Nothing personal with me.
I love to swap ideas, training methods, shortcuts and especially new information just out hot off the press from MFG's like Rotax and of course cat skinning. It is just like debate class was back in school. It would be a dull world if we all thought alike and then nothing would ever get done. If you can't be opened minded and learn why live.
I have heard from several friends with RV's that Scott and I are entertaining and we don't even get paid for it.
p.s
Just an FYI
I just had an RV12 owner call this afternoon from northern AZ. with overheating problems. He was using Evans coolant. It is not recommended by Rotax any longer and carries a 20F-30F temp penalty. Better to stay with the now more conventional recommended 50/50 mix with more heat absorbing properties.
I believe Tony T.
and rv3flier have made them. Could you
share the design so I can build one?.
Thanks in advance
Tom O.
After several more attempts to get my prop pitched to get to the 4960-5020 recommended static rpm, I've got it to 5030 with 68.4* on each blade -- (note that the degrees I measured would be different for someone else with differences in the fixture mounted to the digital level, etc.). Unfortunately, I haven't been able to get to fly at altitude as yet due to weather and an intervening trip, but I'll report in a week or so when I get the chance to fly again.
I zeroed the level on the rail as well. No biggie, but since we're not trying to achieve a specific reading but just ensuring both blades are the same, I don't think it matters what we zero to, just that it not change while we're doing our adjustment.
Also, I'm not sure why the measurement needs to be taken on the ascending blade. I found it more convenient to do it on the descending blade because the put the relatively flat trailing edge on top so I could use it with a level to position each blade in the same horizontal position before I took my reading.
You are correct Tom, but the benefit to zeroing is you can record the resultant angle in the log book. Then later if you remove the prop for some reason (Sensenich specifies that the blades be removed for condition inspection....) it would be easy to reset to the original value without the need to have the airplane sitting in the same spot as before, or have any influence by tire air pressure etc., because it is a fixed reference.
...
Thanks very much for your suggestions, guys, - Sink, you win the prize!! we moved it 1.7 degrees flatter, - now the static full RPM is 5020, - Happy with that. We didn't measure the angle to Horizontal or Vertical, so I can't help with that.. The aircraft has not flown yet, - hoping for a good compromise between climb & cruise performance... Cheers, DEAN...
Hi Dave, It hasn't flown yet, -soon,soon! Probably will fly on Tuesday, - just don't know which Tuesday! Cheers, DEAN..
Installed the Sensenich propeller yesterday and used the Sensenich pitch tool #3 to rough adjust the rough pitch as suggested in 47-03 step 7.
Later, the steps on 47-07 were followed. A digital level was zeroed on the canopy rail per the instructions, then attached onto the TOOL-00002 which was hung on the leveled propeller blade at the prescribed location. In order to achieve the stated 71.4 degrees of pitch, the propeller blades needed to be moved quite a bit … should have written it down, but think the pitch was somewhere in the mid 60’s.
My question is directed to those builders who first set the propeller’s rough pitch using the #3 Sensenich pitch tool as per step 7 on 47-03 ... then later adjusted to 71.4 degrees following the new procedure on page 47-07 using a digital level and the TOOL-00002 to set the pitch … did you too discover the Sensenich #3 pitch tool is not even close to 71.4 degrees? Just wondering if I’ve done (or am doing) something wrong.
Happy Building,