RV7 QB - Paul and Kacy - Bay Area
Issues with the instructions/drawings:
-Page 7-9 says "QB note, see DWG14A Section B-B". This is in reference to the flap brace install with pop rivets. There is no note in Section B-B and the only rivet referenced in that section is the LP4. The note is in quadrant E-6 of that drawing and specifies structural steel rivets. Don't be like me and have to drill out every single flap brace rivet.
-W716/W818 Aileron pushrod tube length is too short on the drawing. After calling Van's, the numbers on his drawing didn't match the numbers on my drawing, even though we had the same revision and my info packet is less than a month old. The overall length callout seems to be correct, but the call out for how long to cut the tube is about an inch too short. I only had 1 thread engaged.
-When installing the tailwheel mount, the "keeper rivets" are referenced to a point that only exists on the vertical stab. I was told to get my vertical out of storage, temporarily install it, and then measure off that in order to drill 2 rivets that really aren't required for a quick build kit. If you're attempting to drill these 2 holes without installing your tail, the measurement you're looking for is 19/32 up from the tooling hole. There's a post with a picture if you want more info.
-Page 8-7 says "Notch longeron around 711-C per DWG 18". It should point you to drawing 27A.
Section 8-9 Brake assembly. The drawing was updated almost 20 years with revision 1 that changes the bolt length call out from an AN3-4 to an AN3-5 for the "skinnier" side of the brake pedal. The "dual brake kit" still provides you with AN3-4 bolts for the passenger side. The quickbuild kit provides AN3-5 bolts for the pilot side. So 20 years after updating the drawing, they haven't updated the BOM for the parts. Also, an AN3-5 bolt will require the maximum 3 washers in order to get the length correct.
Section 8-9 Making F769-B angle support for the fuel tank mount. Drawing 38 detail F calls out a countersunk screw, washer and nut for the lower mount. Drawing 28 calls out an AN426AD4-6 rivet in that spot. Van's helpline says the screw and nut is the proper hardware.
For quickbuild kits, the half round pieces that hold F786 J stiffeners in place should not be used when drilling to the skin. Remove them, line everything up and then drill. I assumed they were jigs to hold the stiffeners in the correct location and now I have zero edge distance on the front of those stiffeners. To fix it completely would require drilling out the entire stiffener from the already complete aft upper skin and redoing it. Helpline said I would be fine with one or two having 0.020 edge distance, so I'm torn on fixing it correctly, or possibly adding in a doubler because I assumed extra pieces added to the kit would be helpful and not hurtful.
Section 8-11: "Remove the clecoes on the right side of the F-774 (7112) and F-775 skins and lift them up to expose the F-787 stiffener rib. Fabricate the F-707B clip shown on DWG 26. Clamp it to the F-707 bulkhead and F-787 rib. Drill it to the F-707 bulkhead using the pre-punched holes as a guide. When it is clecoed to the bulkhead, drill it to the rib. You may rivet F-707B to F-787, but do not rivet F-707 until the aft top skins are riveted – F-787/F-707B blocks
access to one of the skin rivets." For quick build people, the rivets it tells you not to install come pre-installed. They're a pain to drill out because you can't get a straight shot at them too, so enjoy oversized oval holes when you drill them out in order to be able to rivet the skin on.
Rudder/Brake pedals: The center pedal support is 0.5" shorter than the side supports. When I drilled my adjustments for the side supports I used the spacing of the bolts as my adjustment, so the front bolt in one location became the rear bolt for the next adjustment. This worked fine until I attempted to drill the center support bracket. Doing this spacing means you'll have holes 1/4" apart from each other in the center because of course that bracket couldn't be the same length. I ordered another side mount bearing block and a new center support bracket. I'll open it up so it isn't closed on one side. This will allow me to have the same center adjustment spacing as the sides I've already drilled.
Held off on posting this because doing the tail kit didn't feel like I was actually building yet. Took delivery of the QB fuse, wings and finish kit today, so I guess it's real now. Plan is an aerosport 375 with SDS fuel and ignition, dual g3x panel, smoke, etc. The blog link is in my signature for empannage build details. Today was unboxing and trying to find a spot to put the massive amount of packing paper they include. Tomorrow is inventory. The goal is to fly this to Oshkosh 2022.
