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  #61  
Old 01-23-2020, 11:24 PM
jamlip jamlip is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Palm Springs, CA
Posts: 133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyd Birchler View Post
I do not think I would want the fuel lines housed in the same box/ enclosure as the Earth EX battery or even a Odyssey. I have seen a LiPo battery catch on fire from slight over charge rate. That would not have been good with the battery buried where you could not get it away from the fuel lines should it be arcing or on fire.
Right, that was going to be my next question. I haven't fully committed to that as the battery location.

I can fit the battery on the firewall in the engine bay, but would have to run a long, heavy cable to the starter solenoid over the other side. It would also mean having to pull the battery and battery box out to allow space to change the oil filter (not a huge issue, but somewhat annoying).

Or I could loop the fuel line 180 degrees back down towards the spar, out of the box section, under the passenger floorboard and up to the gascolator.

Or I could encase the fuel line in fireproof sleeve from the pump to the firewall.
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James
Palm Springs CA
1992 O-360 CS RV-6
2020 paid
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  #62  
Old 01-24-2020, 09:49 AM
Boyd Birchler Boyd Birchler is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: IN
Posts: 254
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You might think about a thin stainless or mild steel case/box for the EarthX and place it ahead of the firewall. Might even hang it from the engine mount as long is there are good places for the heavy airframe ground and the A+ wires.

One minus ahead of the firewall is; it gets hot under the cowl especially after shut down. Good fire sleeve for the fuel lines and a secondary steel or stainless box behind the firewall may be a good compromise.

Last edited by Boyd Birchler : 01-24-2020 at 09:54 AM.
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  #63  
Old 01-24-2020, 10:18 AM
jamlip jamlip is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Palm Springs, CA
Posts: 133
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Thanks Boyd. I am going to the hangar today, so I can spend another six hours thinking about it.

I'd prefer it in the engine bay, but hadn't considered the heatsoak issue after shutdown.

I could easily build a stainless box to hold it in its current position.

All this said, I did read a thread on here about an EarthX battery filling the cabin of an RV-8 with smoke. Both occupants of the aircraft were very experienced pilots who managed the situation and landed on a road without even damaging the aircraft. My concern is that I wouldn't handle the same situation as well.
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James
Palm Springs CA
1992 O-360 CS RV-6
2020 paid

Last edited by jamlip : 01-25-2020 at 04:05 AM.
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  #64  
Old 01-27-2020, 12:58 AM
jamlip jamlip is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Palm Springs, CA
Posts: 133
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With the kind assistance of fellow RV owner (and builder, and ex C5 crew chief) Curt Pullen, I moved the battery to the engine bay. We built a rather beautiful box for it, and attached it to the right side of the engine mount with Adel clamps.

Photos to follow when I remember to take some.

In the meantime, here's a shot of my 4 looking lonely

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Palm Springs CA
1992 O-360 CS RV-6
2020 paid

Last edited by jamlip : 01-27-2020 at 01:17 AM.
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  #65  
Old 02-03-2020, 05:50 PM
Radioflyer Radioflyer is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Boston
Posts: 197
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I'm keenly watching and hoping for progress here. I like checking in on this thread because I'm currently thinking I'm just crazy and stupid to be starting an extremely similar restoration project. Wish there were pics of the fuel tank install process. Please keep up the great posts.
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  #66  
Old 02-27-2020, 12:22 AM
jamlip jamlip is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Palm Springs, CA
Posts: 133
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I've been ignoring the project. My RV-4 ate a cylinder, so I replaced it, did the hour of power and remembered how much I enjoyed flying just for the sale of it. So I did a bit more, then went to the Arizona Flying Circus fly in. A few days later, an RV-7-owning friend visited from the UK and we flew basically all week.

I really love my RV-4. It's that wonderful combination of being easy to fly but tricky to master. It's going to be hard to sell it once the RV-6 is finished.

Anyway, went to the hangar today. Called for fuel and had the guy fill my left tank two gallons at a time as I calibrated the gauge. Pulled the top hose off the oil cooler, loosened the spark plugs and pulled the prop through to get oil pressure. Retightened everything, set the Emag timing, and hit the starter...

Nothing.

My ****ing starter solenoid is dead.

So I hand-propped the motor. After a couple of whumps and bangs it sprang to life. Oil pressure is good, prop makes all the right noises (I've never owned a CS prop before). I ran it for ten minutes and shut it off. Major milestone reached.

So now my to-do list looks something like this...

Get a starter that works and fit it to the engine
Install intercom & radio
Patch some of the redundant holes in the firewall with stainless
Fill, calibrate and check right wing tank
Repair the cowling where someone has done a hash job of of the screwed-together bit at the front
Connect-up nav light wiring
Get a condition inspection
Fly

And on my non-urgent list:

Fit gear leg fairings and pressure recovery wheel pants (I have all the parts)
Make covers for seat cushions (the old ones are basically turning to dust)

I'd also really like to fit electric trim to this - since I removed the centre console thing under the panel, the cable is all in the way and looks ugly as ****.

It looks like there was a kit available some time ago, but the cable part has been discontinued. Any leads greatly appreciated!
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Palm Springs CA
1992 O-360 CS RV-6
2020 paid

Last edited by jamlip : 02-27-2020 at 12:26 AM.
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  #67  
Old 02-27-2020, 07:31 AM
Southern Pete Southern Pete is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: England
Posts: 125
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In my view (17 + years of RV6 ownership) manual trim is superior to electric. If you go electric get a switch with quite a strong spring pressure so it is clear from the feel of the switch when you are applying trim. You could not pay me enough to use any of the switches made by Ray Allen.
Pete
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  #68  
Old 02-27-2020, 10:28 AM
jamlip jamlip is offline
 
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Location: Palm Springs, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Southern Pete View Post
In my view (17 + years of RV6 ownership) manual trim is superior to electric. If you go electric get a switch with quite a strong spring pressure so it is clear from the feel of the switch when you are applying trim. You could not pay me enough to use any of the switches made by Ray Allen.
Pete
Thanks Pete. My feeling too - manual over electric every time. It's just in this application, with the centre console removed and no logical place to mount the cable, I think the setup is going to be a bit of a mess.
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1992 O-360 CS RV-6
2020 paid
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  #69  
Old 02-27-2020, 10:45 AM
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Dan 57 Dan 57 is offline
 
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Location: LSZF
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I will of course contradict you 2 gentlemen and state that I would never install a manual trim
Changed from man to el trim on the -4, the only regret was not havin done it in the first place. Installing the Mac motor in the finished elevator was kinda challenging, but doable.
Main advantage is weight, ease of install and looks follow closely behind. Reliability has never been an issue and the standard hat on the stick and toggle on the panel work perfect by just tapping them. And in any case RVs don?t require that much trimming...
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  #70  
Old 02-27-2020, 04:41 PM
rcsilvmac rcsilvmac is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: NorCal
Posts: 96
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During my short (so far) time with my RV-6A, I really wish it had manual trim...or at least a system that allowed one click to half, one click/or two clicks to full, and one click up.

Hopefully i can see the progress in person in a few weeks James...
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