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  #191  
Old 11-19-2018, 10:56 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,888
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Bill,

I did roughly the same thing with my -7 fuselage. I fit and aligned the leg fairings & wheel pants, too, before ever hanging the engine. I then removed the gear legs, and using stub pipe 'legs', returned the fuselage to a low dolly to ease continued work on/in the fuselage. I eventually hung the engine & did all its hookups with the fuselage still on the low dolly. Don't know if you can do that with a trike, but it worked out well for my taildragger -7.

Charlie
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  #192  
Old 11-19-2018, 11:35 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,708
Default Good thoughts, Charlie.

The gear would come back off easily enough. As long as I don't chop up the low dolly for firewood (and a rear tie-down rolling tripod stand) in the mean time, I guess that's an option.

I'm not sure I could bear the suspense of seeing all that time and money dangling from a ratchet strap ever again.

Might be better off building a platform and steps for easier in-out and leaving her on tires, tires on caster dollies - easy peasy. It's how I did the final stages of the 6A so long ago.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD - 50 hours +
65 years running stock DNA
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  #193  
Old 11-20-2018, 10:31 AM
FLY CUBS FLY CUBS is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: East, Coast
Posts: 8
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Great progress.


I'd really like to see some more pics of your tool cart!
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  #194  
Old 11-20-2018, 10:40 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,708
Default Thanks!

I'll see what I can do.

It's a Ron Schreck design. My copy of his idea. Would never build again without one to keep everything close at hand and semi-organized.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD - 50 hours +
65 years running stock DNA
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  #195  
Old 12-10-2018, 07:45 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,708
Default Seat adjusters cobbled up

Read some descriptions of what others have done, so I thought I'd try my hand at rolling my own.



Hollowed out the underside of a length of 1/2" square aluminum bar stock from Spruce by multiple dado passes on a table saw. Bent where necessary in a vise, by hand. Holes drilled using That Looks About Right engineering and Mk. I eyeballs.



Bushings around the pivot bolt and an elongated hole let the lever arm move fore and aft a bit, so the seat adjuster plunger doesn't get pulled sideways into a bind in the barrel. Surplus wheel pant/axle nut spacers (Van's hex stock) repurposed into handles.



It works! Net added weight is 4.2oz per seat (minus the weight of the T-handles that are replaced.) Don't hate on my epoxy bench - the coating of microballoons shows it's well used - and that I'm too busy building to bother with housekeeping.



Ta-daa!

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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD - 50 hours +
65 years running stock DNA

Last edited by Bill Boyd : 12-10-2018 at 07:47 PM.
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  #196  
Old 12-10-2018, 08:04 PM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,708
Default preview of coming attractions

Say hello to my little friend Bob. Plumb Bob.

Cutting and fitting to reference points in thin air. Don't. let. anything. shift. Drill through fiberglass into landmarks you can barely see - at an angle. This may be the part of the story where I jump off a bridge.

Not sure; those that have gone before say the cowling will also be... "interesting."

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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD - 50 hours +
65 years running stock DNA
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  #197  
Old 12-11-2018, 08:30 AM
Bob Martin's Avatar
Bob Martin Bob Martin is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Charlottesville, Virginia
Posts: 1,278
Default Hi Bill....Bob here

Brings back memories.....not fond either.
At least you don't have wings in the way.
I remember taping Christmas tree lights inside the pant behind the brackets to help find the holes.....worked well.
Also used a 24" level....check, check, recheck....drill....
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Bob Martin
RV-6, 0-360 Hartzell C/S, Tip up, 1200+TT
James extended cowl/plenum, induction, -8VS and Rudder. TSFlightline hoses. Oregon Aero leather seats.
D100-KMD150-660-TT ADI2- AS air/oil seperator. Vetterman exhaust with turndown tips.
Louisa, Virginia KLKU N94TB
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  #198  
Old 12-11-2018, 08:38 AM
Bill Boyd's Avatar
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 1,708
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Everyone at Van's Anonymous support group: "Hello, Bob."

The -10 plans take an interesting approach: drill mounting holes undersize, tap holes in brackets for small screws, try to insert screws, enlarge holes in pants with round file in whatever direction they need to "move," drill final size after filling any erroneous parts of the first hole attempt with flox.

Iterative.

And a veiled acknowledgement of how difficult it probably is to get the holes any kind of right on the first stab at it. I'm looking forward to the challenge, remembering that while I want to get this right, we're not building the Space Shuttle here. A little misalignment of the watermelons probably costs an unmeasurable fraction of a knot, the leg fairings being the more critical factor.
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Bill Boyd

Hop-Along Aerodrome (12VA)
RV-6A - N30YD - Built '98 / sold '20
RV-10 - N130YD - 50 hours +
65 years running stock DNA
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  #199  
Old 12-11-2018, 09:29 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 3,888
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Forgive my flaky memory; has the use of a laser level been discussed for aligning the pants? I found that a cheap HF laser level was quite useful in aligning the pants. I set mine up to paint a stripe on the centerline of the tire tread, then put the pant in place, tweaking the angles to align it with the laser line.

Charlie
edit: should have said it was on a -7; not a -10
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  #200  
Old 12-11-2018, 09:39 AM
rvbuilder2002's Avatar
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 9,660
Default CLARIFICATION..........

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
The -10 plans take an interesting approach: drill mounting holes undersize, tap holes in brackets for small screws, try to insert screws, enlarge holes in pants with round file in whatever direction they need to "move," drill final size after filling any erroneous parts of the first hole attempt with flox.

Iterative.

And a veiled acknowledgement of how difficult it probably is to get the holes any kind of right on the first stab at it. I'm looking forward to the challenge, remembering that while I want to get this right, we're not building the Space Shuttle here. A little misalignment of the watermelons probably costs an unmeasurable fraction of a knot, the leg fairings being the more critical factor.
The process specified in the plans is for a very specific reason, and the reason is not to fix wallowed out holes that occurred during the fitting process.
It also gives extra adjustment options to allow for some level of precision. Alignment does matter. We are talking about way more than a fraction of a knot, depending on how much the alignment is off. It is likely one of the factors in play when an RV doesn't seem to have the same speed that most do.

- The fiberglass on the fairings is relatively thin. Durability would be poor if the screws were only bearing on the thickness of the fairing itself.

- A lot of strength is gained by having the flox fill, capture the perimeter of the bracket.

- The fairings are curved, but the bracket faces that they interface to are flat. If the flox is not used, the fairing will deform with flat spots where all the screws are located.

- The taped holes and screws are used because if you used clecos during the flox placement, they would suck the fairing flat to the bracket and defeat most of the benefit of adding the flox.

- Screws are also used because once the fairing is properly aligned, tolerance stack up usually causes the brackets to have differing amounts of gap at each screw location. With screws, you have some adjustment to account for the different gaps. Once again, if you where using clecos, accounting for this would not be possible and there would be no way to prevent the clecos from pulling the fairing out of alignment.

Bottom line... a lack of understanding of the purpose behind a procedure in the construction manual does not mean it isn't important......
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Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
FAA/DAR
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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