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  #11  
Old 10-24-2016, 06:33 PM
Tony_T's Avatar
Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Lacey, WA
Posts: 1,433
Default Stayed home today

Had to stay home from the hangar today because a technician was here most of the day trying to get our new (but inop) fiber optic internet and tv up and running. So I worked in my shop finishing up the new panel pieces. I'm using the 3M D-NOC vinyl carbon fiber overlay.


I know, it's just faux carbon fiber, but I think it looks killer and putting it on is easier than painting anyway. I hope it stays on, if it peels it will be a disaster. I used the primer and did quite a bit of testing. Without the primer it is hard to pull off. With the primer it is really, really hard to pull off.

BTW, those holes for the autopilot knobs are complicated. The knobs kit comes with a template and instructions for making the holes with the panel installed. I don't see how you guys that cut those holes with the panel in the plane got it done. It is a hard job with the panel on the workbench. I read Dave Gamble's blog on that job before starting it and now I am very impressed with his accomplishment.


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E-LSA RV-12 ULS
  #12  
Old 10-25-2016, 06:41 AM
PilotBrent PilotBrent is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Hackettstown, NJ
Posts: 475
Default

It was a messy job, but if you tape/drape/cover the interior really well, most of the aluminum shavings don't remain in the aircraft...although I'm still removing them from my hair a year later!

BTW, by the looks of your picture, Dynon changed the printing on the front of these panels (don't see the Dynon logo any longer). Minor change, but maybe more was done. You are going to love them Tony.
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  #13  
Old 10-25-2016, 07:45 AM
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DaleB DaleB is offline
 
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Location: Omaha, NE (KMLE)
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Did you end up having to completely pull the throttle/choke/heater cables out to remove the panel? I need to pull my panel out this winter, and I keep hoping for a way to do it without needing to re-install all of the control cables. I know guys have split theirs and come up with other arrangements, just wondering how you did yours.
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Omaha, NE
RV-12 # 222 N980KM "Screamin' Canary" (bought flying)
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  #14  
Old 10-25-2016, 06:41 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
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Location: Lacey, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleB View Post
Did you end up having to completely pull the throttle/choke/heater cables out to remove the panel? I need to pull my panel out this winter, and I keep hoping for a way to do it without needing to re-install all of the control cables. I know guys have split theirs and come up with other arrangements, just wondering how you did yours.
I have been working around taking out the center panel. I'm at the point now where it has to come off, so next time I will be pulling those 3 engine cables out.
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E-LSA RV-12 ULS
  #15  
Old 10-25-2016, 07:45 PM
AeroDog AeroDog is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: New London, NC (near Charlotte), Longmont, CO
Posts: 302
Default Autopilot knobs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tony_T View Post
I have been working around taking out the center panel. I'm at the point now where it has to come off, so next time I will be pulling those 3 engine cables out.
Does anyone know if the center panel shipping now has holes for the autopilot knobs already there? If not, is there a template available from Van's? I can't find anything on the website.

Jerre
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  #16  
Old 10-25-2016, 08:35 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
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Location: Lacey, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AeroDog View Post
Does anyone know if the center panel shipping now has holes for the autopilot knobs already there? If not, is there a template available from Van's? I can't find anything on the website.

Jerre
There is a template part number F-00073. It comes with the knobs kit. The plans section for this is 58.

There is a part number for a center panel with prepunched holes F-00044D-1. When I tried to order it, they said it was not available and I would have to cut the holes in F-00044-1.
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E-LSA RV-12 ULS
  #17  
Old 10-25-2016, 08:51 PM
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Tony_T Tony_T is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Lacey, WA
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Fourth work day at the hangar. Finished cleaning out the old Fuselage and Options harness. The only things left in the forward tunnel are the trim wire cable, the ELT phone cable, and the static tube.


Had to remove the pitch servo so I could work on the wiring on the bench. For some unknown reason 6 years ago I left real short wires on the this servo and the spades need to be changed to a 9 position Molex plug. I think there is enough wire but I could not easily use tools with it in the plane. Ten minutes to get it out probably saves an hour or two messing with it in the plane.


Instrument shelf is nice and clean now and since I was eyeball to eyeball with those engine mount brackets and I went ahead and did the rivet replacement SB. Replace 12 LP4-3 with cherries.



Started prepping the instrument shelf for the new boxes using supplied drill templates.


Yeah, the old center panel is still attached. Next work day I need to pull the engine cables out and take off the center panel. But, for now, it does add stiffness to the instrument shelf while working on cutting the new holes.
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E-LSA RV-12 ULS

Last edited by Tony_T : 10-26-2016 at 08:57 AM.
  #18  
Old 10-26-2016, 09:29 AM
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bret bret is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Gardnerville Nv.
Posts: 2,828
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Looking good! I tried to cut out the five openings for my SV system and did not like how it was turning out no mater how carful I was measuring, cutting and drilling. it was off! so I gave up and called Up North Aviation and had him cut my panel. it was perfect! I mean EXACT!
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  #19  
Old 10-26-2016, 10:03 AM
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petehowell petehowell is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 2,297
Default Di-Noc

Tony,

The Di-Noc Carbon Fiber on my RV-9A panel looks as good now as when I put it on several years ago. It has seen over 100degF to -10 degF in our travels. No peeling or bubbles at all. I could not be happier with it.
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Amateur Plane - RV-9A N789PH - 2450+ Hrs
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St. Paul, MN
  #20  
Old 10-26-2016, 09:42 PM
DaveWelch DaveWelch is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 465
Default Nice and open

Hey Tony,
If you've ever considered moving your voltage regulator to mount inside below the avionics shelf, now is the time. I traced the mounting base onto a piece of thin plywood. Used it to locate and drill mounting holes from the top side.
Dave
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