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  #131  
Old 03-22-2012, 07:26 PM
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bgl bgl is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 47
Default AP AND HEADPHONE

Quote:
Originally Posted by cptbob View Post
I have powered up and yes the wire to the head phone (orn/brn) jacks is +12. I belive the wt/red is to the elt is for future ADS-B, The long yel/grn and prp/yel (vans calls yel/prp)are to roll bar light(works with dimmer) I am still waiting on the AP and headphone fix.
What AP or autopilot fix are there to do I know headphone wire has no place to go Ready to fire up but not sure don't want to burn anything I got a email from Van that they are sending me a longer 00027 harness I am confused.
Bayne
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  #132  
Old 03-22-2012, 10:19 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
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Hint of the day: Today I did a variety of Skyview configuration items, stepping through the installation guide. BTW, the latest version of the Installation Guide and the Pilots's Guide (covering the new features of version 3.3) are at the Dynon Website.

I am going through the Production Acceptance Procedures and got to the electric trim check. Now, I had tested the trim motor earlier with a 12V source, no problems. So I try the panel switch for the first time - NOTHING! Uh oh. Turned out to be the potentiometer in the AV-50000 box. The instructions say that they all come set about mid range. And, that if you turn them too much they go out of the full range and no function will result. Well, this one wasn't wasn't set midrange! I eventually got it set to cycle the trim in 27 seconds middle of the specified 25-30. So if your trim initially doesn't work, try adjusting the pot before trying to recheck all the wiring connections.

To adjust that one pot you have to unscrew the ignition switch module from the pane because the Van's supplied tool is too long. All the other pots are on the side where that is not a problem. Alternative would have been to cut the tool but that wasn't necessary.

Bayne - I do not understand your question above. You will be receiving an intercom harness from Vans with instructions. Regarding that and the autopilot, reread some of the prior posts in this thread. The answers are there. I also did the ground-based part of the autopilot servo calibration today - worked fine!

We have to read the Skyview installation manual and do what it says section by section. There is no alternative.

Bill H.
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  #133  
Old 03-22-2012, 10:27 PM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Location: La Feria Texas
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Bill does the Skyview kit come with engine monitor senders, or does that come with the engine kit.
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  #134  
Old 03-23-2012, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonFromTX View Post
Bill does the Skyview kit come with engine monitor senders, or does that come with the engine kit.
My engine kit came with two EGT probes. The CHT comes from a permanent installation on the Rotax engine - not sparkplug "washers" as you see on many engines. The fuel pressure sensor also came with the engine kit, as did the manifold pressure computer and the oil pressure sensor (which is mounted on the engine, so that one wasn't a surprise).
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RV-6 N466PG Purchased already flying - SOLD!

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The above web blogs and any links provided thereto are not instructional or advisory in nature. They merely seek to share my experiences in building and flying Van's RV airplanes.
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  #135  
Old 03-23-2012, 09:04 AM
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DonFromTX DonFromTX is offline
 
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Thanks for the information Dave.
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  #136  
Old 03-25-2012, 01:57 PM
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Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
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Default Significant Skyview-related problem - No Starter!

Today I was going to charge up the oil system following Larry Geiger's method. 3 QTS in the tank, then careful and sequential engine cranking to build oil pressure. There is also coolant in the engine. All 4 bottom spark plugs are OUT.

Master on. Skyview on. Volts at 12.3.

IGN both OFF. No fuel has yet been put in the tank. The fuel pump fuse is removed.

Even though the wings are not attached, the spar pins are in and there is no spar pin warning. (Both pins do work and have been position-verified to activate the spar warning if either is moved.)

Power to avionics is working (i.e. radio, transponder, and AP servos).

IMPORTANT: The FAN in the Van's AV-50000A box is running as it always has whenever the master is turned on.

+++
So I turn the key for the first time.
+++

The engine spins for 4 SECONDS and stops.
The fan to the AV-50000A (Serial Number 38) has stopped.
No further attempts with the key do anything.
There is no "click" when turning the starter key EXCEPT for the click in the starter switch itself.
Voltage still at 12.3.
Power is still going to the Skyview and avionics.
No fuses are blown.
EDITED - INCORRECT INCORRECT INCORRECT - the 2 amp starter circuit fuse was blown!
The electric trim works.

But - power is NOT going to the spar pins. Moving them out of position does not activate the spar warning light. Also trying to start when holding the spar override switch in makes no difference.

Cycling the master switch several times over several minutes/hours (waits between each one) does NOT result in the AV-50000A fan coming back on. Turning the Master on always results in that satisfying "thunk."

