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  #21  
Old 10-31-2012, 08:10 AM
SmilingJack's Avatar
SmilingJack SmilingJack is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Hilton Head Island
Posts: 1,105
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Strike,

Here are a couple pictures of my Roll and Pitch servo - Early pics don't reflect the service bulletin to capture the screw on the arm for those who have eagle eyes





Note: the big washer on the roll servo must be ground down or it interferes with floor boards.
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John Mastro
RV-8 (SOLD)
10 years of Awesomeness!
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  #22  
Old 10-31-2012, 11:40 AM
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cjhammes cjhammes is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Bettendorf, IA
Posts: 141
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John and Strike-

My A/P roll servo is located similar to yours. I was able to find smaller washers to avoid interference with the floor. However, I also found my floor stiffner also came extremely close to the servo arm. Once I applied some weight to the floor, I notice there was interfernece. Your situation may be different depending on how far forward or aft of the stiffner you located the servo.

Given the tight space and the joy of drilling out rivets in this location, moving the servor forward is not much of an option. I ended up trimming some of the floor stiffner and will add another stiffner for additional strength.

Curious if others ran into this. Goes to show, as one progress through the build it's even more important to be thinking 17 steps ahead.
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  #23  
Old 10-31-2012, 01:16 PM
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dwrichey dwrichey is offline
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Reedley, California
Posts: 85
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Mike, Aero Led's is adamant about "grounding" the case of their led strobes- not easy to do within the confines of the fiberglass rudder tip. I don't see, though you may have already made, provisions for this.
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  #24  
Old 10-31-2012, 01:53 PM
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SmilingJack SmilingJack is offline
 
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Location: Hilton Head Island
Posts: 1,105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwrichey View Post
Mike, Aero Led's is adamant about "grounding" the case of their led strobes- not easy to do within the confines of the fiberglass rudder tip. I don't see, though you may have already made, provisions for this.
David is correct. I installed my AeroLed's very early and before much new info was out. I had white noise, but it came from my left wing NAV lights only. I re-ran shielded wire to the left wing only and the NAV white noise is gone. I just completed my 2nd condition inspection.....well...and again ran out of time and didn't update the right wing to shielded - I'll get to that someday, but no issues.

But, since you are in pieces! Use the AeroLed shielded wire for ALL connections and you should be in great shape!
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RV-8 (SOLD)
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  #25  
Old 10-31-2012, 02:26 PM
Bob Axsom Bob Axsom is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 5,685
Default It only matter if you think it important to have a possibility of a long term record

Quote:
Originally Posted by NovaBandit View Post
Wow. That build log is old school. Is that made out of PAPER??

It's looking good, and I like the new shop!
Software/electromagnetic or photooptic records require maintenance to survive for years. The paper record can last for centuries without maintenance and be read by a human without support equipment. All I have to do is walk into the den and access perfectly clear tamper free legal records with signatures and dates and printed photo correlation. WOW! NEW SCHOOL you put all of your once in a lifetime event records in a series of non-human readable, invisible coded bits that will never remain constant as long as printed english and feel good about it... In the late 1970s I personally made a determined effort to read the data on a 9-track tape using a small hand tool with floating metal particles that would align with with the charged areas of the tape. It was a very important tape and I spent days trying to develop a method for salvaging any part of it and as I recall it was simple BCD code. I could identify the header blocks, the inter record gaps, etc. but nowhere near the byte let alone the bit level. My point is if it is important to you, you should print it even if you put it in some machine readable form. If you lose the source documents and nothing has been printed your record is very volatile in the meaningful human sense.

Well done original record keeper.

Bob Axsom
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  #26  
Old 11-19-2012, 05:57 AM
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Strike69 Strike69 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 94
Default Pre-Thanksgiving Progress

It has been slow going with all of my travel this summer but with the exception of a couple of short overnight trips to DC, I am home and can work on the TARDIS (an ode to my kids favorite TV show "Dr Who").

The wing build-up continues with the wing tips drilled and fitted to the wings. I am using the Cleveland RV wing tip kit with #4 screws and nut plates. I do wish the -8 wing design had an additional inspection plate toward the wing tip. I am contemplating adding one. If anyone has done this type of mod I would be interested in getting some pictures.