That is a heck-of-a fast start! I am jealous...Good luck!
Made some progress in the last week. Inventory is compete and we're only missing a few minor nuts and bolts. Got to work on the tanks and they're ready to be closed up. Working on the wings now and will have the ailerons and flaps ready to go on by this weekend hopefully. Put an order into vans for some tank sealant and closeout plate for the inverted tank closeout. Talked with our panel guy and he's gonna get the gap 26 aoa probe and the wing harnesses made up and sent out. Got to put in order into spruce for the wingtip lights, nav antenna and other misc things before closing out the wing. Had an interview today and a follow-up in a few days, so 8 hour days may be in short supply for the plane, but if I get the job I can put the engine on order. We realized we were over a month behind on the blog, so we made a few posts tonight and should hopefully be caught up by the weekend. Check it out.
So the blogs only a few weeks behind now instead of months, so go check that out for more pictures and progress. Here's some of my highlights. Its nice to be unemployed right now, because I can dump 6-9 hours a day into building this thing.
Since the last post, we finished up 90% of the fuel tanks. We're planning on an SDS fuel/ignition system, so we added an AN6 return line to the tank. It dumps onto the "bottom" skin just aft of the stiffener behind the pickup. It meets the 4" recommended separation from Van's and shouldn't foam since its 1/8" off the skin. The left tank was already off so we pressure tested that one first and it seems to be good. I sprayed a whole lot of soapy water around that thing and couldn't find any bubbles. The right tank will have to come off next since the main wing spar wasn't deburred well where the tank Z brackets mount. We'll need access to clean those up. When installing the barn door in your upside-downable tank, make sure your rivet squeezers have enough room to reset if the rivet doesn't pop. Lesson learned and they were cheap squeezers, but having to take a cutoff wheel all around a steel tool stuck inside your tank is not a fun morning.
Installed the tailwheel mount, which included cutting away some skin and making some shims. It ended up taking 0.100" shims in order to get the rear faces to sit flat with each other. The "keeper rivets" they tell you to drill are dimensioned off of parts that don't exist yet, so unless you want install your tail just so you can drill these 2 holes, the dimension you're looking for is 19/32" up from the tooling hole. Also, the tailwheel is 20% gloss exterior powder coat. It looks pretty good, so we'll likely get the rest of the pieces done to match that.
Got the pedals rivetted up and bolted together. If you torque the bolts to the recommended values, the pedals don't move at all. These will be literally finger tight and the cotter pin installed. There was some issues with the spacing when drilling the adjustment holes. The center support is 0.5" shorter than the end supports, so you have to be extremely careful with hole spacing or things start to overlap by half a hole. I ended up ordering another end support and will drill it out to fit in the middle of the bars. Then I'll be able to use the same spacing in the center as the sides.
Ran out of room for pictures.... Here's the second half of the post.
Besides that, I've just been working through the instructions. I got the elevator push tube bell crank made up, got the forward top skin cleco'd on and match drilled. I ended up getting all the sub-structure deburred and dimpled, but still have to finish all the prep work on the skin itself. We wanted to be able to remove the floors during annual inspections so we opted to not rivet them in place. I spent 2 days installing over 100 nut plates before running out. There's more on order from spruce and I have about 25 to go. I keep telling myself it'll be worth it in the end. I also got some of the center rail brackets cut into shape for the slider canopy. Spent some time installing some basic wiring in the wings and got the GAP28 autopilot servo installed. Waiting on some wire and connectors so we can get that closed out. Put the mount plate in for the GAP26 AoA probe in as well and got the stall warner mounted up. Wasn't sure about doing both the AoA probe and the warner, but extra things telling you you're about to crash are probably a good thing.
Future plans are to get the skin installed and start work on the tunnel covers and seat backs. Still gotta pull the right tank for a pressure test and to clean up the spar holes for the tank mounts. The left side needed a ton of deburring, so I assume the right side is just as bad.
