform the cotton ball, insert in one end, have plenty of string unraveled and loose to reach the far end of tubing and use your air compressor nozzle to blow the cotton ball to the other end. Feed the string with an open palm as this will be at the other end before you can say "wow".
Now, if you ever need to pull another wire, the string is ready to use and you can add another length of string along with your wire you pull thru and you still have a string for later.

Pat Garboden
RV9A N942PT
Waiting FAA inspection
Katy, TX
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  #68  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:50 PM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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The brake pedals are in. Probably should have gone with the in flight adjustable pedals but the switch from ground adjustable would have cost $550 up front with a rebate for the ground adjustable units. I wasn't thinking much about the pedal options when the kit was ordered but did consider it when reviewing the plan a few days ago. The in flight install would have been easier to do but I decided to stick with what I had out of a consideration of time and money. It would have cost close to $300 with shipping and a restocking charge. Not sure the in flight adjustable feature is worth it, the 7 did not have it and was not missed.

The reservoir lines are a mess right now but will be attached to a bracket on a baggage area bulkhead after it is installed. The pressure lines come with the finish kit and will be attached to that bracket also.

Also installed since the last post - the flap motor, fuel tank vent lines, fuel selector valve, the rudder cables, fuel filter attach bracket, and late this after noon, the right fuel line. Slowly but surely this thing is coming together. The fuel filter will be as per the plan (AFP) but the pump will be from Robert Paisley

http://www.flyefii.com/add_components/BPM/BPM.htm

Made that decision yesterday. The AFP pump works well but the pump system from flyefii is less complex and worth a try. Cost is about the same.



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Ran the flap motor up and down to adjust arm travel, it works. Sure hope the grease seals hold up with this motor. Friend Roger Mell has a new motor for his 7, it is less than a year old. I had trouble with the one on my 7 also.



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Last edited by David-aviator : 12-05-2012 at 01:39 AM.
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  #69  
Old 12-07-2012, 04:51 PM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Most of this week was spent on the fuel system. As of the end of today, the plumbing is completed up through the left gear tower. Tomorrow the pump goes in and the final push to the firewall fitting.

It took about an hour to decided how to mount the Robert Paisley pump, about two hours to build the platform, and this is the result.



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The base of the pump has to be 7/8" off the floor to align the intake with the line coming through the gear tower. The objective here is to have as straight a run from the filter to the firewall when the engine pump is sucking fuel, it will minimize the vapor lock potential.

The little platform is made from 4 pieces of 3/4" angle, when they are riveted together the height is almost 7/8". After a piece of red baffle material is installed between the pump and the platform for a little vibration isolation, it will be right at 7/8". The pump is attached to the platform with AN3 bolts and platenuts, the platform will be attached to the floor with LP4-3 rivets.

Hopefully the fuel system will be completed by this time tomorrow.
VROOM-VROOM
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  #70  
Old 12-08-2012, 10:52 AM
David-aviator David-aviator is offline
 
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Don't anyone copy this pump set up just yet.

I finally got around to reading the installation information from Robert and he suggests orienting the pump on the bottom over an issue of trapped air within the pump with it on top.

I have a query in to him about the matter an will report back. I do not believe it is an issue if the pump starts up with zero pressure in the system.
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