VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

-POSTING RULES
-Advertise in here!
- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

Keep VAF Going
Donate methods

Point your
camera app here
to donate fast.

  #71  
Old 09-02-2018, 01:42 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,841
Default My take

Thanks for your response. My understanding is the Dynon system has the magnetometer and AHDRS in the same package, but Garmin has them separate. Since I am going with Garmin, my plan is to put the magnetometer in the tail and the AHDRS closer to the high dollar stuff.
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
95% done, 5% left to go
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done (waiting on fiberglass to be done)
Fiberglass 5%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
Reply With Quote
  #72  
Old 09-02-2018, 02:23 PM
Flying Canuck Flying Canuck is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Red Deer, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 585
Default

Yes, I'm coming from a Dynon mindset. I know that regardless of the magnetic interference issue, I didn't have room for my ADHRS in front, but if it had been possible I may well have done it. You will need to cross the center section with your pitot and static lines though as the come in aft of the spar.
__________________
Claude Pitre
RV-9A #91081, C-GCPT
Dynon SkyView HDX, IO-320 and WW 200RV C/S. Flying as of August 6, 2018

Added GPS 175 and authorized for IFR April 1, 2021

Interactive map of all of my flights here
Reply With Quote
  #73  
Old 10-12-2018, 03:52 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,841
Default Fuselage Part 5 Edge Distance

As others have said, the forward fuselage becomes an exercise in edge distance. This means the closeness of a hole to the edge of the aluminum. It is suppose to be 2 times the hole diameter from the center of the hole to the the edge. So a little fancy math gives 1 1/2 hole diameters from the edge of the hole to the edge of the metal.

This first became a problem for the F-623A clips that couple the mid and aft fuselages. In the picture you will see the plans-built version all primed and ready to go. The non-primed are the ones I remade to solve the edge distance problem as evident by the "x" on the part, where the hole would have ended up.



Everything was going great until I arrived at the F-719 installation. These parts are "joggled" to overlap the F-904 bulkhead. My parts didn't fit very well; and the rivet would have been right at the jog. I ended up adapting, as builders often do, and used a second angle piece as shown in the picture. I will round the edges so that these pieces play nice with the passengers.




Following others advice, I was very careful to measure all edge distances before drilling. Some are VERY close. I followed the plans and drilled the holes in the F-713 longeron on the center line, this puts the hole in the F-9101 close to the edge. But there is also a 3/16" bolt that goes thru this longeron for the front tank mount; everything must be dead nuts on. The F-9101 needs to have the edges radius per the plans, otherwise the holes in F-713 are pushed pretty far off as shown in the picture.







So far the kit pieces do fit together very well. I think most of my trouble has been operator error. No more beer for you- Seinfeld
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
95% done, 5% left to go
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done (waiting on fiberglass to be done)
Fiberglass 5%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 04-23-2019 at 12:31 AM. Reason: fixed error
Reply With Quote
  #74  
Old 01-06-2019, 09:03 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,841
Default Rolling, Rolling, gotta keep them rolling

Big day today, I rolled the fuselage canoe. It is just a symbolic step about half way through the fuselage construction.



There was quite a bit of work to get to this point. Painting the inside was the most stressful for me having not touched a paint gun since last century; but in the end, this was not nearly as bad as I had imagined.

Along the way, I did run into a few things that had me puzzled. First off was the holes for the tail fairing. The plans led me to believe all the holes in the rear longeron get dimpled and countersunk. However, others have warned that several of these holes get tapped for screws to hold the fairing. The fairing is part of the finishing kit, so I don't have that piece. Vans was kind enough to send me some pictures of what holes need to be tapped. So I left these un-dimpled. From what I understad, the quick-build kits had these dimpled, so no crime either way. Here are the pictures from Vans showing the holes that can to be left un-dimpled.




Secondly, I had trouble with the jog in the forward longeron fitting properly. Vans approved me using a second angle and some shims as shown below as shown in my previous post.



Lastly, several of the screws in the forward bulkhead need to be countersunk so that the rivets would be flush for the gear mounts. This is how I did that. I also had to use shorter rivets to make it all workout.



There is several rivet lengths that needed to be adjusted. Just had to pay attention to catch them.

Overall, this part of the build gave me the most nightmares, but like eating an elephant, it was conquered one bite at a time.
Now back to building.
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
95% done, 5% left to go
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done (waiting on fiberglass to be done)
Fiberglass 5%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 04-23-2019 at 12:33 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #75  
Old 01-07-2019, 08:34 AM
jcarne's Avatar
jcarne jcarne is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Worland, Wyoming
Posts: 1,984
Default

Congrats on the rolling! It sure is awesome to see something that is starting to resemble an airplane. Also, is that Sponge Bob in the cockpit? haha
__________________
Jereme Carne
PPL
RV-7A Flying as of 03/2021
Exempt but gladly paying!

Last edited by jcarne : 01-07-2019 at 06:35 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #76  
Old 04-23-2019, 12:41 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,841
Default PH Aviation Flap Motor Install

I decided to install the new Flap Motor from PH Aviation. This flap motor replaces the stock Vans flap motor. I like the new one because it has a built in up and down stop, built in position pot to interface with the G3X, has a different motor that may not suffer from grease contamination, and the shaft doesnt rotate so no need for that funky safety wiring.

