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  #11  
Old 01-05-2012, 04:15 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Thanks for all the quick input guys!

This is clearly not as simple as it might (at first) seem. I chatted with Mahlon at Mattituck, and he suggested vice grips and a little heat (if a double nut doesn't work). Unfortunately, getting vice grips on the studs with the engine IN THE MOUNT is really not an option (would work great on a test stand). I was curious if there is Loc-Tite on these things, and he told me that the accessory cases come to them with studs already installed, so they don't really have any control over that. What's really neat is that I found the correct "new" studs in a bag that came with Junior's engine, anbd I even have spares!

I took a quick look at spacers - won't rule it out, but there might be an interference problem with the P-Mag - at least in the same orientation that they are installed on our -3. I'll look again when I have time. In the meantime, Louise is going up to Jay's to work on the RV-1 on Saturday, so she can bring his stud extractor tool home. the right tool for the right job. I guess I'll entertain myself with installing power wiring and plug wires in the meantime.

Always good to have threads like this in the archives!

Paul
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  #12  
Old 01-05-2012, 04:29 PM
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mike newall mike newall is offline
 
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We wondered about the spacers causing an interference.

By carefully moving the P-Mag around, we found an orientation that worked well with the tubing, after all it is only an extended stud if you figure.

You do have to play around when fitting the P-Mag - engage it on the studs, then get the washer, tube, washer and nut on and then slide it down - kind of build it as it engages.

I tried to get some snaps for another guy but it is well buried, but I can assure you, that is how we did it.

I think they do have some kind of thread lock because we put a fearful amount of pressure on ours before we gave up.

Ours was a new TMX engine, so it is a good comparison.
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  #13  
Old 01-05-2012, 04:41 PM
fstringham7a fstringham7a is offline
 
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Default RE: CG500 stud extractor

I used the CG500 stud extractor on my ECi engine to change studs for Slicks to P-Mags. Worked !!!!!!!!!!!!! But it was sure expensive but not as expensive or as frustrating as a broken stud on the case!!!!!!!!!!
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  #14  
Old 01-06-2012, 11:57 PM
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OneCharlieKilo OneCharlieKilo is offline
 
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Default heat & double nut method

I was going other direction from P-mags to Slick, but had same trouble changing studs. Used suggestions in thread at link below and eventually had success. I got the heat and double nut method to work, but imagine having the right stud extractor tool would be better / easier!

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=35224
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2012, 12:19 AM
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Andy Hill Andy Hill is offline
 
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Hi Paul et al...

Did this very recently, without the advice of this thread, on a 4yr / 500hr XP-IO-360.

Double nut did not work, but double nut + mole grips (presume UK speak for vice grips) did.

When we first fitted the P-Mag, we did not have the correct studs. I devised some spacers, using 2 large AN nuts, and the larger standard AL pipe slightly drilled out, each side. It worked well as a stud, but did confine the P-Mag to essentially one orientation only. NB You 'build' the spacer into 1 unit which makes life easier - see:




HTH?

Andy
RV-8 G-HILZ
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  #16  
Old 01-07-2012, 03:35 AM
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RV7AV8R RV7AV8R is offline
 
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Default Check new studs carefuly

Paul, I did this recently and double nuts worked on original Lycoming installed studs. When you replace the studs note that the new ones are larger dia on the side going into the case. This makes a tight fit as they go in while your mag nuts turn freely on the other end.
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  #17  
Old 01-07-2012, 07:47 AM
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Thanks for the pictures Andy - I was playing with the idea of spacers yesterday for a little while, and have to decide on the compromise between mounting the P-Mag in only one position versus having to change the studs. On advantage to NOT changing the studs, of course, is the ability to drop in some Slicks at a future date out in the middle of nowhere (if I needed to).

Ah well, I am waiting for the stud puller, and have wiring to do....

And John brings up a good point for those not familiar with studs - they DO have two (slightly different threads on each end! Understand what you're doing before installing them....

Paul
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  #18  
Old 01-08-2012, 05:53 PM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Default Done!

Got the Snap-On stud puller from Jay, and it took about ten minutes to pull both of them - I took my time because it is such a pleasure to use a good tool designed for a particular task....

No worries -- both came right out with no heat. I almost wish I had some more studs to pull, just to use it some more.

Now I can mount the P-Mags exactly how I want them oriented.

Paul
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RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
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Last edited by Mike S : 01-09-2012 at 11:23 AM.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2012, 05:28 AM
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Any photos ?

I'm intrigued how it got hold sufficiently well.
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2012, 07:51 AM
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Ironflight Ironflight is offline
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Default Pictures

Here's the Snap-On Stud Puller - a housing and the proper collet (5/16 for the Mag studs):





And here it is on the engine - screw on the collet, slide on the housing, tighten the nut to pull in the collet, then crank on the thing with a big wrench - stud comes right out!



Paul
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RV-8 - N188PD - "Valkyrie"
RV-6 (By Marriage) - N164MS - "Mikey"
RV-3B - N13PL - "Tsamsiyu"
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