ALL connections to the AV-50000 are tight. There is a 4 amp draw shown on the Skyview with Transponder and AP servos running, 3 amp without them. No increase in amps when starter switch is turned.

I'm sending this message to Vans and intend to call them Monday morning.

RESPONSE: Replacing that fuse seems to have solved the problem. We are thinking that it was a "weak" fuse. Several subsequent cranks of the engine with no further problems. That fuse also powers the fan inside the AV-50000A and the spar pin detection.

Last edited by Bill_H : 03-26-2012 at 04:19 PM. Reason: Include problem solution
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  #137  
Old 03-25-2012, 03:11 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill_H View Post

To adjust that one pot you have to unscrew the ignition switch module from the pane because the Van's supplied tool is too long. All the other pots are on the side where that is not a problem. Alternative would have been to cut the tool but that wasn't necessary.
To allow access to the trip pot with the ign mod. installed, you can cut the adjuster tool in half to make two short tools.
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  #138  
Old 03-26-2012, 01:01 PM
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Default Fuel Calibration with the Skyview

Fuel calibration went very well. Now, the Skyview "wakes up" thinking that there are two tanks installed, both uncalibrated. So - which do you calibrate? The manual doesn't say. And you can only look at one tank sensor at a time during the calibration - you don't want to pick the wrong one, put in a couple of gallons, and then have to empty it and start over! (Remember, the mains have to be on 2 inch blocks to do the calibration per the PAP.)

Well, it is the LEFT tank to use. I thought they might have chosen the right tank since it is on the right side of the plane. But I went to the calibration page for the right tank and saw that the EMPTY tank reading was at 5 Volts - a nice round and suspect number! So I cancelled out of that and looked at the LEFT tank. It said 2.73 V. Aha!

So I began calibrating the LEFT tank and sure enough as I added the required 2 gallons at a time, the voltage went down. When I was all done I edited off the right tank from the engine display pages. For reference here are my numbers:
Gallons Volts
0 2.73
2 2.46
4 2.26
6 2.06
8 1.83
10 1.58
12 1.31
14 0.74
16 0.66
After adding the 16th gallon, the Skyview said "Last point did not change." I accepted that and completed the calibration. The float pegs out even though the tank and filler neck is not totally full at that point.

Van's is looking into the issue with the AV-50000A box. Will report more when I know.
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  #139  
Old 03-26-2012, 01:28 PM
funflying funflying is offline
 
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Location: arvada, co
Posts: 508
Default Tank calibration

It has been a while ago but I did a similar tank calibration on my RV6 and ran into a similar circumstance. It was related to the float geometry.
I had 19 gal. tanks, in the wings, and with the dihedral in the wing, I got to 16 gal. and there was not enough change to progress. So when the tank was full it stayed on full until it got down enough to start the float down and so on. It was really very accurate but I never really trusted it.
I would think with the tank configuration and location in the 12 it would calibrate to at least 18 or 19 gal.

A side note also Bill.....removing the pins from a d-sub, which color tool did you use? I am trying to get the pins out of the 9-pin in back to reconfigure it with the new wires/pins. The tools sent are the red insertion/extractor type and it seems too big. What do you think? Also I thought it was a "little strange" plans 42D would come before 42C but the conversion would have to occur before installation I guess.
My B/O harness EFIS showed up this weekend to include the USB I was looking for. Everything looks good.
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  #140  
Old 03-26-2012, 02:10 PM
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Bill_H Bill_H is offline
 
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Location: Marshall TX (KASL)
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A red-white D-Sub tool came with the Finish kit. Then another one was sent with the Skyview kit. I think it was the one with a copper-colored end (metal) and it was different than the earlier one. (Maybe for those new style wing connector pins?) I used the earlier red-white one to remove pins - the end that fit tightest against the wire going into the back of the plug. For *all* knowledge about crimping, pins, etc - go to http://www.aeroelectric.com/ Great tutorial and explanatory PDF files with up-close photos. A really great resource.

And yes - 42D before 42C! I think that is because if you buy a new RV-12 kit now, you will never get 42D at all because you will have harnesses and hardware (like the ADAHRS brackets) designed to fit SV in the first place.

The PAP procedures say to fill/calibrate to only 16 gallons. I also figured I could do 18. Nope. The float hits. Now remember, you have the main gear on 2 inch blocks and not the nose gear - so you are in a slight nose-down attitude when doing the calibration. And the float is (if I remember) something like 5/8 inch in diameter. So when it hits the top of the tank there is still room for more fuel. The POH says 19.8 gallons full. Some folks fill the filler neck.
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