The installation is a little different than the Vans version.

First off, I made the F767 plate a little longer than the original to make sure the motor support brackets were completely contained on the plate. This eliminates a spacer and also provides more strength for the motor supports. In the picture is the new F767 plate, and the stock F785A/F785B Backrest Brace and the stock F766A/F758 Flap actuator channel.



The new actuator is about 1 3/4" longer so I moved the actuator up higher. In the photo below, the hole to the left is the original location of the top pivot bolt. The added distance is the line on the right. I don't need to move the flap actuator the entire way to the right because I can also lengthen the actuator links to the flaps, if needed.



Here is a picture of the brackets being drilled to the Flap Actuator Channel to use AN470AD4-x rivets. The brackets are per the PH Aviation instructions that came with the flap motor. I used a AN960-416 washer and a little paper shim for spacing. The AN960-416 will become two AN960-416L washers (one on each side) and the paper shim is to ensure the flap motor is easily removeable once the brackets get riveted on. The bolt will become a castle nut to allow some freedom of movement, as in the stock installation.



The assembly was drilled to the seat back brace per the plans.



Here is the final installation of the PH Aviation Flap motor. The rest of the installation follows the stock plans. (If you noticed, I still need to add a hole in the Flap Actuator Channel and add a doubler in order to remove the top mounting bolt)




I have been putting off priming and painting the floors and interior panels. It is becoming a pain to keep working with things cleco'd together. I might have to bite the bullet and get the interior panels painted.
__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
95% done, 5% left to go
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done (waiting on fiberglass to be done)
Fiberglass 5%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 06-09-2019 at 10:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #77  
Old 04-23-2019, 09:00 PM
kentlik's Avatar
kentlik kentlik is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Oregon
Posts: 896
Default

Nice work looks great!
__________________
Kentlik
RV-7A in progress
http://www.imdb.com/name/nm0527486/?
Private pilot, ASEL!
EAA 105 Chapter 7S3
Bi-annual financial contributor

"The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena..." Teddy Roosevelt
Reply With Quote
  #78  
Old 04-23-2019, 10:04 PM
Mark33's Avatar
Mark33 Mark33 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, La.
Posts: 757
Default

Nice work and thanks for the write up.... I?ll be doing the same procedure in the very near future.

Mark
Reply With Quote
  #79  
Old 06-09-2019, 10:16 PM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,841
Default Interior Paint

I have been working on fuselage interior. I have decided to paint the pieces separately as they are installed, instead of waiting till the interior is assembled and then trying to paint with all the nooks and crannies.


This plan has created many headaches; most of the build tasks can not be fully finished since I need to paint prior to installation.


Well I am to the point of installing the interior systems like fuel vents, control sticks, etc.


I cant take it anymore so I decided to paint this weekend.


Wow what a lot of painting. I bought an extra quart just so I would have it. Turns out 2 quarts will be plenty to do the interior. I am using the SW Jet Flex and this paint is totally awesome. I started painting at 10 am with the dew just about evaporated and the sun creeping out. During the session, the sun came out and it got hotter. Then towards the end it got cool and a little damp. The paint didn't miss a beat, I didn't have to change the mix ratios or gun settings in the 6 hours of painting.


Here are all the pieces laying about; tough to find enough space for drying. I still have a few covers to do, the rear bulkhead, and the upper skin of the baggage compartment.


Now onto the gear install. I reamed the gear leg bolt holes and it was no problem. The task I dread turns out most of the time to be straight forward. A big thank you to all those who came before and wrote about it.

I am excited to complete all those tasks and continue final assembly. (And then I will clean the shop)

__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
95% done, 5% left to go
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done (waiting on fiberglass to be done)
Fiberglass 5%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com
Reply With Quote
  #80  
Old 08-09-2019, 12:10 AM
PilotjohnS PilotjohnS is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Southwest
Posts: 1,841
Default Fuse update

After a very fun summer, finally got back into it. Managed to get the main gear mounts on. I am getting started on the plumbing installation. Got the parking brake valve installed using a custom bracket in the same place as the stock bracket.



Went to Oshkosh this year and saw the new nose gear that I will be retrofitting. Looks pretty beefy. But since I will be one of the first ones installing on a -9A, I am a little concerned with where everything on the firewall needs to go. Here is a pic of the nose gear on the RV7A mock up.



On my way out, found this airplane mover. Looks kind of like an RC Tank model from Tamiya. I can make one of those. Guess I need to hold onto my old RC gear a little longer.

__________________
John S

WARNING! Information presented in this post is my opinion. All users of info have sole responsibility for determining accuracy or suitability for their use.

Dues paid 2021, worth every penny

RV9A- Status:
95% done, 5% left to go
Electrical/Panel done
Firewall Forward 95% done (waiting on fiberglass to be done)
Fiberglass 5%
www.pilotjohnsrv9.blogspot.com

Last edited by PilotjohnS : 07-12-2020 at 10:00 PM.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:35 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.