I found a Sherwin Williams product called MacroPoxy. It has a heavy solid content and gives more of a textured feel which is what I wanted for the floors and seat pans. It can be tinted but I like the gray of the base color.





For the control sticks and side panel accents, I am using a metallic cobalt blue. This will be the same color used for the exterior waves/accents.

I did manage to install the roll and pitch servos for the TruTrak GX Pilot but discovered I put the roll servo too far forward so it hits the front seat floor stiffener. A little trimming and adding a second stiffener is the plan.




One thing I have discovered is extra care is required when working in tight spaces like a garage with both wings and fuselage (with horizontal stab mounted). When I was flying F-15Es we called them "Eagle Bites" - injuries sustained when working in and around the aircraft. It is her way of showing love in return!



Happy Thanksgiving to all.
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Mike "Strike" Messer, CFI/CFII/MEI, ATP
RV-8A/F-15E/T-38/T-37/T-6
RV-8A Phase II
N-251WM
Garmin G3X/GTN-650/Dynon D6/GTX-23ES/TruTrak GX Pilot/GDL-39
Eagle XTREEM I0-360-B1HD2 (dual P-mags)
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  #27  
Old 12-10-2012, 06:06 AM
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Strike69 Strike69 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Glen Burnie, MD
Posts: 94
Default Pre-Christmas progress

With the kids coming out in a week and a half, it is time to get things cleaned up and move all of the parts out of the boys bedroom. What better way than to "assemble" the plane, right?

Now that the interior paint is done, progress toward getting components installed is moving forward. The FCP switches, rudder pedals, and controls are in. Once I get the panel complete I will run the wires.



Following a suggestion from one of my helpers who has his own E/AB and reading many recent comments regarding floor access, I installed nutplates under the rear baggage lower deck (every other hole) using flush screws for the bottom and AN515s for the sides.







I added a stiffener on the upper deck to allow more than a pillow to be stored.



My monthly inspiration (and need to clean out the boys bedroom) came in the form of clecoing the upper forward skin.



Now where to put the canopy and engine when they arrive in a few weeks ...

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Mike "Strike" Messer, CFI/CFII/MEI, ATP
RV-8A/F-15E/T-38/T-37/T-6
RV-8A Phase II
N-251WM
Garmin G3X/GTN-650/Dynon D6/GTX-23ES/TruTrak GX Pilot/GDL-39
Eagle XTREEM I0-360-B1HD2 (dual P-mags)
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  #28  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:37 AM
80WD 80WD is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Horicon, WI
Posts: 14
Default rudder cable clearance

Mike:
I'm finishing a RV-8A project someone else started. I would like to use the rear rudder pedals option, but on my project using the idler arms per plans have the rudder cables hitting the gear leg weldment. If I flip the idler arms the rudder cable clears the gear mount but the rear rudder shafts need to operate at a very steep angle. Have you checked you rudder cable clearance?

80WD
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  #29  
Old 12-10-2012, 05:53 PM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,510
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For those who plan on rear seat rudder pedals on an 8A, might I suggest you check out the links below.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...4&postcount=16

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...+rudder+pedals

Charlie
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  #30  
Old 12-10-2012, 05:56 PM
chaskuss chaskuss is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SE Florida
Posts: 1,510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 80WD View Post
Mike:
I'm finishing a RV-8A project someone else started. I would like to use the rear rudder pedals option, but on my project using the idler arms per plans have the rudder cables hitting the gear leg weldment. If I flip the idler arms the rudder cable clears the gear mount but the rear rudder shafts need to operate at a very steep angle. Have you checked you rudder cable clearance?

80WD
Dennis,
Could you either post a photo of your problem as described above? Alternately, email a photo to me. I had no problems, but two other local 8A builders had issues here. From the photos you sent, it looks like you drilled the rudder cable holes in the F-804 assembly at the RV-8 location, not the RV-8A location. The 8A requires those holes to be drilled inboard and lower than on an 8. This is clearly noted on Dwg 11A revision 1. I sent you a copy. Look carefully at section #1, it shows the location for both models here.
The original version [before revision 1] of that drawing did not show this. The change was published in the RVator about 12 or 13 years ago for us "old dogs". Just add the holes in the proper location. If anyone asks, those other holes are just lightening holes. Yeah! That's the ticket!
Charlie

Last edited by chaskuss : 03-23-2013 at 07:21 AM. Reason: corrected spelling error.
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