Also, WE PUT OUR DEPOSIT DOWN ON THE MOTOR!!! We decided to go with an Aero Sport Performance IO-375 200HP with a whole bunch of go-fast goodies added on. I'll make a separate post about that with all the details. It's probably a little early, but its 8 weeks build time and that's a long time for progress when I'm not going into work right now.
Are you sure you have the right material for the seat back brace in your photo above?
That radiused sheet metal looks quite a bit thinner than the angle stock on mine unless you radiused the rear edge for some reason, just curious.
EDIT: was building the seat backs today and realized I need to swap out those angles. The back brace goes between the pieces, not under the flat piece like I thought. So I'll drill out those angles and replace with the .063 angle and keep pressing. Good catch.
Been a while, so here's a few updates. More details can be found on the blog.
Added the spring returns to the rudder pedals so I don't have to worry about accidentally dragging brakes during taxi.
Got the seats made up and installed. Gonna leave these as bare aluminum since they'll be covered all the time anyway.
Installed the GAP28 autopilot servo from garmin. This thing went in so easy its ridiculous.
Cut the hole out of the bottom skin and installed the mast for the GAP26 heated pitot probe. Also installed the stall warner system on the leading edge.
When doing the center rudder pedal brace I found that the center plastic block was 1/2" shorter than the outer blocks. This means really poorly offset mount holes on the aluminum brace. I ordered an extra side block and a new center brace. I drilled out the extra side block so it fit in the middle and now I could use the exact same mount holes as the actual side blocks.
Installed the tail and got the elevator and push rods rigged up. Installed the internal rudder stop (took 2 tries to get it right). Drilled the hole on the side of the elevator for the electric trim servo.
Installed the submarine seatbelt mounts.
Got all the forward cockpit covers in place. Waiting on the Andair fuel valve before I make up the fuel lines, and I'll have to make a center cover becasue I have to mount dual electric fuel pumps plus a pre and post filter on the floor in the cockpit. This is all to support the SDS EFi system that's going in.
Reinforced the armrests. They sit a little taller now, but are so much stronger. We're doing dual side mounted throttle quadrants, so we'll need the armrests to support the weight of those plus your arm. More updates later on how I link the two quadrants together so they work in sync. Flyboys was nice enough to work with DJM, and the timing worked out, for us to get 2 lever (throttle/prop) quadrants in a left and a right setup. I don't have them yet, but I have an idea how this is all going to work together and I think its gonna come out sleek.
Installed all the electric flap linkages and motor.
Bought the rudder cable fairings from spruce and made them look nice. Made up some backing plates that are held in place by the screw and adel clamp that holds the plastic tubing on the rudder cables. Now these are easily removable with just a screw driver from the outside.
Installed the engine mount and test fit both the landing gear legs. The instructions say installing these "can't be easier", except they don't actually fit all the way in, so there's going to be some light sanding and polishing so i can actually get the round peg to fit in the round hole.
Bucked on both bottom wing skins and got them ready for assembly with the fuse.
We test fit one wing at a time to make sure everything lined up. To do this we used the hardware store bolts that I ground down to make some drift pins. The wings go on/off in about 5 minutes with no issues. After we test fit individually, we started one morning early, mounted both wings and worked on getting everything straight so we could drill the rear mount hole. The width between the blue lines is the margin of error for putting the rear bolt in and keeping the required edge distance. They don't give you much extra material back there. In the end we ended up with 0 sweep, 0.9 degrees of incidence on both wings (to help make the flap skins sit flush against the bottom of the fuse), and 1/16" out of square between the left and right wing when measured to a common spot on the fuse.
Once the rear mounts were drilled/reamed to final size, we took the right wing off and now I'm doing the minor work on the left side. We mounted the aileron and rigged everything up so its all in trail with the sticks in the neutral position. Installed the elevator up stop and gave ourselves 30.5 degrees of travel. Van's allows between 25 and 32 degrees.
We hung the flap as the last thing today. Immediate future work will be drilling through the fuse floor to rig the left flap and make sure everything moves freely. I've gotta do some research on how to run the fuel lines with the inverted pick-up and I have to make up the circular vent tubing and install the wing root fairing.
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