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  #1  
Old 11-05-2012, 07:28 PM
NYTOM NYTOM is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
Posts: 1,187
Default HELP ! Wire routing over spar in a 6

Has anyone run conduit along the sides of the cockpit under the armrests to get the wiring over the giant spar in the 6.
I'm trying to get as much done as possible before going to the airport and it would be great if I can get all of my wiring done without going through that little hole they provide in the spar. If I do it will I weaken the structure and fall out of the sky someday?
I was thinking 1/2" aluminum tube along both sides through the bulkheads from under the panel back to a spot behind the seat backs. About 6 inches above where the rudder cable's run. If this sounds really dumb to you please feel free express your opinion.
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2012, 08:25 PM
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GLPalinkas GLPalinkas is offline
 
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Location: Venice, Fl
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYTOM View Post
I was thinking 1/2" aluminum tube along both sides through the bulkheads from under the panel back to a spot behind the seat backs. About 6 inches above where the rudder cable's run. If this sounds really dumb to you please feel free express your opinion.
Tom,

It is permissible to cut the web in the spar to a larger size for wiring pass thru, etc. I don't know anyone who has ever run a conduit the route you are considering. Sounds like you are contemplating passing the conduit thru the F-604 bulkhead and I think that would be a major no-no. That's a major structural part.

Here is a photo of what I did in the web. The photo was taken to show the spar chamfer but you can see the web "slot" pass thru. The second photo kind of shows the resulting wiring pass thru. You have to look hard but it's there. The photo is taken from in front of the spar area.



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Last edited by GLPalinkas : 11-05-2012 at 08:28 PM. Reason: added text
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  #3  
Old 11-05-2012, 11:06 PM
6 Gun 6 Gun is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 846
Default wire run

Its ok per Vans to make like hole in other spar giving twice the space thur center run they said its ok to trim as in picture giving more room and not having to cut wire if you ever take wings off.
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  #4  
Old 11-05-2012, 11:42 PM
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OneCharlieKilo OneCharlieKilo is offline
 
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Location: Poulsbo, WA
Posts: 208
Default Can go around instead of through

Quote:
Originally Posted by NYTOM View Post
Has anyone run conduit along the sides of the cockpit under the armrests to get the wiring over the giant spar in the 6.
I'm trying to get as much done as possible before going to the airport and it would be great if I can get all of my wiring done without going through that little hole they provide in the spar. If I do it will I weaken the structure and fall out of the sky someday?
I was thinking 1/2" aluminum tube along both sides through the bulkheads from under the panel back to a spot behind the seat backs. About 6 inches above where the rudder cable's run. If this sounds really dumb to you please feel free express your opinion.
Just another option; I went around the main spar carry through bulkhead instead of through it. I put a small number of wires through a very small hole in the rear spar bulkhead, smaller than the rudder cable hole.
This method is not completely invisible but done neatly it looks fine and is easy to get at if ever need to change wires out or add to the run.
Some of my routing during the build phase, before completely cleaned up and covered up, is shown at:

http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelA...ctricalPg4.htm

and

http://rv6aproject.ckhand.com/panelA...ctricalPg6.htm

wingtip nav antenna and ptt wires running to under seat pan, and strobe power supply wires running aft to power supply behind baggage compartment:



This bundle runs under seat floor for nav light power distribution to wing tips and has wing leveler servo wires that run under seat floor out to wing. Also has ELT wires. The visible part of the wire bundle here is actually hidden by the seat back and cushions so don't ever see this unless pull the seat back forward:



Dynon EDC wires running back to tail mount location for my Dynon D100 digital compass mount:

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  #5  
Old 11-06-2012, 07:06 AM
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Sheldon Sheldon is offline
 
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Default

I have had bad luck with those 'sticky-backs' holding wire.. eventually they un-stick and leave a un-stickable area on the surface. Have used hundereds of them in my line of work.

Sheldon
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  #6  
Old 11-06-2012, 07:20 AM
WingsOnWheels WingsOnWheels is offline
 
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I ran my pitot/static lines under the armrest and through the vertical portion of the F-604 bulkhead. I called Vans first to ask if it was ok to put a hole in the F-604 vertical and they said it was, just to keep it to a minimum and that my one 3/8" holes was fine. The 3/8" hole fit a 1/4" ID snap grommet. If you do decide to run wires under the armrest I would run them as high as possible and then just use a cushion clamp on the underside to support the wires. The wires can then continue aft behind the baggage side panels and forward just under the section of angle between the F-604, through the former and to the firewall. The only place the wires would be visable is by your knee where they exit F-604.
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  #7  
Old 11-06-2012, 11:17 AM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
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Location: NC25
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Some 16 or 17 years ago when I was building my RV-6, I found out that I could run the wires past the SPAR just under the main longeron. There is not a lot of room but there was enough room for tail strobe, tail light, ELT remote phone cable wire, PTT, and headset jack wires. I use a piece of heat sleaving over the wires where it came in contact with the metal.

There is at least 1/8" space above F604E at the top where it meets the main longeron and holds F604B and F604C apart. Ref RV-6 DWG 31 detail A in the upper left hand part of the drawing.

Hope this is helpful and easy to understand.
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  #8  
Old 11-06-2012, 12:47 PM
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woodmanrog woodmanrog is offline
 
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Location: Florida
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Default

Running wires anywhere there is a moving part is a receipe for a problem. I guarantee that the sticky holders that are holding the bundles or even a single wire will come loose and either short out or get chafed by a moving cable such as a rudder cable. (Don't ask how I learned this) If you have to route wiring past a control surface use an Adel clamp or find another route. We have found that drilling an appropriate sized "lightening hole" is OK to route small bundles through without weakening a structure. Good luck and I think you are really smart to post photos and ask advice.
Woodman
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  #9  
Old 11-06-2012, 07:41 PM
NYTOM NYTOM is offline
 
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
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Thanks to all for your help. I got a lot of momentum going from all these travel stories and videos and I'm going to move on this right away. Love Colin's routing of the pitot/static lines and going to copy it. Gary's slotting of the spar makes the most sense to me for my project. I'm trying to complete as much as possible and hoping to just plug in the wings in when I get to the airport to complete my project. Hangars are real expensive and real hard to get around here and although I've been on a waiting list for a while I may have to complete my project in a open tie-down area.
Thanks again to my RV family.
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  #10  
Old 11-06-2012, 10:52 PM
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OneCharlieKilo OneCharlieKilo is offline
 
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Default don't rely on the "sticky backs"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sheldon View Post
I have had bad luck with those 'sticky-backs' holding wire.. eventually they un-stick and leave a un-stickable area on the surface. Have used hundereds of them in my line of work.

Sheldon
Should have added, if you want to use the "sticky backs" and have them work long term, remove the sticky pad, scuff skin and plastic with sandpaper, wipe surfaces with denatured alchohol or similar, and use small dab of adhesive (E6000 or similar) to attach.

There were a few in other locations that I could get at easily that I didn't do that to initially, and yes I've had to go back and glue some of those in place eventually. But they've worked for me and others, and I've had A&P/IA use them similarly with success in the Cessna 140 I used to own (for 337 approved installation of replacement strobe). Clamps are better where you can use them, but for areas you don't want to rivet/bolt/screw a clamp through the skin, these are an option that worked for me.

I wouldn't expect to not inspect the wires during regular inspections and things are pretty visible for checking on things fairly often, so if anything came loose and got close to moving parts, that should be found before chaffing is an issue. The bundle near the canopy latch in my pictures isn't actually touching or close enough to vibrate near those moving parts - angle of shot may be misleading.
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