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  #1  
Old 05-26-2019, 09:09 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Schaumburg, IL
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Default FAB Cracking on 10's?

Curious if the 540's have problems with cracking of the FAB top plates. I know the 4 cylinders had issues and I doubled up the 063 plate and have had no issues on my 6A.

Do I need to do something on the 10 or does the stock setup hold up on these without issues? I haven't seen much on this in the 10 forum.

Thanks,

Larry
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2019, 10:00 AM
vic syracuse vic syracuse is offline
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With 1500+ hours on my current RV-10 setup I have not seen any of the cracking that I have seen on the 4 cylinder aircraft.

Vic
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2019, 03:07 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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I added a piece of light angle between the FAB and the engine case to reduce vibration fatigue.

Carl
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  #4  
Old 05-27-2019, 08:18 AM
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Bill.Peyton Bill.Peyton is offline
 
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Location: St. Louis, MO
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I have almost 1000 hours on mine with no cracking. I did reinforce the bottom with a piece fabricated from aluminum. The air cleaner was wearing into the fiberglass.
I think the key survival of the airbox is to make sure the snorkel in front has plenty of clearance and does not in any way contact the cowl from engine torque.
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  #5  
Old 05-28-2019, 05:56 AM
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RV10inOz RV10inOz is offline
 
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1500 hours on ours, no cracking.

The fibreglass part was binned at about 400 hours. Solution was to build a plate alloy air box. No more problems ever!
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  #6  
Old 05-28-2019, 06:01 AM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Related question: On my 0-320 powered RV-6, the filter is designed with a plate to seal the bottom of the filter, instead of using the airbox to seal the bottom of the filter.

Why is the O-320 the only setup to use this design? Seems to me it would prevent some of the cracking and wear issues associated with using the fiberglass airbox as the bottom seal of the filter.
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  #7  
Old 05-30-2019, 09:30 AM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Thanks for the input!

Larry
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  #8  
Old 05-30-2019, 09:42 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Mine hasn't cracked but I just noticed the VA-192A air bypass inlet has actually started to separate from the bottom of the FAB. About half the rivets pulled through the fiberglass. It won't be difficult to fix but I was a little surprised when I noticed it.
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  #9  
Old 05-30-2019, 11:00 AM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Auburntsts View Post
Mine hasn't cracked but I just noticed the VA-192A air bypass inlet has actually started to separate from the bottom of the FAB. About half the rivets pulled through the fiberglass. It won't be difficult to fix but I was a little surprised when I noticed it.
Yep - and if you just make it like it was it will again fail.

Install a 0.032? aluminum plate on the bottom inside of the FAB - at least as big as the outside air filter edge. The fiberglass will be sandwiched between the alt engine air valve ring and this piece of aluminum. The real benefit however will be eliminating the air filter ablation of the bottom of the FAB.

Add some proseal between the plate and on the alt air valve ring rivets.

Carl
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  #10  
Old 05-30-2019, 11:03 AM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
Yep - and if you just make it like it was it will again fail.

Install a 0.032” aluminum plate on the bottom inside of the FAB - at least as big as the outside air filter edge. The fiberglass will be sandwiched between the alt engine air valve ring and this piece of aluminum. The real benefit however will be eliminating the air filter ablation of the bottom of the FAB.

Add some proseal between the plate and on the alt air valve ring rivets.

Carl
Way ahead of ya -- I've already started fabricating an interior ring to do just that. Not sure I understand the air filter ablation issue though. I've never noticed any wear on the top or bottom of the filter or the inside of the FAB.
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Last edited by Auburntsts : 05-30-2019 at 11:08 AM.
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